Remote Ford solenoid for GM- no hot start

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'''Preamble'''
 
'''Preamble'''
  
Have you ever pulled in to the local Stop 'N Go, shut your engine off, only to come out a few minutes later, hit the key and it wouldn't turn over, let alone start? The problem that you are experiencing is called "heat soak". It is a condition where the heat from the engine and exhaust headers heat up the starter housing, solenoid, and wiring by way of convection. If you have another vehicle, a jump start with booster cables will usually crank it over for you. So why does that make a difference? We'll show you how.
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Sometimes a modified vehicle- especially one that uses headers- will experience starter "drag" when the engine is hot, which is akin to having a low battery even though it's fully charged. If the electrical, starting and charging systems are otherwise working like they should, the problem is "heat soak". Heat soak is a condition where the heat from the engine and exhaust system heats up the starter, solenoid, and wiring which causes an increase in resistance.  
  
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The following changes will help this situation by removing the relay function of the starter solenoid to a cooler part of the engine compartment.
  
  
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4. A battery cable is run from the other large terminal on the Ford solenoid to the large terminal on the GM solenoid.
 
4. A battery cable is run from the other large terminal on the Ford solenoid to the large terminal on the GM solenoid.
  
5. Also on the large terminal on the GM solenoid, you have to add a heavy gauge (10 gauge) wire to the "s" terminal on the GM solenoid.
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5. Also on the large terminal on the GM solenoid, you have to add a heavy gauge (10 gauge) wire to the "s" terminal on the GM solenoid, or use a shunt. This can be bought or easily made.[[File:GM starter solenoid shunt.jpg| frame|Solenoid shunt for GM starter solenoid]]
  
 
Now, this is what happens when you hit the start switch;
 
Now, this is what happens when you hit the start switch;
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Always be sure that any wiring doesn't come in contact with the exhaust pipes and use heat socks, available from Jegs or Summit, just in case contact may occur.
 
Always be sure that any wiring doesn't come in contact with the exhaust pipes and use heat socks, available from Jegs or Summit, just in case contact may occur.
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==Other possible cures==
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The wiring has to be in good condition or nothing will help. That means no frayed wiring, wires of sufficient size, no parts store clamp-on replacement battery terminals (the #1 cause of "bad starters"), tight connections, good charging system including the battery, and a good starting system. Grounds have to have direct contact with bare metal and be of a sufficient gauge for the job.
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If the problem remains even after the remote Ford relay/solenoid is installed, a starter heat shield may help. Another option is a "permanent magnet" starter. They're less inclined to suffer from heat soak. Then there's the heavy duty "high torque" mini starters- also permanent magnet type starters.
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[[File:Permanent magnet Chev starter.jpg| thumb|left|200px|Permanent magnet-type 168T Chevy starter]] [[File:Nippondenso high torque Chev starter.jpg| thumb|left|200px|Nippondenso high torque Chevy starter]]
  
 
[[Category:Engine]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]
 
[[Category:Cooling]]
 
[[Category:Cooling]]
 
[[Category:Electrical]]
 
[[Category:Electrical]]

Revision as of 06:22, 18 February 2012

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