Rust
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
| − | [[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|300px|A rusted battery tray.]] | + | {{needspics}} |
| − | + | [[Image:Rust at battery tray old versus new.JPG|thumb|300px|A rusted battery tray alongside a new one.]] | |
| − | + | ==What is rust and its causes?== | |
| − | ==What is rust?== | + | Rust is a kind of corrosion/burning -- a decay or breakdown of a material in reaction to its environment. Specifically, rust is an electrochemical corrosion that occurs in the presence of iron, oxygen, and water. Oxygen and water are available in the open air, and iron is the principal ingredient in steel. |
| − | Rust is a kind of corrosion -- a decay or breakdown of a material in reaction to its environment. Specifically, rust is an | + | |
For rust to occur it needs an anode (a piece of metal that gives up electrons), an electrolyte (a liquid that helps transport electrons), and a cathode (a piece of metal that accepts electrons). The more conductive the electrolyte, the quicker rust will occur. For this reason, humid air, salty air, or salty water will accelerate the formation of rust. | For rust to occur it needs an anode (a piece of metal that gives up electrons), an electrolyte (a liquid that helps transport electrons), and a cathode (a piece of metal that accepts electrons). The more conductive the electrolyte, the quicker rust will occur. For this reason, humid air, salty air, or salty water will accelerate the formation of rust. | ||
| Line 13: | Line 12: | ||
Other metals besides iron oxidize, but their oxidation is not referred to as rust. For example, when aluminum oxidizes, it forms a protective, corrosion-resistant coating that is similar in appearance to un-oxidized aluminum. Zinc oxidizes similarly, which is why it is used for galvanizing. Only the oxidation of iron and steel is known as "rust". Why? Because iron oxide takes up more physical space than iron. It's bigger. So, when iron and air combine to make Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, it "puffs out", exposing even more of the original steel to the elements. | Other metals besides iron oxidize, but their oxidation is not referred to as rust. For example, when aluminum oxidizes, it forms a protective, corrosion-resistant coating that is similar in appearance to un-oxidized aluminum. Zinc oxidizes similarly, which is why it is used for galvanizing. Only the oxidation of iron and steel is known as "rust". Why? Because iron oxide takes up more physical space than iron. It's bigger. So, when iron and air combine to make Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>, it "puffs out", exposing even more of the original steel to the elements. | ||
| − | There is another iron oxide also referred to as "rust". It's Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, commonly called "black oxide", or, in mineral form, magnetite. This is the stuff that's left over after using certain products to "convert" rust. Black oxide takes up the same amount of space as iron, so it doesn't bulge it out, like reddish-brown rust, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>. Since black oxide itself doesn't offer much protection against corrosion, it's typically covered up (often with [[epoxy primer]]). Black oxide is an example of a conversion coating, a metal coating where part of the surface is converted into the coating itself, by a chemical or electrochemical process. | + | There is another iron oxide also referred to as "rust". It's Fe<sub>3</sub>O<sub>4</sub>, commonly called "black oxide", or, in mineral form, magnetite. This is the stuff that's left over after using certain products to "convert" rust. Black oxide takes up the same amount of space as iron, so it doesn't bulge it out, like reddish-brown rust, Fe<sub>2</sub>O<sub>3</sub>. Since black oxide itself doesn't offer much protection against corrosion, it's typically covered up (often with [[epoxy primer]]). Black oxide is an example of a conversion coating, a metal coating where part of the surface is converted into the coating itself, by a chemical or electrochemical process. |
===Why do older cars rust more than newer cars?=== | ===Why do older cars rust more than newer cars?=== | ||
| Line 19: | Line 18: | ||
*Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | *Steel used in cars is of a higher quality these days. | ||
*More salt is used on roads these days. | *More salt is used on roads these days. | ||
| + | *Progressive evolution of engineered 'self rinsing' technology, such as strategically designed/placed drain holes to allow rain or wash water to purge body cavities of moisture absorbing rust producing sediments, moreover, robotic assembly methods to lessen the possibility of human error which may compromise the operation of such a design by 'less than precise' assembly. eg; the human worker adds an over-sized glob of body filler next to a fender well drain hole which inadvertently clogs it, causing the fender well to hold moisture laden debris instead. | ||
| + | *Electrolysis due to some older cars (British) having 'positive ground' electrical systems -where the car's electrical system is basically all 'ground wires' instead. (eg: AMC Metropolitan assembled by Austin Motor Company in Longbridge, England -neither were they dipped in a rust preventing primer bath, then they were shipped in ocean salt air to be sold in USA) | ||
