How to title a hot rod

From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
m (Reverted edits by 114.79.63.148 (talk) to last revision by 74.203.211.114)
(→Norway emissions requirements)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
−
{{youcanedit}}
+
 
 
<br>
 
<br>
 
==Overview==
 
==Overview==
 
[[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]]
 
[[Image:Title_california.jpg|300px|thumb]]
−
How to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries.  
+
to title a hot rod, in 50 US states and various countries.  
  
 
==United States==
 
==United States==
Line 438: Line 438:
  
 
Homemade trailers have their own registration process, and they receive special tags. Such trailers are not titled.
 
Homemade trailers have their own registration process, and they receive special tags. Such trailers are not titled.
 +
 +
'Kit' and Replica vehicles are registered in the state of GA with a salvage title only.  Even if you have a clean, valid title from another state, GA will change your title to salvage and change the year on your title to the year the vehicle was built.  This means it may need to meet emissions standards.  There is no exemption. (current as of 4/19/17)  If you live in one of the 13 counties requiring emissions testing, you can forget about having a kit or replica vehicle...ie, Cobra.
  
 
====Registration periods====
 
====Registration periods====
Line 460: Line 462:
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/departments/vehicles/title_registration/apply_custom_rod.html Illinois DMV info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded title info]
 
*[http://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/rtopr2615.pdf Bonded title info]
 +
*[http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs/ilcs4.asp?DocName=062500050HCh%2E+3+Art%2E+III&ActID=1815&ChapterID=49&SeqStart=39600000&SeqEnd=40500000 Illinois Vehicle Code (625 ILCS 5/)]
  
 
===Indiana===
 
===Indiana===
Line 713: Line 716:
 
In addition, either the seller or the Buyer will need to have a "Visual Inspection" (TV-7) completed by a law enforcement agency. At the same time, they must obtain a "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" from that agency.
 
In addition, either the seller or the Buyer will need to have a "Visual Inspection" (TV-7) completed by a law enforcement agency. At the same time, they must obtain a "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" from that agency.
  
−
The Buyer must then forward the seller's notarized bill of sale as described above, along with the TV-7, the Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report from a law enforcement agency, and a completed RMV-1 plus the $50.00 title fee, to Auto Theft. Auto Theft will evaluate the information presented, run a check on the vehicle, and if satisfactory, will direct that a Title be issued and sent to the BUYER. Once the title has been received, the BUYER may then register the vehicle.
+
 
  
 
I am having trouble getting the "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" Since the car is not stolen the cops don't see a need. They told me to do a carfax, but I don't think the RMV will accept that.  
 
I am having trouble getting the "Stolen Vehicle Inquiry Report" Since the car is not stolen the cops don't see a need. They told me to do a carfax, but I don't think the RMV will accept that.  
Line 750: Line 753:
  
 
The forms are basic and just ask the standard stuff like VIN numbers, receipts for major components etc. I had to sign an affidavit stating it wasn't stolen or anything. You only need a bond if you are titling a high value vehicle
 
The forms are basic and just ask the standard stuff like VIN numbers, receipts for major components etc. I had to sign an affidavit stating it wasn't stolen or anything. You only need a bond if you are titling a high value vehicle
 +
 +
*Note: The original author did not actually "title" the vehicle. A title will only be issued after properly bonding the vehicle, no matter it's value. The title will be branded as "Bonded" for a period of three years, after which it can be cleared from the title. If the vehicle is custom built or has major components from several vehicles, then all VIN/Serial numbers on major components (engine, transmission, frame, etc.) will need to be recorded and photographed. The vehicle may still be registered and driven on the road legally, while awaiting the title, though. Of course, depending on the DMV location, you may be able to get away without any of this. See your local DMV agent to ask for their requirements, as some almost never deal with custom or homebuilt vehicles.
 +
 +
For more detailed information on Minnesota's title process: https://www.dmv.com/mn/minnesota/custom-vehicle-registration
  
 
===Mississippi===
 
===Mississippi===
  
 
===Missouri===
 
===Missouri===
−
The state of Missouri apparently remains committed to the idea that a vehicle with a lost title can never have one again, at least not by the state of Missouri. It doesn't matter if the vehicle has all the VIN and cowl tags in place, if they have no record of it, it doesn't exist. They will allow a "551 inspection" done by select Highway Patrol officers, but only if the vehicle is 'finished', IE, runs and drives and passes inspection and looks like new inside and out. There is no meaningful legal way to own or title it before then. If the vehicle is built from parts, even if the shell you start with has tags on it, they want copious amounts of documentation on the origins of every nut and bolt apparently, if it didn't come from that car to start with.
 
