Building a new shop

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(New page: '''BUILDING A NEW SHOP''' If you ever thought about building a new shop, this article will help guide you through some of the thought process that goes into planning and building a new sh...)
 
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'''BUILDING A NEW SHOP'''
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If you ever thought about building a new shop, this article will help guide you through some of the thought process that goes into planning and building a new shop.
  
If you ever thought about building a new shop, this article will help guide you through some of the thought process that goes into planning and building a new shop. All ideas contained in here are subject to the Town Planning scheme in your local jurisdiction, climatic and economic conditions of your area. The final choice is totally up to you and your pocketbook.  
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All ideas contained in here are subject to the Town Planning scheme in your local jurisdiction, as well as climatic and economic conditions of your area. The final choice is totally up to you and your pocketbook.  
  
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==Site selection==
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So where 'ya going to put it? Grab yourself a survey certificate with a drawing of your property lines in relation to your house location. Couple this up with the building code from your area, which will tell you things like maximum site coverage, distance for side yard clearances, max. heights, etc. Get a piece of graph paper along with a three sided architect's ruler with different scales. Using standard 1/4 inch graph paper, re-draw the lot size along with the structures on the property using the measurements found on the survey drawing. If you start off with a 8 1/2 X 11 inch page, you can then have this blown up at the local Kinko's to a size that you feel more comfortable with.
  
SITE SELECTION
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Your next stop is to have the local utilities company come down and stake out the location of existing underground lines for power, gas, water, and phone/cable, and plan the placement of the additional services to the new building. Transfer these measurements to your plot plan drawing and color code each utility to make them distinctive.
  
So where 'ya going to put it? Grab yourself a survey certificate with a drawing of your property lines in relation to your house location. Couple this up with the building code from your area, which will tell you things, like, maximum site coverage, distance for side yard clearances, max. heights, etc. Get a piece of graph paper along with a three sided architect's ruler with different scales. Using standard 1/4 inch graph paper, re-draw the lot size along with the structures on the property using the measurements found on the survey drawing. If you start off with a 8 1/2 X 11 inch page, you can then have this blown up at the local Kinko's to a size that you feel more comfortable with.
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Now, you're ready to decide what size structure you need. On a separate sheet of paper, draw out different sizes of buildings using the same scale size as your plot plan, and cut out outlines. Try different outline placements and shapes. If you use heavier construction paper, they will lay flatter and stay in place as you adjust them on your plot plan. You can even draw in existing or future landscape features so that you will be able to look at the total picture of your project.
 
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Your next stop is to have the local utilities Company come down and stake out the location of existing underground lines for power, gas, water, and phone/cable, and plan the placement of the additional services to the new building. Transfer these measurements to your plot plan drawing and color code each utility to make them distinctive.
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Now, your ready to decide what size of structure you need. On a separate sheet of paper, draw out different sizes of buildings using the same scale size as your plot plan and cut out outlines. Try different outline placements and shapes. If you use heavier construction paper, they will lay flatter and stay in place as you adjust them on your plot plan. You can even draw in existing or future landscape features so that you will be able to look at the total picture of your project.
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Here are some considerations to make when doing your site layout:
 
Here are some considerations to make when doing your site layout:
  
1. Place the building so that it compliments the property in function and form, enhances property value.
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*Place the building so that it complements the property in function and form, and thus enhances property value.
 
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*Take into account atmospheric conditions, ie: prevailing winds, direction of sun/shade, rain/snow accumulation, etc.
2. Take into account atmospheric conditions, ie. prevailing winds, direction of sun/shade, rain/snow accumulation, etc.
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*By all means, build what you can afford, but allow for future expansion, temporary use, and deletion or change of use.
 
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*Talk with contractors, building reps, tradesmen, and estimators. Allow them to come out, view your site, and listen to your expectations.
3. By all means, build what you can afford, but allow for future expansion, temporary use, and deletion or change of use.
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*Call in a survey crew. The surveyor will not only assist you in building placement, but will take 'shots' on the contours of the site, set the grade height of the slab, provide you with a drainage scheme to complement the property, and do a 'cut and fill' plot plan of the overburden (organic material) to level the building site.
 
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*Seek professional help. Talk to your banker or financial institution to set up a building loan and payment account. Talk to your lawyer about contracts and legal issues.
4. Talk with contractors, building reps, tradesmen, and estimators. Allow them to come out, view your site and listen to your expectations.
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*Make sure you obtain permits for all phases of work from municipal officials BEFORE starting or signing anything.
 
