Rust

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(Rust encapsulation)
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==Assessment==
 
==Assessment==
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Examining rust
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After cleaning off rust of floor pans, wait until it's dark, and put a trouble light under your car. Pinholes in the sheet metal will show up very well in such a situation. Picture of this would be good.
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 +
Jab rusty areas with a screwdriver, scratch awl, or icepick, and see if they go through.
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assessment -- what's the part? can it be removed? soaked? how large? body panel?; how bad is the rust? tricks for assessing
 
assessment -- what's the part? can it be removed? soaked? how large? body panel?; how bad is the rust? tricks for assessing
 
tools/materials/methods selection -- consider time and skill. can weld? how valuable is project? have sandblaster? how much money can spend?
 
tools/materials/methods selection -- consider time and skill. can weld? how valuable is project? have sandblaster? how much money can spend?
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*For cleaning in seams, a spot blaster is recommended.
 
*For cleaning in seams, a spot blaster is recommended.
 
* Take precautions with proper safety equipment (list it here)
 
* Take precautions with proper safety equipment (list it here)
 +
  
 
Need more info on the numerous types of media, which ones are recommended for what, cost, availability, etc.
 
Need more info on the numerous types of media, which ones are recommended for what, cost, availability, etc.
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*'''If you're dealing with a complete vehicle body with rust, have it commercially dipped.'''
 
*'''If you're dealing with a complete vehicle body with rust, have it commercially dipped.'''
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 +
===Soda blasting issues===
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When soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly.
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 +
Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes.
  
 
===Surface rust removal technique===
 
===Surface rust removal technique===
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===Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)===
 
===Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)===
 
If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer.
 
If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer.
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===The fiberglass resin patch trick===
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One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces.
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===Butt-weld or lap-weld===
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Need pros and cons here. Butt-weld is generally preferred.
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 +
Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal.
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 +
===Plasma spray welding===
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With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters].
  
 
===Body filler to bare metal?===
 
===Body filler to bare metal?===
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===Removing pitted rust===
 
===Removing pitted rust===
 +
After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty (or Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal), then smooth and prime again.
 +
 +
A spot blaster is useful for this: silica as the medium. Grinding wheel, die grinder.
 +
 +
Or, repeatedly prime with a high build primer and block sand. You may have to prime/block several times to get the pitted area up to the same level as the surface around it.
 +
 +
Sprayable body filler, called "SlickSand"? From Evercoat? Like a "very high build primer"? Hard, but sands easy.
 +
 +
Let naval jelly sit on the pitted area overnight, if possible. Cover naval jelly with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out overnight.
 +
 +
Heat the pitted area until it glows, and then cool it with oil on a rag. Clean with wax/grease remover, scuff, prime, paint. Just for small areas, because it causes wrinkles and shrink marks.
 +
 +
Product recommendation: Featherfill?
 +
 +
===Removing surface rust===
 +
*How about using baking soda and water?
 +
 +
*To remove surface rust, use naval jelly (jelled phosphoric acid) and steel wool.
 +
#Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot.
 +
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry.
 +
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.
 +
 +
*To convert/neutralize rust
 +
# Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better)
 +
# A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used
 +
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it
 +
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing
 +
# This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution.
 +
 +
 +
===Fixing rust holes===
 +
Grind down all the paint and rust from around the hole. Clamp a piece of copper to the other side (roof flashing, penny, etc.). Then, fill in the hole with a MIG welder. When done, unclamp the copper -- it won't stick to the panel. Also, it absorbs the heat, so the panel won't warp as much.
 +
 +
Rust pinholes are hard to repair with a welder because the "holes" are actually "craters". The hole is the bottom of a craterlike thinned out area of metal.
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 +
Will brass work too?
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 +
What about drilling and patching pinholes?
  
 
===Removing rust in seams===
 
===Removing rust in seams===
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Wire wheel? Brake cleaner? Kerosene? Heat gun? EZ-Off oven cleaner? Mineral spirits? Freeze with dry ice, then chisel out? Wallpaper steamer?
 
Wire wheel? Brake cleaner? Kerosene? Heat gun? EZ-Off oven cleaner? Mineral spirits? Freeze with dry ice, then chisel out? Wallpaper steamer?
 
===The fiberglass resin patch trick===
 
One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces.
 
  
 
===Rustoleum===
 
===Rustoleum===
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Another option is to keep the car low to the ground, and, with plastic sheeting and duct tape, seal the area between car and floor. Leave the rear area of the plastic "tent" open for access. At the front of the "tent", affix a shop vac hose (exhaust). Blast.
 