  
−
The state of Missouri has updated their website to include new information about titling classic vehicles. The procedure apparently goes like this: seek out your local county circuit court, and file for a "Declaratory Judgement" telling the judge your story and why the car belongs to you. If he/she decides in your favor and issues the judgment, send this form and a standard title application to the state and apparently they will issue title.
+
Several methods exist in Missouri to title a classic vehicle. Read and research carefully on the State's website the various ways to obtain a vehicle title, and determine which is most appropriate for your individual circumstances.
 +
 
 +
If your vehicle still has the standard VIN plate in it's original location, the first step is to call or visit any local law enforcement with the vehicle's VIN number. They will immediately check for any previous report of the vehicle being stolen. A "stolen" report never goes off file in Missouri, so be prepared to answer lots of questions in the very unlikely event your vehicle was previously reported stolen.
 +
 
 +
A little patience and kindness goes a long way, and many times the officer will tell you who the vehicle was last titled to. Approaching that person to request a duplicate title is often the easiest way to get a new replacement/duplicate title, which they can then sign over to you.
 +
 
 +
On much older vehicles, the VIN may come back as "not on file/no record". This would generally be the case with a vehicle that has not legally changed hands in 25 or more years. Before the computer age, older DMV records were not saved past 25 years in Missouri. At this point it may be worth contacting the State Archives to check for a record there. Their motor vehicle records apparently go back 35 years.
 +
 
 +
If the State Archives has nothing on file, a "bonded title" procedure may be followed to obtain title. This involves lots of legwork, paperwork, purchase of a bond, etc, but is one way to get it done.
 +
 
 +
The vehicle will need a 551 inspection. The form for this costs $27 at the license bureau. This form expires 6 months after purchasing it. A Highway Patrol vehicle inspection station can complete this form. Many of them will say the vehicle must be complete/finished/in running condition before they will inspect it. If your car is not yet completed, call around to other Highway Patrol inspection stations and check with them. Additionally, St. Louis City Auto Theft Bureau, or St. Louis County Auto Theft Bureau may inspect it, and I was able to persuade them to come to me, as my car was incomplete and non-operational at the time (and located in St. Louis County). I also filled out a standard DOR-108 title application.
 +
 
 +
I obtained written appraisals from two licensed auto dealers. Short and sweet, without too much detail. (These were the hardest to get, as so many dealers aren't willing to write an appraisal on a car they aren't involved in a transaction with, so this step is considerably easier if you know people who will write the appraisals.)
 +
 
 +
I filled out an affidavit stating how I came in to possession of the vehicle. I then purchased a bond for twice my car's appraised value. (The cost was $100 for a $3000 bond. Your insurance company can advise who to purchase the bond from, called an "Abandoned Vehicle Title Bond").
 +
 
 +
I drove my stack of paperwork to Jefferson City in person and submitted it. I received a clear, non-prior salvage title about 10 days later.
 +
 
 +
Several different procedures exist that are substantially easier to accomplish than above, if the vehicle is complete and in running condition. Storage or Mechanic's Lien titles may be appropriate for some situations. Obtaining a "Declaratory Judgment" from a local circuit court may also work, and this might be better for a vehicle that has a 'distressed' title, such as pre-dated, signed in the wrong place, etc.
 +
 
 +
Seek out your local county circuit court and file for a "Declaratory Judgement" telling the judge your story and why the car belongs to you. If he/she decides in your favor and issues the judgment, this form and a standard title application sent or delivered to the State and they have to issue title. There are "Specially Reconstructed Vehicle", Salvage titles, and many other options.
 +
 
 +
Note- You may not be able to get an appointment to "see" the judge.  You may have to hire an attorney and present a case and go through the whole legal (read bureaucratic) system.
 +
 
 +
Read the instructions, figure out which options are best for you, be patient. It can be done. See the State of Missouri's website for more details:
  
−
Note- You may not be able to get an appointment to "see the judge".  You may have to hire an attorney and present a case and go through the whole legal (read bureaucratic) system.
+
Missouri Motor Vehicle and Marinecraft Titling Manual.pdf
  
 
===Montana===
 
===Montana===
Line 809: Line 839:
 
Registering your custom-built car is a fairly simple process―probably much simpler than the vehicle construction itself. It's much like registering any other motor vehicle, except for one additional form and a required inspection.
 
Registering your custom-built car is a fairly simple process―probably much simpler than the vehicle construction itself. It's much like registering any other motor vehicle, except for one additional form and a required inspection.
  
