The FREE T Bucket plans

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~~vC4OEm <a href~~=~~"http://lykmjlisdwpe.com/">lykmjlisdwpe</a>, [url~~=~~http://inlxmzfiaoxt.com/]inlxmzfiaoxt[/url], [link~~=~~http://erxwsaokodvb.com/]erxwsaokodvb[/link], http://jairwqczmqpl.com/~~

+

==Intro==

−

~~dors2~~.~~txt;1;1~~

+

This wiki page was created as a home for the plans that are a result of this thread: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/creating-new-t-bucket-frame-plans-need-tons-info-plans-77092.html Creating New T Bucket Plans]

−

~~dors2~~.~~txt;1;1~~

+

My plans will be added as they are finalized, currently i am only working on adding example pictures to this page while i slave away in silence on the plans themselves.

−

~~dors2~~.~~txt;1;~~1

+

EDIT: I no longer have intentions of participating in this wiki. I also will not be adding my plans to this page. Sorry but this is the way it has to be. - Lowrollerchevy

+

==Planning your build==

+

'''Before you ever START to plan the build of the vehicle, make sure you know EXACTLY what you need to do in order to register your vehicle in your state / county / town. Many people have had to do expensive changes to their street rod because they ignored this step until the vehicle was "ready to drive"'''

+

"Step One: Get catalogs from the Boys in the Business. Even if you plan to do a low $ build with few new parts, having a wide range of catalogs to browse through can help make decisions easier.

+

Step Two: Read the monthly rodding magazines that feature Ts, and browse the web for what others have done. expose yourself to a wide variety of designs

+

Step Three: Go to local car shows and talk to any / all of the T Bucket owners who are there. Most will be happy to give to a ride that will not leave you a jabbering ninny shaking on the pavement when you return. Others will scare the bejesus out of you and that will be the end of this project. The heaviest of these little cars weighs in at about 2200 pounds or so, most are under 2000, some as light as 15-1600. Damn near ANY engine, 4,6,or 8 will make happy speed in that light a platform. Plus, smaller engines weigh less anyway.

+

Step Four: If you have no building skills, take a welding class at the local community college for starters. You'll have tools and equipment to buy and rent as needed. You'll also need space, and more space, and more space. Although many nice cars are built under carports or in one car garages, it is nice to have a fairly empty 2 car one. You figure out how to tell Mama she'll have to park the Escalade in the drive for about 2 years!!

+

Step Five: Now that you have some basic knowledge under your belt, decide what style T you want to build......

+

*"classic" 23-25 or 26-27 roadster pickup,

+

*23-25 or 26-27 track car with hood, nose and turtle deck,

+

*23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others.

+

REMEMBER: MOCK IT UP, DON'T "FOCK" IT UP! Build your first frame effort from 2X4 lumber and nuts&bolts. Set it up on jackstands with your body on board and your frontend assembly, engine/trans and rearend underneath. TaKE YOUR TIME, DON'T START CUTTING THAT STEEL UNTIL YOU'VE GOT A REAL FEEL FOR WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.

+

Be honest with yourself and build your T Bucket to perform to your satisfaction.

+

The classic high horsepower, low rear end gears, steam roller rear tires and spoked front wheels are great for show's and an instant rush when you step on it, but may not be the ticket if you want to drive more than a few miles in comfort and get good gas mileage. Many builders are opting for four wheel disk brakes, fuel injection, moderate size tires, hydraulic shocks on the front suspension, 4 spd overdrive transmissions, etc. All of these features are a personal preference, and since there's no right or wrong way, build it your way.

+

==Frame==

+

"Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member.

+

Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front similar to a Model A frame. And others have other ideas." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod

+

==Front suspension==

+

Front axle choices:

+

Early Ford I-beam axles:

+

28-31 Model A Passenger Car & Pickup

+

32-36 Passenger Car & Pickup

+

37-41 Passenger Car & Pickup

+

42-48 Passenger Car

+

42-47 Pickup

+

Early Dodge/Plymouth tubular axles:

+

33-39 Dodge

+

33 & 35-39 Plymouth

+

Early Ford Tubular axles:

+

37-40 V8-60 only

+

Any other factory I-beam axle from Chevy/GMC or Ford Pickups, 60s Ford & Chevy/GMC vans,

+

early Chevy cars 36-40, early Chevy/GMC pickups 36-55.

