Fat-fendered Ford battery tray
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==Preamble== | ==Preamble== | ||
| − | In most of the older pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. The battery used then was usually a small 8X10X10 six volt battery or a long type 4X16X10 battery. Access to the battery was usually limited and | + | In most of the older pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. The battery used then was usually a small 8X10X10 six-volt battery or a long type 4X16X10 battery. Access to the battery was usually limited and at best, very trying to remove or service the battery. Anyone rebuilding a car of this vintage will often opt for a bigger 12-volt battery which offers more CCA (cold cranking amps). But where do you put it? Generally, the 'new' battery is installed in the trunk or mounted somewhere under the frame and 'long' cables are then run up to the front engine compartment to the starter and fuse panel. Here is an alternative placement for the battery that is not only close to the starter and fuse panel, but uses up some of that dead wasted space we never think about. This is the large area behind the fat fenders and front wheels of most 40's vehicles. A properly installed battery and tray can be installed in this location and function just like an under hood or in-trunk battery. |
==How to build it== | ==How to build it== | ||
| − | Begin by taking a small cardboard box much the same size as | + | Begin by taking a small cardboard box much the same size as that battery that you will be using. It is easier to handle than a regular 40-pound battery with clothing-eating acid spewing from it when dropped. Even using a box an inch or so larger will give you additional clearances for cables and hold-downs. Place the box against the frame area and try to imagine what kind of bracket you will have to build to get it to stay there. You can use duct tape to secure the box in place while you play with flexible steel strapping (usually found on packing crates) that you can shape into 90 degree bends to hold up the box (battery). |
The location should be a place where you can access the battery for servicing or removal, a place where mechanical damage from flying debris, i.e. stones, etc. is at a minimum or a accessory shield can be installed to protect the battery casing. The frame of the vehicle should be close to the location as it is one of the strongest mounting points that can be offered. | The location should be a place where you can access the battery for servicing or removal, a place where mechanical damage from flying debris, i.e. stones, etc. is at a minimum or a accessory shield can be installed to protect the battery casing. The frame of the vehicle should be close to the location as it is one of the strongest mounting points that can be offered. | ||
| − | What about water and dampness? Most batteries manufactured today are sealed maintainance-free units and are 99% sealed against outside water sources. Cable connections should be coated with dielectric grease to seal out corrosion. | + | What about water and dampness? Most batteries manufactured today are sealed maintainance-free units and are 99% sealed against outside water sources. Cable connections should be coated with dielectric grease to seal out corrosion. In addition, you can put your battery in a plastic marine battery case, which will provide both waterproofing and protection from mechanical damage. |
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| + | If you are using a plastic marine battery case, then use that instead of the cardboard box to find your location. | ||
You can use cardboard to form a tray to hold the battery and by making a 90 degree bend in the cardboard, you can run it up along side of the frame and use the frame to stabilize and mount the tray to. You can use nuts and washers, brackets, etc to extend out from the frame to give the tray a solid mounting surface. | You can use cardboard to form a tray to hold the battery and by making a 90 degree bend in the cardboard, you can run it up along side of the frame and use the frame to stabilize and mount the tray to. You can use nuts and washers, brackets, etc to extend out from the frame to give the tray a solid mounting surface. | ||
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==What should it me made out of?== | ==What should it me made out of?== | ||
| − | + | You can maketrays out of 1/8 steel plate backed with 1/4 angle iron and flat stock, as well as stainless steel and aluminum. What you use will depend on what you have around and the equipment that you have to bend it and fasten it together. The box that you see here was made using a six inch vise and angle iron. Stainless steel makes a nice, bright, maintenance-free battery tray. Aluminum is easy to bend and drill, but requires a TIG to weld on. Combinations of any of these metals can readily be used and will make a nice strong tray. | |
==Pictorial build and installation in '40 Ford pickup== | ==Pictorial build and installation in '40 Ford pickup== | ||
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