−
The Certificate of Inspection/Affidavit of Vehicle Construction is vital. (This can be found at http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/rd64.pdf) On this form, a representative of a state-registered garage or body shop must complete the first part, as well as sections A, B, or C, as applicable.
+
The Certificate of Inspection/Affidavit of Vehicle Construction is vital. (This can be found at http://www.dmvnv.com/pdfforms/vp064.pdf) On this form, a representative of a state-registered garage or body shop must complete the first part, as well as sections A, B, or C, as applicable.
  
 
The garage representative will inspect the vehicle and give various parts of your car a "pass" or "fail" related to safety and state requirements. Once all parts receive a pass, he or she will then sign off on the vehicle, stating that it's safe to operate on Nevada roads. Now you can proceed with the registration.
 
The garage representative will inspect the vehicle and give various parts of your car a "pass" or "fail" related to safety and state requirements. Once all parts receive a pass, he or she will then sign off on the vehicle, stating that it's safe to operate on Nevada roads. Now you can proceed with the registration.
Line 850: Line 880:
  
 
I called the NJMVS and requested their titling/registration package for what they describe as a "specialty vehicle". A lot of red tape, but bottom line is that you need to document entire build with corresponding costs...They want to see how much you paid for everything so that they can charge sales tax, just like if you purchased a new vehicle off of the lot. If you have sales receipts for parts that the tax was already paid, that I guess would be exempt. As I get further into this, I'll post update or revise as necessary.
 
I called the NJMVS and requested their titling/registration package for what they describe as a "specialty vehicle". A lot of red tape, but bottom line is that you need to document entire build with corresponding costs...They want to see how much you paid for everything so that they can charge sales tax, just like if you purchased a new vehicle off of the lot. If you have sales receipts for parts that the tax was already paid, that I guess would be exempt. As I get further into this, I'll post update or revise as necessary.
−
 
−
Update by steve392 on 10/3/07...Got further into it with NJMVS. A specialty (or reconstructed) vehicle will be titled in the year in which it is completed. So instead of having a '41 Willys, '32 Ford, etc., if you title it this year, it will officially be a 2007. The make will be "REC" (for reconstructed) and the model will be "Custom".
 
  
 
===New Mexico===
 
===New Mexico===
Line 861: Line 889:
  
 
You can also go to a "Title specialist" licensed with the state to get the title for you, for a price.  It involves them advertising the vehicle with a lien for a certain amount of time.  If nobody claims it you get a title for it.  This route is the most expensive but you don't have to do any legwork.
 
You can also go to a "Title specialist" licensed with the state to get the title for you, for a price.  It involves them advertising the vehicle with a lien for a certain amount of time.  If nobody claims it you get a title for it.  This route is the most expensive but you don't have to do any legwork.
 +
 +
This was taken from New Mexico's Motor Vehicle Division website (http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209A.htm) (For others rebuilt kits, see: http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209B.htm, and http://www.mvd.newmexico.gov/Manuals/Pages/Vehicles%209C.htm)
 +
 +
Chapter 9, Section A:
 +
Reconstructed, Rebuilt or Homemade/Shop-Built Vehicles
 +
 +
Revised September 8, 2008
 +
________________________________________
 +
 +
Reconstructed, rebuilt, homemade or shop-built vehicles may be titled if the applicant has all the required documents and provided that the vehicle conforms to all vehicle equipment safety standards applicable to the particular vehicle.
 +
 +
Requirements
 +
1. Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin (MCO) or Certificate of Title
 +
 +
Required only for a factory chassis. Does not apply if the chassis is homemade/“shop built”.
 +
 +
2. Invoices and Bills of Sale
 +
 +
Must be provided for all parts purchased to build the vehicle.
 +
 +
3. Affirmation for Specially Constructed or Reconstructed Vehicle
 +
 +
The "Affirmation for Specially Constructed or Reconstructed Vehicle" form (MVD-10015), must be completed and signed by the applicant attesting to the fact that the vehicle has been constructed or reconstructed from a factory or homemade/“shop built” chassis. The affirmation also indicates whether the vehicle was previously titled or registered in another state.
 +
 +
4. Vehicle Equipment Affirmation
 +
 +
The "Vehicle Equipment Affirmation" form (MVD-10053), must be completed and signed by the applicant. Review the document to be sure that the applicant has checked off all equipment required for the type of vehicle being registered. Assembled vehicles must comply with federal standards for highway use (this is the owner's responsibility). If the applicant tells you that some of the equipment is still missing or not working, DO NOT process the transaction.
 +
 +
5. Weight Certificate
 +
 +
Must be provided to accurately assess registration fees (exept for motorcycles and off-highway vehicles).
 +
 +
6. Affidavit of VIN
 +
 +
Required for each different VIN that appears on the vehicle's factory chassis, cab and/or engine.
 +
 +
7. NCIC check
 +
 +
If there are different VINs on the factory chassis, cab and/or engine, an NCIC check is required on each VIN.
 +
 +
8. New Mexico Assigned VIN
 +
 +
For home-made trailers and other vehicles that require a secondary number, a New Mexico Assigned VIN must be affixed to the vehicle by a Motor Vehicle Division employee or a certified Law Enforcement Inspector.
 +
 +
When preparing to affix the New Mexico Assigned VIN plate to vehicle, if the vehicle obviously does not comply with vehicle equipment standards, do not attach the plate. Instead, VOID the transaction.
 +
 +
Factory-Made Chassis Determines Year Model
 +
On vehicles that are reconstructed, the chassis (when the chassis, parts and equipment, including the frame, are standard factory equipment) will determine the year model of a vehicle. Enter the VIN from the title of the chassis as the primary number and a New Mexico Assigned VIN as a secondary vehicle identification number. The vehicle must be identified as "REBUILT" in the "brand" field. The Title Application (all copies) must be stamped with the "REBUILT" brand.
 +
 +
Shop-Built Chassis Determines Year Model
 +
If the vehicle, including the chassis and/or body, is built from scrap metal, “shop-built” parts or parts from other vehicles, the year in which the vehicle is built will determine the year model. The vehicle make will be "HOMEMADE," and the constructed vehicle must comply with all current safety requirements for highway operation. Assign a New Mexico Assigned VIN as the primary vehicle identification number.
 +
 +
9. Fees
 +
 +
Normal fees apply. The excise tax will be based on the purchase price of the partially dismantled vehicle, other parts purchased, plus labor involved in rebuilding the vehicle.
  
