How to rebuild an engine

Revision as of 13:07, 13 January 2011 (edit)

205.174.143.2 (Talk)

← Older edit

Revision as of 16:27, 13 January 2011 (edit) (undo)

Jon (Talk | contribs)

m (Reverted edits by 205.174.143.2 (Talk) to last revision by Crosley)

Newer edit →

Line 1:

−

What tools are needed?

+

== Requirements ==

+

'''

+

====What tools are needed?====

The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances.

Line 9:

Line 13:

you will also need a decent engine stand, It will make your build easier to support the engine keeping it from the ground, And also helps in tearing the engine down and also keeping the engine clean at assembly time.

−

Selecting ~~toolsr~~ each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:

+

====Selecting tools====

+

For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:

*Approximately how much do the tools cost?

Line 62:

Line 67:

Remember, almost every modification for performance will alter fuel consumption and/or reliability. A competition engine is not built to perform on the street as a daily driver. The more radical the modification(s)...the more maintenance is required. Use common sense and make your modifications compatible (carb, heads, cam, etc).

+

===Mild===

+

The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant are Small Block Chevy's, Small Block Fords, and Small Block Mopar's. Any of these three engines are used widely in the hot rodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the Small Block Chevy's, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Small Block Mopar fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy would and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these 3 engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these 3, they are the most popular.

+

===Wild===

+

A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big 3 American car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 Chevy Big Block motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines.

+

== Locating an engine to rebuild ==

+

This section should cover the basics of where to find a potential candidate for an engine rebuilding project. How to search junkyards, classified ads, the internet, etc.

+

Locating an engine can be as easy as ordering a shortblock crate engine from Edelbrock on the phone, or removing an old rusty flathead from a totaled car in a junkyard.

+

===Classifieds===

+

Probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing.

+

Another good way of finding the perfect engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to [[rust]], but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rear-end. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which a lot of us just don't have). A disadvantage to buying from the classifieds: you often don't get to hear the engine run (as it's pulled already in a majority of cases).

+

===Scrapyards===

+

Scrapyards can be a great resource for locating missing car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Scrapyards are full of cars from the 1970's and 80's waiting to donate their mechanical heart. Scrapyard shopping might be a good idea in order to find the best prices in town. A majority of the cars built during the past 3 decades came equipped with a V8 engine. Now a lot of these old cars are forgotten and thrown into scrapyards.

+

===Networking===

+

This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classifieds are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water meter readers, electrical meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen.

+

Most Chevy, Dodge and Ford trucks from the 70's and 80's came equipped with carbureted (non-EFI) V8's perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, junkyards can be a very rough places in which to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal.

+

Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit.

+

When choosing an engine, engines with thick amount of surface rust, critical missing parts or a obviously cracked block or heads should be completely avoided . If you can, pick an engine in a car that retains its' hood. A car that has been sitting out in the yard without a hood or a carburetor will have rust built up inside the cylinders from the rain pouring into the engine. The more accessories and parts that are remaining on the engine, the better for future use. Testing the engine to see if it turns over by turning over the crankshaft with a long breaker-bar type wrench is a good way of determining whether the block is frozen or rusted solid. If an engine doesn't turn over, leave it be.

+

== Acquisition ==

+

This section should cover what to do after you've decided what engine you're going to use. It might need to be removed, hauled in your vehicle, shipped, etc.

=== Removal ===

Line 86:

Line 122:

*Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also).

*If you raise the vehicle USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED!

+

=== Transportation ===

+

How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.

+

An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation. If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine. Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down.

== Dis-assembly==

Line 140:

Line 181:

==== What to expect to pay for machining work ====

It really varies by where you get the work done and what you actually get done. An average machine shop charges around 90 dollars per hour. A simple head grinding could take as little as a half hour whereas a major bore and hone could take a few hours.

+

=== How to select a machine shop ===

+

Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality.

+

Your machine work is only as good as the machinist performing the work! Meet and talk to the machinist that will be working on your engine...establish a rapport...be his friend as the future life of your engine is in his hands!

+

Always interview the machine shop that is going to do the work on your engine. See that the shop has a complete line of rebuilding equipment to do the job that you want done. Check out the equipment that they have. Here's a link to what equipment you expect to see. http://www.allstates.com/Engine.html Beware of shops that just 'front' the actual work for other machine specialty shops. Cut out the middle man, do your homework and take your heads directly to the shop that can grind and fit your valves, AND flow your heads on their flow bench to see the improvement and benefits of their head work.

+

Best words of advice, '''DO YOUR HOMEWORK!'''

+

Also, some machine shops specialize in certain engines (such as AMC v8s if you want the 'oil line mod' done), and it is advisable to seek out a shop that specializes in the engine you're rebuilding.

+

Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this V8?" , as they can simply reply 'yes'. Ask them "What engines are you guys familiar with?"

