Bulletproof cooling system
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[[Image:Cross_flow_radiators.gif|frame|Cross flow radiators.]] | [[Image:Cross_flow_radiators.gif|frame|Cross flow radiators.]] | ||
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The purpose of the radiator is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible, help it maintain optimum temperature, and remove excess heat when required. "Radiator" is essentially just another name for a heat exchanger, whereby combustion temperatures up to 4500 degrees are transferred to the cooling system of the engine block and taken outside the block via flexible rad hoses to be exposed to the cooling force of air through the rad core, thus reducing the temperature of the coolant before returning it to the engine block. There are two restrictions in the system. One is the thermostat, which restricts flow and holds heat in the engine until warmed up, and the other is the rad core tubes. The rad tubes have to be of sufficient size so as to allow the coolant to flow through in an unrestricted manner, but also able to 'scrub off' BTU's or heat; which is based on the shape of the tube and the convection of heat away from the coolant to the outside air. A wide flat tube will expose more surface to the outside flow of air than a narrow tube . The reason for this is more surface area is exposed to cooling. Look at the pictures located below and see why that is. | The purpose of the radiator is to get the engine up to operating temperature as quick as possible, help it maintain optimum temperature, and remove excess heat when required. "Radiator" is essentially just another name for a heat exchanger, whereby combustion temperatures up to 4500 degrees are transferred to the cooling system of the engine block and taken outside the block via flexible rad hoses to be exposed to the cooling force of air through the rad core, thus reducing the temperature of the coolant before returning it to the engine block. There are two restrictions in the system. One is the thermostat, which restricts flow and holds heat in the engine until warmed up, and the other is the rad core tubes. The rad tubes have to be of sufficient size so as to allow the coolant to flow through in an unrestricted manner, but also able to 'scrub off' BTU's or heat; which is based on the shape of the tube and the convection of heat away from the coolant to the outside air. A wide flat tube will expose more surface to the outside flow of air than a narrow tube . The reason for this is more surface area is exposed to cooling. Look at the pictures located below and see why that is. | ||
| − | [[Image:Tube_sizes.gif|frame|Tube sizes.]] [[Image:Alum_vs_copper_brass.gif|frame]] | + | [[Image:Tube_sizes.gif|frame|Tube sizes.]] [[Image:Alum_vs_copper_brass.gif|frame. Aluminum vs. copper/brass]] |
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| − | == | + | ==Aluminum radiators== |
| + | If you are designing/redesigning a cooling system for your car, the utilization of the aluminum radiator is the best overall product on the market for the dollar. This is not to say that the radiators made from copper and brass are not good, and if you have one that works, don't go out and change for the sake of change. But, the choice of aluminum media will outperform their copper counterparts quite easily even though copper is a better conductor of heat. What is a lesser conductor of heat (aluminum) makes up with more surface area available for heat exchange. A 1.25" two-row aluminum radiator will cool just about anything up to 450hp. If designed correctly, it will outperform most 4 or 5 row copper brethren. Not only does aluminum offer a great deal more surface area for cooling, but also has a more rigid structure, making for a less likely leaky situation. Also to the credit of this technology and the fact that more modern cars are implementing aluminum, more and more vendors are competing in this product line making for very attractive pricing. | ||
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| + | ===Sacrificial anode in aluminum radiators=== | ||
When running an aluminum radiator or any aluminum parts in contact with the water jacket, make sure to run a sacrificial anode (usually zinc) to prevent the electro-displacement of the aluminum. This will save the aluminum parts, in short. | When running an aluminum radiator or any aluminum parts in contact with the water jacket, make sure to run a sacrificial anode (usually zinc) to prevent the electro-displacement of the aluminum. This will save the aluminum parts, in short. | ||
| − | == | + | ==Coolant== |
| − | + | Sometimes the key to a bulletproof system is what you put in it and how. You can't just open the rad cap and dump anything in it. It is recognized that a 50-50 mixture of water and antifreeze is an approved OEM mixture that should be adequate for most vehicles. | |
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| − | Sometimes the key to a bulletproof system is what you put in it and how. You can't just open the rad cap and dump anything in it. It is recognized that a 50 - 50 mixture of water and antifreeze is an approved OEM mixture that should be adequate for most vehicles. | + | |
| − | + | Water is the basis of coolant in most systems. Can the water that you start with have a detrimental affect on your cooling system? Yes! Water is not necessarily clean and free from contaminants. Water can contain acid, alkaline, foreign matter, etc. These contaminants can combine with the metal within the cooling system and contribute to plugging or slowing down the flow within the system. Today, you will find about 10 different antifreeze products and about 30 different additives for your cooling system. WHY do you need them? Good question! | |
| − | Your OEM dealer and manufacturer want you to use an approved 50 - 50 mix of antifreeze and water because they know and approve the source of that water and the glycol contained in that gallon jug. They know that the formula for that mix will not harm the internal metals or seals within that engine's cooling system. They also know from past experience and warranty replacement that the ditch water and pond scum that you mixed with 30 known additives that you put in your cooling system has cost them (and yourself) billions of dollars over the years. Engineers have formulated cooling system cocktails for the most elaborate machines on earth, so why not use them? | + | Your OEM dealer and manufacturer want you to use an approved 50-50 mix of antifreeze and water because they know and approve the source of that water and the glycol contained in that gallon jug. They know that the formula for that mix will not harm the internal metals or seals within that engine's cooling system. They also know from past experience and warranty replacement that the ditch water and pond scum that you mixed with 30 known additives that you put in your cooling system has cost them (and yourself) billions of dollars over the years. Engineers have formulated cooling system cocktails for the most elaborate machines on earth, so why not use them? |
| − | When you are refilling your cooling system, the rad cap is open, and you pour directly into the system until it is full. Full means | + | When you are refilling your cooling system, the rad cap is open, and you pour directly into the system until it is full. "Full" means a level one inch less than the cap height. The engine should be warmed up and running at a fast idle of 1000 to 1200 rpm's. The engine is run until you can see movement in the rad and a slight steam rises from the open cap outlet. If you have a gauge, verify that the temperature is at operating temperate of 160 to 195 degrees. The cap is placed on the rad outlet and turned until tight with the arrows aligned to point at the overflow outlet. The overflow bottle should be within its limits which is usually marked on the container walls. |
When you are adding to the system, do not open the rad cap, add directly to the reservoir tank. | When you are adding to the system, do not open the rad cap, add directly to the reservoir tank. | ||
| − | If you have ever watched a pot of water start to boil on the stove, you will know that tiny air bubbles start to rise from the bottom of the pot as the heat is raised | + | If you have ever watched a pot of water start to boil on the stove, you will know that tiny air bubbles start to rise from the bottom of the pot as the heat is raised. Adding a water wetter to your coolant will break the surface tension and provide a greater contact area for the coolant. A wetting additive can decrease the temperature up to 20 degrees F. |
| − | + | On a closed system with an overflow bottle, that the system should be filled to the top when it is at operating temperature. One of the advantages of this type of system is to reduce oxidation by eliminating all air from the system. Hence it then becomes a closed system. Why leave a head of air in the top of the radiator when you don't have to? Entrained air is sometimes difficult to get out of the system. | |
| + | ''(confirm and expand on above two paragraphs)'' | ||
==See also== | ==See also== | ||
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