=Rust assessment= | =Rust assessment= | ||
| Line 29: | Line 30: | ||
The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | The "best" way to handle surface rust on an entire body is to have it professionally dipped, often at a cost of over $1000. This amount of money may not be available for a specific project, or it may be impractical to invest it. | ||
| − | If you take time to properly | + | If you take time to properly assess your own rust situation, you can choose a well thought-out solution that's "best" for you. |
==Areas to assess== | ==Areas to assess== | ||
| Line 53: | Line 54: | ||
===Tools=== | ===Tools=== | ||
| − | Besides basic hand tools, do you have | + | Besides basic hand tools, do you have an air compressor? Access to a DA sander? Angle grinder with wire wheel? Media blaster? Spot blaster? Blast cabinet? Spray gun? In some cases electric powered tools can be used instead of pneumatic tools. |
===Cost=== | ===Cost=== | ||
| Line 113: | Line 114: | ||
*Rust-Check | *Rust-Check | ||
*[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | *[http://www.evaporust.com/ Evapo-Rust Rust Remover] | ||
| + | *[http://www.safestrustremover.com/ Safest Rust Remover] | ||
*[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | *[http://www.corroless.com/ Corroless] | ||
*[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | *[http://www.kleanstrip.com/special.htm Klean Strip Rust Converter] | ||
| Line 125: | Line 127: | ||
*DuPont Vari-Prime | *DuPont Vari-Prime | ||
*All-Metal | *All-Metal | ||
| + | *[http://tntrustremover.com/ TNT Rust Remover] | ||
===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ||
| Line 131: | Line 134: | ||
When converting/neutralizing rust: | When converting/neutralizing rust: | ||
# Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better). | ||
| − | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing | + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing tannic acid, phosphoric acid or another type of acid should be used |
# Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it. | ||
# Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing. | ||
| − | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the | + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the bristles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint, so, again, use caution. |
Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | ||
| − | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) for rust removal. | + | Don't use battery acid (sulfuric acid) or muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid) for rust removal. Strong acids are dangerous, and there are many more effective chemicals. |
| − | + | *[http://www.ospho.com/ Ospho] Manufacturer description: When applied to rusted surfaces, it resists/retards rust in chemical change on drying to a tough, hard surface ready for priming. | |
| − | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with | + | *[http://rustbeeter.com/ Rustbeeter] Merchant description: A byproduct of the sugar refining process. Probably similar to molasses. Parts must be submerged. Parts soak in a bucket for usually under a week, but as long as several weeks. Food product. Dry powder that gets mixed with water. Non-acidic or caustic. After use, parts are cleaned with dish soap and water, dried, and coated. |
*[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | *[http://www.tinmantech.com/html/must_for_rust_remover_inhibi.php Must for Rust] Merchant description: removes rust and corrosion, non-caustic to skin, needs no neutralizing, primer goes right over it. $28/gallon. | ||
| − | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be | + | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=15974&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=373&iSubCat=374&iProductID=15974 Eastwood Rust Converter] Merchant description: 2-part mix, adheres to bare or rusty steel, and can be top coated with most coatings. 1 gallon each of the 2-part mix is $125. |
*[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | *[http://www.rust-cure.com/ Rust Cure] Merchant description: phosphoric acid-based. leaves a thin film that bonds well with most primers and paints. for pricing, need to see this page: http://rustcure.bizland.com/xwheretobuy.html . | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1124&itemType=PRODUCT Oxisolv Rust Remover] Merchant description: dissolves rust and leaves behind a zinc phosphate coating. Spray/brush/dip. Non-toxic, non-flammable, and re-usable. Must be cleaned off before priming. | ||
*[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | *[http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=11122&itemType=PRODUCT Eastwood Rust Dissolver] Merchant description: acid free rust remover, leaves surface ready to paint, plate, or powder coat. Suitable for engine parts, and harmless to copper, brass, aluminum, solder, lead, plastic, rubber, seals, wood or vinyl. Surface must remain wet for product to work. $40/gallon. | ||
*[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=164 Rust-Mort] Merchant's description: "Converts rust to a black or grayish, hard, insoluble, protective coating". | ||
| − | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be | + | *[http://sem.ws/product.php?product_id=206 SEM Rust-Seal] Manufacturer description: "Transforms rust leaving a tough, permanent, black protective coating. RUST-SEAL can be left exposed or may be top coated with enamels, lacquers or urethanes." |
''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' | ''(Make sure that none of the above count as "encapsulators". Also, what about the converters that leave a "protective film" on the metal. They say that they don't need neutralization, and they don't need to be washed off. Is this as good as cleaning to bare metal, and then hitting with epoxy primer?)'' | ||
| Line 180: | Line 183: | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GS3H3CPLMLbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter application wand] | ||
*[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | *[http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_0_53BC_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_53BC_output=html&PC_7_0_53BC_gvel=6DTWTJQPBBgl&PC_7_0_53BC_vroot=GSLPLPKL4Xge&PC_7_0_53BC_node=GSQJ0YVJLSbe&PC_7_0_53BC_theme=en_US_aad_portal&PC_7_0_53BC_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M Rust Fighter] | ||
| + | *[http://enjenjoesproducts.com/cg020001.html Brownpolymer rust inhibitor long term] -- Merchant description: displaces water on metal parts to prevent rust. environmentally Safe,It's a Cleaner,It's a Polish,It's a Lube, It's a Grease,It's a Protective Coating,Multi Use Polymer Substance | ||
*You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. | *You can make your own basic rust protection coating from 1 part anhydrous lanolin (available from a pharmacy), and 5 parts paint thinner. | ||
*For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . | *For machine tools, this is recommended: http://www.clclubricants.com/waylubes.htm . | ||
| Line 187: | Line 191: | ||
''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' | ''Main article: [[Epoxy primer]].'' | ||
| − | Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over fiberglass, plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. | + | Epoxy primer/sealer is a non-porous finish that is typically recommended as the first basecoat over bare steel. Various epoxy primers can also be applied over [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], plastic, or the black iron phosphate coating that remains after "converting" rust. |
Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. | Epoxy primer is a two-part mix, with a hardener that has to be added before spraying. Body fillers and high-build primers can be used on top of epoxy primer. | ||
| Line 211: | Line 215: | ||
*Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | *Is DuPont's "Quick-Prep" equivalent to Metalprep? | ||
| − | Read this thread thoroughly: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html | + | Read this thread thoroughly: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-else-wax-grease-remover-besides-mineral-spirits-51150.html What to use to remove wax, etc.] |
The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | The following are not to be used as metal cleaners: lacquer thinner, acetone, reducers. Use the product within the recommendations of your product system. Cleaners typically vary as to strength, and time they take to evaporate. | ||
| Line 232: | Line 236: | ||
*Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | *Sand paper. 36 grit to 220 grit. | ||
*Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | *Wire wheel on drill. When the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | ||
| − | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc] | + | *Wire wheel on grinder, or, these discs are considered to be superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc]. |
*Scotch-brite pads | *Scotch-brite pads | ||
*Steel toothbrush | *Steel toothbrush | ||
| Line 241: | Line 245: | ||
*Steel wool | *Steel wool | ||
| − | Tips | + | ===Tips=== |
| − | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- | + | *When using a wire wheel, don't sit in one spot for too long -- the localized heat from friction can warp sheet metal. |
==Methods== | ==Methods== | ||
| Line 288: | Line 292: | ||
====Storing body panels==== | ====Storing body panels==== | ||
| − | Use epoxy primer ( | + | Use epoxy primer (aka "epoxy primer/sealer"), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. |
Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. | ||
| Line 325: | Line 329: | ||
''(How to prevent?)'' | ''(How to prevent?)'' | ||
| + | |||
| + | Vaseline ,push it in between the moldings around the top and wipe off excess.Spray a heavy oil around Landau /opera windows let sit and wipe off excess any little tears should also have a drop of silicone pushed in them to avoid moisture. | ||
===Leaf spring rust=== | ===Leaf spring rust=== | ||
| Line 333: | Line 339: | ||
===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== | ||
| − | |||
| − | + | Have a machine shop polish the journals. | |
| + | |||
