Editing How to title a hot rod (section)
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===Texas=== ====Texas bonded title info==== I may miss a step or 2 but the process goes something like this if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years, which is how far back the state's records are kept. You'll need a bill of sale and the following forms from the state: *VTR-275 Request for Texas Motor Vehicle Information *VTR-301 Request for Pencil Tracing of Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) *VTR-34-F Certified Copy of Title Fact Sheet *VTR-130-SOF Statement of Fact *VTR-131 Request to Issue Negotiable Certificate of Title Without Registration (Title Only) VTR-275, Fill this one out and mail it in with the fee of $2.30. This starts the title search with the state, if it hasn't been titled in the last 16 years you will receive a rejection letter. It is no longer necessary to have the vehicle appraised by a dealer or other appraiser, unless the State of Texas is unable to determine a value (which certainly could be the case for a hot rod.) From the [http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/titles/bonded.htm Texas DMV Bonded Title page]: "The Standard Presumptive Value (SPV) from our Web site (www.TxDMV.gov) as the primary source If a SPV is not available, a national reference guide, National Auto Dealers Association (NADA) will be used. If a value is not available either through SPV or NADA, a licensed motor vehicle dealer or insurance adjuster may appraise the vehicle on a form provided by VTR." Accompanying the rejection letter from the Texas Dept. of Transportation is an Insurance company list where you will go and purchase a surety bond. The fee is 1.5% of the value of the vehicle. Fill out form 130, Statement of Fact, then along with all the other paperwork gathered from the above sequence, take it to your county tax office, and in turn they provide you with the bonded title. The bonded title is for 3 years; at the end of the 3rd year you can exchange the bonded title for a permanent one. ====Texas vehicle title and registration FAQs and popular related links==== *[http://www.txdot.gov/txdot_library/drivers_vehicles/forms/default.htm Texas Vehicle Title and Registration Forms] *[http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/titles/title_vehicle.htm TX DMV page on Vehicle Titles] *[http://www.txdmv.gov/vehicles/registration.htm TX DMV page on Vehicle Registration] *Lawrence Auto Title: Commercial Bonded Title Business http://www.lawrenceautotitle.com/continue.htm If your car is 25 or more years old, you can get an "antique" license plate. These are good for 5 years, cost is $70.00 and that is only if you say you bought the car for $1.00. I paid .06 cent on that dollar for sales tax so what ever you say that you buy it for you will pay $0.06 on the dollar for it on sales tax over the $70.00. Your car doesn't have to have safety inspections. Per the law, your antique car is only to be driven to/from a show, or to have work done. But I've never been stopped in 15 years, and you could always say you were going for an oil change or alignment, etc. Another option you have is if your vehicle originally had no VIN. This means no data plate, no frame number, or no original engine number. From what I have been told by the DPS up to 1954 all vehicles were registered with the motor number. GM vehicles did not have frame numbers until 1949, Ford had frames numbers from 1932. This also covers assembled vehicles using a manufactured prefabricated body. For vehicles with no VIN number first go to your local DMV where you normally get your plates. Ask for a Form VTR-68-A Application for assigned or reassigned number. Ask them which law enforcement you need to call to have them come by and inspect the vehicle. The local Anti-Auto Theft Task Force is the normal ones that come out. They will inspect the vehicle and ask you a few simple questions, show them the bill of sale with the PO's name and address. Make sure they check the right boxes. The ones you want checked say, Vehicle assembled from parts for which no ID number was ever affixed to body. And the other says, Unable to determine the true manufacturers number. If they check the box that says, Number assigned by manufacturer for ID purposes has been removed, changed or obliterated, you will have to take a form letter to a judge and prove ownership of the vehicle. Now once you have that done take the paperwork and your vehicle to a regional DMV/DOT office. They may tell you that you don't have to take the vehicle but take it anyway, if there are any problems they can call and have another inspector come over and take care of them on the spot. Once there you'll have to fill out a Form VTR-61 Rebuilt Affidavit. On that you will explain all the modifications done on the vehicle. Make sure you have the name and address of your suppliers, ie engine, body, frame, trans etc, with bills of sale. Then they will assign a VIN number to the vehicle. Cost $2.00. On your way home stop by a public scale and get a weight slip, you'll need it later. Now to get your title and plates take the Form VTR-61,a pencil tracing of the motor number, the Form VTR-68-N Notice of Assigned Number(from the regional office), copy of Form 68-A, photo of vehicle, Form VTR-470 green slip from safety inspection station, weight slip, original bill of sale and proof of insurance to your local DMV office and they will then issue you your title and plates after you pay the taxes and fees. Go online, print out the application for antique plates and fill it out. Go to the DMV or county with this form, your driver's license and insurance for the vehicle. You're done... ====Short cut on older vehicles when VIN was the engine number only==== Take your purchased title, or New York registration, etc. to the DMV (or auto title company) and ask for "title transfer only". (It is purchasing the plates that triggers most of the above.) In a few weeks you will receive your new Texas title. Now go buy the plates. No questions asked, no inspections necessary. Get a vehicle ID plate engraved with the number on the title and attach it to the firewall. Go get a state inspection.
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