+

Fabricated axles:

+

Many makers (Speedway Motors, Total Performance, and others)

+

usually sold and described as dropped axle in 4-5-6" drops and made to accommodate 37-48 Ford Passenger Car and 37-47 Ford Pickup spindles, or 61-66 Ford Econoline Van spindles, or 49-54 Chevrolet Passenger Car spindles.

+

NEW Manufactured axles:

+

Super Bell tubular axle

+

Magnum dropped I-beam

+

Super Bell dropped I-beam

+

and others

+

===Coils & shocks===

+

"Don't do it on the front of your car!! DON'T DO IT!! No matter that Car Craft did this on their project car. Ugly is ugly and almost nothing is uglier that those nasty towers on the front of the frame and coil springs and cups on the axle and shocks running up the middle...YAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! No chrome, no paint, nothing can hide this mistake....don't do it! There are too many other options that at least look good." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.

+

=== Coil Over's===

+

"If done right, this is a clean attractive good riding suspension for the front of any roadster.

+

If done wrong....well it can be ugly, it can be nasty looking, and it can be rough riding.

+

Only drawback is expense. Most manufacturers will allow you to return springs if they are too stiff for a softer set....one time." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.

+

===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)===

+

"Based on the 28-34 Ford suspension, this is the old classic if there is any such thing.

+

Most important thing is to make sure your spring is mounted under tension as the original Ford design requires. The spring must be spread to mount the shackles to the perches. Be sure if you are using a 28-31 or 32-34 front spring to have the perches at the proper width and have the correct shackles for the spring you have, 32-34 springs have a larger spring eye than 28-31 As do.

+

The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could save you a few steps.

+

What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement.

+

Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car."

+

===1/4 elliptical===

+

[[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14331]]

+

[[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14332]]

+

===4 link / Hair pins===

==Rear Suspension ==

The FREE T Bucket plans

Revision as of 11:57, 28 October 2008

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@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 {{youcanedit}}
-vC4OEm  <a href="http://lykmjlisdwpe.com/">lykmjlisdwpe</a>, [url=http://inlxmzfiaoxt.com/]inlxmzfiaoxt[/url], [link=http://erxwsaokodvb.com/]erxwsaokodvb[/link], http://jairwqczmqpl.com/
+==Intro==
-dors2.txt;1;1
+This wiki page was created as a home for the plans that are a result of this thread: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/creating-new-t-bucket-frame-plans-need-tons-info-plans-77092.html Creating New T Bucket Plans]
-dors2.txt;1;1
+My plans will be added as they are finalized, currently i am only working on adding example pictures to this page while i slave away in silence on the plans themselves.
-dors2.txt;1;1
+EDIT: I no longer have intentions of participating in this wiki. I also will not be adding my plans to this page. Sorry but this is the way it has to be. - Lowrollerchevy
+==Planning your build==
+'''Before you ever START to plan the build of the vehicle, make sure you know EXACTLY what you need to do in order to register your vehicle in your state / county / town. Many people have had to do expensive changes to their street rod because they ignored this step until the vehicle was "ready to drive"'''
+"Step One: Get catalogs from the Boys in the Business. Even if you plan to do a low $ build with few new parts, having a wide range of catalogs to browse through can help make decisions easier.
+Step Two: Read the monthly rodding magazines that feature Ts, and browse the web for what others have done. expose yourself to a wide variety of designs
+Step Three: Go to local car shows and talk to any / all of the T Bucket owners who are there. Most will be happy to give to a ride that will not leave you a jabbering ninny shaking on the pavement when you return. Others will scare the bejesus out of you and that will be the end of this project. The heaviest of these little cars weighs in at about 2200 pounds or so, most are under 2000, some as light as 15-1600. Damn near ANY engine, 4,6,or 8 will make happy speed in that light a platform. Plus, smaller engines weigh less anyway.
+Step Four: If you have no building skills, take a welding class at the local community college for starters. You'll have tools and equipment to buy and rent as needed. You'll also need space, and more space, and more space. Although many nice cars are built under carports or in one car garages, it is nice to have a fairly empty 2 car one. You figure out how to tell Mama she'll have to park the Escalade in the drive for about 2 years!!
+Step Five: Now that you have some basic knowledge under your belt, decide what style T you want to build......
+*"classic" 23-25 or 26-27 roadster pickup,
+*23-25 or 26-27 track car with hood, nose and turtle deck,
+*23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others.
+REMEMBER: MOCK IT UP, DON'T "FOCK" IT UP! Build your first frame effort from 2X4 lumber and nuts&bolts. Set it up on jackstands with your body on board and your frontend assembly,  engine/trans and rearend underneath. TaKE YOUR TIME, DON'T START CUTTING THAT STEEL UNTIL YOU'VE GOT A REAL FEEL FOR WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.
+Be honest with yourself and build your T Bucket to perform to your satisfaction.
+The classic high horsepower, low rear end gears, steam roller rear tires and spoked front wheels are great for show's and an instant rush when you step on it, but may not be the ticket if you want to drive more than a few miles in comfort and get good gas mileage.  Many builders are opting for four wheel disk brakes, fuel injection, moderate size tires, hydraulic shocks on the front suspension, 4 spd overdrive transmissions, etc.  All of these features are a personal preference, and since there's no right or wrong way, build it your way.
+==Frame==
+"Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member.
+Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front similar to a Model A frame. And others have other ideas." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod
+==Front suspension==
+Front axle choices:
+Early Ford I-beam axles:
+-31 Model A Passenger Car & Pickup
+-36 Passenger Car & Pickup
+-41 Passenger Car & Pickup
+-48 Passenger Car
+-47 Pickup
+Early Dodge/Plymouth tubular axles:
+-39 Dodge
+& 35-39 Plymouth
+Early Ford Tubular axles:
+-40 V8-60 only
+Any other factory I-beam axle from Chevy/GMC or Ford Pickups, 60s Ford & Chevy/GMC vans,
+early Chevy cars 36-40, early Chevy/GMC pickups 36-55.
+Fabricated axles:
+Many makers (Speedway Motors, Total Performance, and others)
+usually sold and described as dropped axle in 4-5-6" drops and made to accommodate 37-48 Ford Passenger Car and 37-47 Ford Pickup spindles, or 61-66 Ford Econoline Van spindles, or 49-54 Chevrolet Passenger Car spindles.
+NEW Manufactured axles:
+Super Bell tubular axle
+Magnum dropped I-beam
+Super Bell dropped I-beam
+and others
+===Coils & shocks===
+"Don't do it on the front of your car!! DON'T DO IT!! No matter that Car Craft did this on their project car. Ugly is ugly and almost nothing is uglier that those nasty towers on the front of the frame and coil springs and cups on the axle and shocks running up the middle...YAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! No chrome, no paint, nothing can hide this mistake....don't do it! There are too many other options that at least look good." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.
+=== Coil Over's===
+"If done right, this is a clean attractive good riding suspension for the front of any roadster.
+If done wrong....well it can be ugly, it can be nasty looking, and it can be rough riding.
+Only drawback is expense. Most manufacturers will allow you to return springs if they are too stiff for a softer set....one time." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod.
+===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)===
+"Based on the 28-34 Ford suspension, this is the old classic if there is any such thing.
+Most important thing is to make sure your spring is mounted under tension as the original Ford design requires. The spring must be spread to mount the shackles to the perches. Be sure if you are using a 28-31 or 32-34 front spring to have the perches at the proper width and have the correct shackles for the spring you have, 32-34 springs have a larger spring eye than 28-31 As do.
+The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could save you a few steps.
+What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement.
+Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car."
+===1/4 elliptical===
+[[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14331]]
+[[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14332]]
+===4 link / Hair pins===
 ==Rear Suspension ==