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5. Call in a survey crew. The surveyor will no only assist you in building placement, but will take 'shots' on the contours of the site, set the grade height of the slab, provide you with a drainage scheme to compliment the property, and do a 'cut and fill' plot plan of the overburden (organic material) to level the building site.
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6. Seek professional help. Talk to your banker or financial institution to set up a building loan and payment account. Talk to your lawyer about contracts and legal issues.
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7. Make sure you obtain permits for all phases of work from municipal officials BEFORE starting or signing anything.
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Foundation and Floor
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A outer perimeter of rebar is a must to tie all corners of the slab together. When any openings are encountered, you should double the rebar and thicken the width and depth of the concrete and pour a grade beam to help bear the weight and anchor the side posts of opening to the slab. Wire mesh for re-enforcing the slab should be tied to the perimeter rebar and rebar 'chairs' should lift the rebar to float in the middle of the concrete slab. Do not rely on someone lifting the wire mesh as you are pouring. Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh and conduits should be tied to verticle staking to maintain proper heights. In floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. Personally, I like a curb around the perimeter of my building rather than a slab. The reason being that the curb will keep out moisture, insects, etc and by varying the height, can make a good retaining wall to keep vehicles in the building. (Inside joke, always check the gear shift before starting the engine! 'Nuff said.) When pouring floors always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to out door openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment.
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==Foundation and floor==
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An outer perimeter of rebar is a must to tie all corners of the slab together. When any openings are encountered, you should double the rebar and thicken the width and depth of the concrete and pour a grade beam to help bear the weight and anchor the side posts of opening to the slab. Wire mesh for re-enforcing the slab should be tied to the perimeter rebar and rebar 'chairs' should lift the rebar to float in the middle of the concrete slab. Do not rely on someone lifting the wire mesh as you are pouring.
  
Walls and Roofs
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Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete.
  
Eight feet should be minimum wall height. Ten foot will allow more room for lighting, overhead storage, ventilation, vehicle size, and equipment and its use. Twelve feet is minimum height for using a auto lift. Sixteen feet is minimum if you are planning on a mezzanine for storage and office areas.
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Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of my building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment.
  
Wall styles will very from post and beam, standard framing, concrete block and steel. Everyone has an opinion and it is usually the depth of your pockets that dictate what you build. Try and make the walls rhyme in with the decor of the surrounding area. A red barn is quaint but not in 'Yuppyville'!, blend in.
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==Walls and roofs==
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Eight feet should be the minimum wall height. Ten foot will allow more room for lighting, overhead storage, ventilation, vehicle size, and equipment and its use. Twelve feet is minimum height for using a auto lift. Sixteen feet is minimum if you are planning on a mezzanine for storage and office areas.
  
Roof coverings can be asphalt or fiberglass shingle, steel sheet or wood shakes. Again, its your pocketbook. Most people should put up the best roof that they can afford because you only want to go up there once.
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Wall styles will vary from post and beam, standard framing, concrete block and steel. Everyone has an opinion and it is usually the depth of your pockets that dictate what you build. Try and make the walls rhyme in with the decor of the surrounding area. A red barn is quaint but not in "Yuppyville". Blend in.
  
Insulation
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Roof coverings can be asphalt or fiberglass shingle, steel sheet or wood shakes. Again, it's your pocketbook. Most people should put up the best roof that they can afford because you only want to go up there once.
  
It really doesn't matter if you live in the colder or hotter part of the country, insulation will benefit either way. Keeping out the heat from a Texas sun or keeping in the heat during a Canadian winter, insulation will do its part in your construction of your building. Think about this too, insulation will also deaden the noise that you produce in your shop. Remember the last time you used an air chisel to remove that rusted body panel at 11:30 pm? or the sound of the last thunderstorm that pasted over your steel roofed shed! Try using as much insulation as you can afford. It will pay you back double or triple over the original cost you invested. Don't forget the vapor barrier, at least 6 mil plastic. Seal the electrical outlet boxes on the outside wall to prevent moisture infiltration into the insulation and wall section.
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==Insulation==
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It really doesn't matter if you live in the colder or hotter part of the country, insulation will benefit either way. Keeping out the heat from a Texas sun or keeping in the heat during a Canadian winter, insulation will do its part in your construction of your building. Insulation will also deaden the noise that you produce in your shop. Remember the last time you used an air chisel to remove that rusted body panel at 11:30 pm? Or the sound of the last thunderstorm that pasted over your steel roofed shed! Try using as much insulation as you can afford. It will pay you back double or triple over the original cost you invested. Don't forget the vapor barrier, at least 6 mil plastic. Seal the electrical outlet boxes on the outside wall to prevent moisture infiltration into the insulation and wall section.
  
 
Doors and Windows
 
Doors and Windows

Revision as of 18:43, 9 May 2008

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