 
===New York===
 
===New York===
Line 1,359: Line 1,442:
 
In order to title the vehicle the owner should take the original title for the vehicle along with a completed form MV2855 to the local DMV office where they will also fill out form MV-1 which is the standard "Title/License Plate Application".
 
In order to title the vehicle the owner should take the original title for the vehicle along with a completed form MV2855 to the local DMV office where they will also fill out form MV-1 which is the standard "Title/License Plate Application".
  
−
Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal license plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate.  The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $160, but then the plate is good for your lifetime.  It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate.  If you purchase additional qualified vehicles, the plate cost for each is reduced to $110.  
+
Street Modified vehicles qualify for either a normal license plate (personalized plates, etc.) or a Hobbyist Plate.  The advantage of a hobby plate is that you pay a one time fee, approximately $200, but then the plate is good for your lifetime.  It can also be transferred to another car should you sell the existing car and purchase another which also qualifies for the Hobby plate.  If you purchase additional qualified vehicles, the plate cost for each is reduced to $150.  
  
 
In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1.  The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT.
 
In the event the owner does not have a title (but the vehicle has an original VIN) you must apply for a replacement title using state form MV-1.  The WDOT may require that the VIN be inspected and certified by a law enforcement officer (state or local police) and then their certification forwarded to the WDOT.
Line 1,773: Line 1,856:
  
 
===Norway emissions requirements===
 
===Norway emissions requirements===
−
{{Note1}} The following is from Hotrodders forum member [i]Vacuum[/i] with permission 00:14, 2 December 2012 (MST):
+
 
  
 
"Approving a modified car for street use in Norway is a difficult battle, but can be done. The rules are numerous and very complicated, and therefore not really fit for a Wiki article. Also I am not a lawyer and do not know them all in detail They can be viewed online, but only in Norwegian, as far as I know.
 
"Approving a modified car for street use in Norway is a difficult battle, but can be done. The rules are numerous and very complicated, and therefore not really fit for a Wiki article. Also I am not a lawyer and do not know them all in detail They can be viewed online, but only in Norwegian, as far as I know.
Line 1,790: Line 1,873:
  
  
−
==UK==
 
−
 
−
==Commercial titling services==
 
−
Need details on this. How do they work? How do their differ state-to-state or region-to-region? Legality? Cost?
 
−
 
−
Examples:
 
−
*[http://getnewtitle.com GetNewTitle.com]
 
−
*[http://www.its-titles.com/ International Title Service]
 
−
*[http://broadwaytitle.com/ Broadway Title Company]
 
−
 
−
 
−
{{youcanedit}}
 
  
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
 
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
−
[[Category:Good articles]]
 
 
[[Category:Identification and decoding]]
 
[[Category:Identification and decoding]]

Latest revision as of 18:11, 8 December 2023

Retrieved from "https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/index.php?title=How_to_title_a_hot_rod&oldid=3482781"
Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox
 
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy