How to rebuild an engine
(→Deciding on an engine) |
|||
| Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
{{youcanedit}} | {{youcanedit}} | ||
| − | + | == Requirements == | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ||
| − | + | === Tools and Work Area === | |
| − | http:// | + | |
| − | + | ====What tools are needed?==== | |
| − | + | The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, Plastigauge [http://www.plastigauge.co.uk/], and a cam bearing installing tool (unless machine shop installs cam bearings). Also you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner, a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | Depending on how indepth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment.Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. Think of these tools as indespensible if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | ====Selecting tools==== | |
| − | + | For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know: | |
| − | + | *Approximately how much does the tool cost? | |
| − | + | ||
| − | + | *Is it better to buy a cheap version of this tool, or should you spend money to buy a high-quality version of this tool? If you're starting a "project" or work on cars often it would be wise to spend the extra money on higher quality tools. Craftsman and Snap-On are commonly known to be the "best tools". Snap-On is a lttle better quality, but cost considerably more and can sometimes be a pain in the butt to exchange your broken tool since you would have to chase down one of their trucks. Craftsman is a good brand of tool too and can be bought at almost any Sears department store. Both of these brand tools come with a lifetime warranty which comes in really handy, especially when your removing a bolt and the tool breaks. | |
| − | + | ||
| + | Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degreeing wheel for sure! You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like JEGS, or Summit Racing Equipment, maybe even the local shop. They go for around $200. You will also need a dial indicator as well as a magnetic stand for it. These can also be purchased at Jegs and Summit. | ||
| + | The larger (diameter) the degree wheel the easier it is to be accurate. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Purchasing tools==== | ||
| + | When purchasing tools it is best to consider the application and frequency of use. If the tool is intended for infrequent to frequent hobby use, the purchase of cheaper brands of tools such as Craftsman may be appropriate. If however the tool is intended for daily use in harsh conditions, especially in the context of automotive repair, an investment in higher quality tools produced by companies such as Matco, Snap On, Mac and Cornwell should be considered. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Borrowing tools==== | ||
| + | If you decide you need some specialized tools that you really don't want to invest money into right now, ask around in your circle of friends to find out if anyone has the tool(s) and will loan to you for the task at hand. It is common courtesy to return borrowed tools promptly and in better condition than they were lent: If a tool was dirty when it was borrowed, clean it before it is returned. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Be aware of the industry notion that a tool that has been borrowed more than twice should be considered for future purchase. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Renting tools==== | ||
| + | There are some tools you will want to rent instead of purchasing, such as a cherry picker to remove and replace the motor in the car. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Work area=== | ||
| + | Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. | ||
| + | |||
| + | When assembling an engine, your work area can't be too clean. A clean, well-organized space makes project completion easier and faster while minimizing the loss of tools and parts due to misplacement and/or damage. Tool storage chests/carts, a label-maker, crafts carriers, magnetized trays and even muffin trays do a fantastic job of keeping a workspace organized and tools/parts in their place. Plastic trash bags of various sizes can also serve in the shop by covering an engine on an engine stand, heads and other items that need to be kept dust free. | ||
| + | |||
| + | In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | ||
| + | |||
| + | === Skill level === | ||
| + | The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | ||
| + | |||
| + | If you are rebuilding something more exotic, such as a rotary engine or a turbo diesel then you should take the time to research and familiarize yourself with them. Some engines require complicated computer controlled management systems which may require extensive modifications depending on how the engine is to be rebuilt and will therefore also require a greater skill level. | ||
| + | |||
| + | The main thing to keep in mind is that there are close tolerances to check and a certain order of steps to follow. Just take the time to research your engine and above all, ask questions when necessary. | ||
| + | |||
| + | Today there is much information available on the internet. Be careful! All information is not correct! Verify any information with several professional and/or reliable sources. | ||
| + | |||
| + | == Deciding on an engine == | ||
| + | Factors in deciding on an engine/build are as follows: | ||
| + | *Need | ||
| + | *Application | ||
| + | *Cost | ||
| + | |||
| + | Picking an engine is no small chore. It's a crucial step to building a hot rod, and one that affects the performance of the final product. It is entirely up to you which engine you want to run in your hot rod. Pretty much anything is possible, but not anything will be money and time efficient. Big Block Chevy's have been jammed into little Chevettes, and Chrysler Hemi's have been sandwiched into VW Bugs. With the right tools, mechanical skill, knowledge, money and time, any engine/vehicle combination can be achieved. But most people don't have unlimited amounts of money and most people don't own a fully equipped shop for massive chassis and body modifications to allow the engine to fit. So it would be recommended to pick an engine that's suitable for your application and your skill level. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | ===Stock=== | ||
| + | A lot of people choose to run the stock motor that came in the car. This would be a good idea if it's your first hot rod, if the engine in your car is still in good condition (if it even came with an engine) or if your motor and mechanical skills aren't developed enough yet to undertake an engine swap. Depending on what kind of car you're working with, the stock engine will often suffice, if the car is meant to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. If you're planning to build a wild custom car, strip racer, or weekend warrior, the stock engine probably won't be of any interest to you. There are many performance parts available these days for the older popular engines. Anything from Ford Flatheads, Chrysler's Hemi, Mopar Slant 6's, GM Stovebolts, Buick Nailheads, and Ford Small Blocks has a big variety of aftermarket parts available. Well, maybe not Mopar Slant 6's. Taking the stock engine and hopping it up a bit to squeeze a little bit more performance out of it is a very common thing done by a lot of people building a first time hot rod. Just by changing the exhaust, intake and camshaft, a stock boring engine can often become a neat hot rod mill with plenty of power for daily driving and weekend cruising. If your plans for your hot rod include a loud nasty fire breathing monster motor, your stock motor probably won't do a lot for you. Remember, almost every modification for performance will alter fuel consumption and/or reliability. A competition engine is not built to perform on the street as a daily driver. The more radical the modification(s)...the more maintenance is required. Use common sense and make your modifications compatible (carb, heads, cam, etc). | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===Mild=== | ||
| + | The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant are Small Block Chevy's, Small Block Fords, and Small Block Mopar's. Any of these three engines are used widely in the hot rodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the Small Block Chevy's, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Small Block Mopar fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy would and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these 3 engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these 3, they are the most popular. | ||
| + | |||
| + | |||
| + | ===Wild=== | ||
| + | A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big 3 American car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 Chevy Big Block motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines. | ||
== Locating an engine to rebuild == | == Locating an engine to rebuild == | ||
Your Privacy Choices