First paint job
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Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color, they will mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and tiger stripe if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to move the "dry spot" around. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. Remember anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. I recommend this ANYTIME you paint. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. FOLLOW the instructions to the letter. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. You, however, as an amature, are not. Do not re-invent the wheel. | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color, they will mottle (have blotches of dark and light areas) and tiger stripe if sprayed incorrectly. The key to spraying metallic paint is to move the "dry spot" around. For example, spray one coat one direction, then the next coat in the direction 90 degrees to the first coat. Overlapping the coats up to 75% is another key to good metallic finishes. Remember anytime that the paint moves the metallic does as well, so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot. With metallic always use the suggested reducers and mix the entire batch to be sprayed at the same time. I recommend this ANYTIME you paint. DO NOT play mad scientist/chemist. FOLLOW the instructions to the letter. The engineers at the paint companies spend millions on R&D, so they are already sure of the results you will get by mixing the product any given way. You, however, as an amature, are not. Do not re-invent the wheel. | ||
| − | + | ==Brian Martin's "Moving the Dry Spot" technique== | |
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| − | + | To prevent having a drier area at each of the seams, it is advised to "move the dry spot around". This technique is especially useful for fast-drying finishes, or for paint jobs with many coats of color. However, it can also be used for primers, sealers, colors and clears, urethanes, epoxies, and enamels. For more information, see Brian Martin's article in this Hotrodders Bulletin Board forum discussion: [http://hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html Tip of the Day #30]. | |
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| − | + | == How to mix and spray Lacquer == | |
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| − | + | Lacquer has been used for many years in the hobby, and is used in a few restorations where the correct paint type will award/deduct points from a car. HOWEVER, due to V.O.C. requirements, the use of lacquer paints are becoming less and less welcome in most areas, and is actually illegal in most metropolitan areas. It is old technology, and is pretty much a dinosaur of the paint world. | |
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| − | + | There were and still are many good looking lacquer paint jobs out there. One of the pros is that it dries extremely hard with a quick drying time. THIS IS A FALSE MYTH. Lacquer never fully dries. If you spill gasoline on it, or many under-the-hood chemicals as used in the hobby, you will ruin your lacquer paint. Urethane enamel has replaced lacquer for a very good reason. It is much more durable. AND is more enviromentally friendly than lacquer. Waterborne is the next wave of technology to lower painting emissions even further. | |
| − | + | You WILL NEED to sand and buff the whole project to get a smooth, shiny finish. If somebody is helping you spray it, they can know that modern lacquers will basically spray the same as the old lacquers. If you spray lacquer clear; the clear coat, (as long as it is a quality product) will be easier to control. | |
| − | + | You will need at least the same amount of thinner as you do paint to do a lacquer paint job. | |
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== How to mix and spray Acrylic Enamel == | == How to mix and spray Acrylic Enamel == | ||
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