| + | May require a regrind to the next correct bearing size prior to polishing depending on tolerances. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Using a decent regular flow of CRC 5.56 or a PTFE type spray and an M3 grey scotchy (then try green scotchbrite if need) rubbed in direction of crank travel, localised to effected area. Mask off area with masking tape to prevent scratching unaffected areas if necessary. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Rust is tough, and large areas vigourously rubbed (mechanically or otherwise) may cause damage to the finish of the journal. Initial contact needs to be with clean CRC rinsed rag, keep the journal area clean and use a light touch, buffing in one direction until the initial rust colour no longer shows. | ||
| + | |||
| + | If sand paper is to be employed, try starting with 2000 grit (no less than 1200 grit), change paper regularly, and keep the strokes light. You are only removing the outer scale, you are not resurfacing the journal just rubbing out rust. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Phosphoric acid localised can help in any pits. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Acids on hardened steels can cause embrittlement so dont leave it on long, only enough to blacken the rust. Afterwards switching to a microfibre rag with a product like Autosol, Blue Magic or even Brasso, you can polish out any minor scratches on the journal. Steel wool usually isn't recommended as it can scratch the journal finish, and it creates fine particles that must be throuoghly cleaned from the crank. If rust is more than 0.005" deep get it resurfaced. | ||
| − | + | Also- | |
| − | + | * Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite pad, and light oil. Rub around the journals in the direction of rotation, not across. | |
| + | * Cut 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper into strips the width of the crank journals. Wrap it around the journal, and secure it with tape. Then, make a strap from leather, about one-half the width of the sandpaper strips. Use the strap on the paper in a shoeshine motion. Finish off with some light oil on the sandpaper. Do a few strokes first, then clean the paper, because the rust will clog the sandpaper. | ||
''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' | ''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' | ||
| Line 346: | Line 364: | ||
Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) | Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) | ||
| − | Need: a plastic tub, | + | Need: a plastic tub, iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. |
Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: | Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: | ||
| Line 358: | Line 376: | ||
====Resources==== | ====Resources==== | ||
| + | *[[Electrolytic rust removal]] Crankshaft Coalition wiki article | ||
*http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm | ||
*http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html | ||
| Line 373: | Line 392: | ||
Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. | ||
| − | Cylinder walls with flash rust: | + | Cylinder walls with flash rust: Marvel Mystery Oil, steel wool, etc. Pitted rusting will necessitate a rebuild. |
===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ===How to de-rust gas tanks=== | ||
| Line 466: | Line 485: | ||
Many modern automotive body panels are galvanized. | Many modern automotive body panels are galvanized. | ||
| − | You can buy cold galvanizing spray ''(list examples here)'' | + | You can buy cold galvanizing spray. ''(list examples here)'' |
==Hydrogen embrittlement== | ==Hydrogen embrittlement== | ||
| Line 472: | Line 491: | ||
==Fiberglass resin patches== | ==Fiberglass resin patches== | ||
| − | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than fiberglass, causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. | + | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. Metal also expands at different rates than [[Fiberglassing|fiberglass]], causing cracks to form, allowing more rust to form in these cracks. |
| + | |||
| + | Using POR-15 (a moisture-cured urethane) and fiberglass cloth will produce a low-cost repair that will bond and flex with the metal. In fact, POR-15 sells a $20 kit to do this very thing. While this method does fill the holes and provides a rust-resistant repair, it does not restore any mechanical strength to the metal like an actual metal patch panel would. | ||
==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ==Do metal etches leave coating?== | ||
| Line 490: | Line 511: | ||
==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ==What about riveting in patch panels?== | ||
| − | Very low-end solution, like fiberglass patching metal. Panel adhesives are a better choice when you can't weld. | + | Very low-end solution, like [[fiberglass]] patching metal. Panel adhesives are a better choice when you can't weld. |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
=Resource dump= | =Resource dump= | ||
'''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | '''Drop links in here if they're relevant to this article. They'll be reviewed, incorporated, and referenced.''' | ||
| − | + | *[http://www.carcraft.com/howto/24544/ CarCraft article on using POR-15 and fiberglass mat for hole repair] | |
| + | *[http://lasertronics.com/ Lasertronics.com] | ||
*[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | *[http://www.theruststore.com/rust_info.aspx articles at theruststore.com] | ||
*http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | *http://www.corrosionsource.com/index.htm | ||
Your Privacy Choices