Another option is to keep the car low to the ground, and, with plastic sheeting and duct tape, seal the area between car and floor. Leave the rear area of the plastic "tent" open for access. At the front of the "tent", affix a shop vac hose (exhaust). Blast.
  
===Examining rust===
 
After cleaning off rust of floor pans, wait until it's dark, and put a trouble light under your car. Pinholes in the sheet metal will show up very well in such a situation. Picture of this would be good.
 
 
Jab rusty areas with a screwdriver, scratch awl, or icepick, and see if they go through.
 
 
===Patch panels===
 
Butt weld or lap weld?
 
 
Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal.
 
 
 
===Preventing flash rust===
 
Especially, if you're not doing all of your bodywork at once.
 
Recommended: Eastwood metal wash,
 
  
 
===Electronic Rust Inhibition===
 
===Electronic Rust Inhibition===
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This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection]? Research this. And: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode sacrificial anode] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode galvanic anode].
 
This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection]? Research this. And: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode sacrificial anode] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode galvanic anode].
 
===Soda blasting issues===
 
When soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. Epoxy primer can peel off. Soda blast medium must be "neutralized". 24 or 36 grit grinder, followed by warm water with soap. Do this with a scuff pad, and rinse thoroughly.
 
 
Some finish companies specifically advise against the use of their products on soda-blasted finishes.
 
 
===Penny trick for filling holes===
 
Grind down all the paint and rust from around the hole. Clamp a piece of copper to the other side (roof flashing, etc.). Then, fill in the hole with a MIG welder. When done, unclamp the copper -- it won't stick to the panel. Also, it absorbs the heat, so the panel won't warp as much.
 
 
Will brass work too?
 
 
What about drilling and patching pinholes?
 
  
 
===Removing rust from chrome===
 
===Removing rust from chrome===
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Removing rust with electrolysis -- research this: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm , http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html , http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html , http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm .
 
Removing rust with electrolysis -- research this: http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm , http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html , http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html , http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm .
  
===Plasma spray welding===
 
With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters].
 
  
 
===Cleaning rusty tools===
 
===Cleaning rusty tools===
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When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed (confirm this).
 
When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed (confirm this).
  
===Rust pitting===
 
After removing all surface rust, treat with metal prep, wash, dry, sand, prime, fill the pits with polyester putty (or Evercoat's Metal 2 Metal), then smooth and prime again.
 
 
A spot blaster is useful for this: silica as the medium. Grinding wheel, die grinder.
 
 
Or, repeatedly prime with a high build primer and block sand. You may have to prime/block several times to get the pitted area up to the same level as the surface around it.
 
 
Sprayable body filler, called "SlickSand"? From Evercoat? Like a "very high build primer"? Hard, but sands easy.
 
 
Let naval jelly sit on the pitted area overnight, if possible. Cover naval jelly with plastic wrap to keep it from drying out overnight.
 
 
Heat the pitted area until it glows, and then cool it with oil on a rag. Clean with wax/grease remover, scuff, prime, paint. Just for small areas, because it causes wrinkles and shrink marks.
 
 
Rust pinholes are hard to repair with a welder because the "holes" are actually "craters". The hole is the bottom of a craterlike thinned out area of metal.
 
 
Product recommendation: Featherfill?
 
 
===Removing surface rust===
 
*How about using baking soda and water?
 
 
*To remove surface rust, use naval jelly (jelled phosphoric acid) and steel wool.
 
#Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot.
 
#Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry.
 
#Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times, and then clean the area. Dry it immediately.
 
 
*To convert/neutralize rust
 
# Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better)
 
# A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used
 
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it
 
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing
 
# This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution.
 
  
 
===Gas tanks===
 
===Gas tanks===
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*[http://www.boeshield.com/ Boeshield]
 
*[http://www.boeshield.com/ Boeshield]
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16408&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=16408 Eastwood Rust Encapsulator]
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=16408&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=16408 Eastwood Rust Encapsulator]
 +
*Eastwood Metal Wash
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1117&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust]
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1117&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Heavy-Duty Anti-Rust]
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]
 
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=258&itemType=PRODUCT&path=1%2C2%2C458%2C467%2C473&KickerID=39&KICKER Eastwood Metal Wash]

Revision as of 15:59, 24 June 2007

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