Vacuum brake bleeder set up
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[[Pressure Brake Bleeder Set Up]] | [[Pressure Brake Bleeder Set Up]] | ||
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| + | Good post, if using manifold vacuum do make sure you are using manifold vacuum at the sourcing port and not ported vacuum. Mechanics that don’t know the difference; probably shouldn’t be messing with this anyway. If using the manifold for bleeding brakes means the engine is running which is not always safe or efficient, this also mean if on lift you are moving car up and down or using a ladder which is just silly. | ||
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| + | When flat stalling and doing the fronts and the car is on stands, you open the door to start or pump the brakes etc…., you can tweak the frame, especially true on older Plymouths, and GM F-Bodies. I lost count of how many cars I have seen with binding drivers doors, not caused by weak door pins, but by bent frame because of failed previous repairs. | ||
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| + | Tp seal the jar if you make a jar as you describe use a mason jar. The lid removes, easier to drill and seal the fittings and comes with a gasket. | ||
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| + | The biggest problem most mechanics make is forgetting to take the top of the master cylinder. You don’t have to take all the way off, just open the top and loosely set back down. This is also true of the caps the screw off. Setting the top or tops back on loosely keeps dirt from getting in fluid. | ||
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| + | Another easy way to bleed is use clear tube from pet (fish) section. The clear vinyl will snug fit over the tip of the bleeder, you can see the bubbles, and use a horse syringe, 30 – 100 cc. They are disposable. The pet section also have the petcock valves designed to go into the clear vinyl. Its all cheap and disposable. | ||
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| + | You can also remove the vacuum reservoir from a salvage car and us this as a source, clear tubing, petcock and charge this with manifold vacuum when you start, then shut off engine. This way you have portable vacuum without having to keep engine running. | ||
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| + | Always bleed farthest from master first. The master is typically on the driver side (left side) firewall so you would bleed in following order: Passenger (Right) Rear, then Driver (Left) Rear, Stop, come to front, refill Master, then bleed Passenger (Right) Front and then Driver (Left) Front. At conclusion check fluid level, button up tires, torque spec the lug nuts, drop the car, and check pedal position and travel and then test drive. | ||
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| + | For rear drums you will need to reset star adjuster prior to road test, this is easy by driving in reverse and lightly stabbing the brakes. This lets the star adjuster set the proper distance between the shoe facings and the drum. | ||
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| + | I like using the hand vac because it has other uses in diagnosing other vacuum operated items, but I do use a jar like you mentioned. The "jar" that comes with the hand vac is small and plastic and gets filty after constant use. Using a mason jar, I can save the top I made and get a new jar and locking ring when it gets too dirty, or breaks. | ||
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