== Assembly ==

How to rebuild an engine

Revision as of 16:27, 13 January 2011

Personal tools

Namespaces

Variants

Views

Actions

Search

Navigation

Categories

Toolbox

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-What tools are needed?
+{{youcanedit}}
+== Requirements ==
+'''
+====What tools are needed?====
 The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances.
@@ Line 9: / Line 13: @@
 you will also need a decent engine stand, It will make your build easier to support the engine keeping it from the ground, And also helps in tearing the engine down and also keeping the engine clean at assembly time.
-Selecting toolsr each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:
+====Selecting tools====
+For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:
 *Approximately how much do the tools cost?
@@ Line 62: / Line 67: @@
 Remember, almost every modification for performance will alter fuel consumption and/or reliability. A competition engine is not built to perform on the street as a daily driver. The more radical the modification(s)...the more maintenance is required. Use common sense and make your modifications compatible (carb, heads, cam, etc).
+===Mild===
+The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant are Small Block Chevy's, Small Block Fords, and Small Block Mopar's. Any of these three engines are used widely in the hot rodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the Small Block Chevy's, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Small Block Mopar fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy would and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these 3 engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these 3, they are the most popular.
+===Wild===
+A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big 3 American car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 Chevy Big Block motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines.
+== Locating an engine to rebuild ==
+This section should cover the basics of where to find a potential candidate for an engine rebuilding project. How to search junkyards, classified ads, the internet, etc.
+Locating an engine can be as easy as ordering a shortblock crate engine from Edelbrock on the phone, or removing an old rusty flathead from a totaled car in a junkyard.
+===Classifieds===
+Probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing.
+Another good way of finding the perfect engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to [[rust]], but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rear-end. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which a lot of us just don't have). A disadvantage to buying from the classifieds: you often don't get to hear the engine run (as it's pulled already in a majority of cases).
+===Scrapyards===
+Scrapyards can be a great resource for locating missing car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Scrapyards are full of cars from the 1970's and 80's waiting to donate their mechanical heart. Scrapyard shopping might be a good idea in order to find the best prices in town. A majority of the cars built during the past 3 decades came equipped with a V8 engine. Now a lot of these old cars are forgotten and thrown into scrapyards.
+===Networking===
+This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classifieds are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water meter readers, electrical meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen.
+Most Chevy, Dodge and Ford trucks from the 70's and 80's came equipped with carbureted (non-EFI) V8's perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, junkyards can be a very rough places in which  to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal.
+Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit.
+When choosing an engine, engines with thick amount of surface rust, critical missing parts or a obviously cracked block or heads should be completely avoided . If you can, pick an engine in a car that retains its' hood. A car that has been sitting out in the yard without a  hood or a carburetor will have rust built up inside the cylinders from the rain pouring into the engine. The more accessories and parts that are remaining on the engine, the better for future use. Testing the engine to see if it turns over by turning over the crankshaft with a long breaker-bar type wrench is a good way of determining whether the block is frozen or rusted solid. If an engine doesn't turn over, leave it be.
+== Acquisition ==
+This section should cover what to do after you've decided what engine you're going to use. It might need to be removed, hauled in your vehicle, shipped, etc.
 === Removal ===
@@ Line 86: / Line 122: @@
 *Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also).
 *If you raise the vehicle USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED!
+=== Transportation ===
+How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine.
+An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation.  If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine.  Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down.
 == Dis-assembly==
@@ Line 140: / Line 181: @@
 ==== What to expect to pay for machining work ====
 It really varies by where you get the work done and what you actually get done.  An average machine shop charges around 90 dollars per hour.  A simple head grinding could take as little as a half hour whereas a  major bore and hone could take a few hours.
+=== How to select a machine shop ===
+Cleanliness, experience, referral from trusted sources, knowledge, etc. Remember, anyone can purchase the machinery and equipment. Good equipment is necessary, but so is experience. No two shops do things the same way. Talk to the shop owner/manager and find one that you are comfortable with. Big names don't always assure top quality.
+Your machine work is only as good as the machinist performing the work! Meet and talk to the machinist that will be working on your engine...establish a rapport...be his friend as the future life of your engine is in his hands!
+Always interview the machine shop that is going to do the work on your engine. See that the shop has a complete line of rebuilding equipment to do the job that you want done. Check out the equipment that they have. Here's a link to what equipment you expect to see. http://www.allstates.com/Engine.html Beware of shops that just 'front' the actual work for other machine specialty shops. Cut out the middle man, do your homework and take your heads directly to the shop that can grind and fit your valves, AND flow your heads on their flow bench to see the improvement and benefits of their head work.
+Best words of advice, '''DO YOUR HOMEWORK!'''
+Also, some machine shops specialize in certain engines (such as AMC v8s if you want the 'oil line mod' done), and it is advisable to seek out a shop that specializes in the engine you're rebuilding.
+Be sure while interviewing the machine shop to ask what engines they know a lot about. Don't ask "Do you know a lot about this  V8?" , as they can simply reply 'yes'.  Ask them "What engines are you guys familiar with?"
 == Assembly ==