How to rebuild an engine
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| − | + | == Requirements == | |
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| − | + | === Tools and Work Area === | |
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| − | + | ====What tools are needed?==== | |
| − | + | The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances. | |
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| − | http:// | + | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. |
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| − | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, Plastigauge [http://www.plastigauge.co.uk/], and a cam bearing installing tool (unless machine shop installs cam bearings). Also you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner, a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. | |
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| − | + | Depending on how indepth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment.Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. Think of these tools as indespensible if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). | |
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| − | + | ====Selecting tools==== | |
| − | + | For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know: | |
| − | + | *Approximately how much does the tool cost? | |
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| − | + | *Is it better to buy a cheap version of this tool, or should you spend money to buy a high-quality version of this tool? If you're starting a "project" or work on cars often it would be wise to spend the extra money on higher quality tools. Craftsman and Snap-On are commonly known to be the "best tools". Snap-On is a lttle better quality, but cost considerably more and can sometimes be a pain in the butt to exchange your broken tool since you would have to chase down one of their trucks. Craftsman is a good brand of tool too and can be bought at almost any Sears department store. Both of these brand tools come with a lifetime warranty which comes in really handy, especially when your removing a bolt and the tool breaks. | |
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| − | + | Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degreeing wheel for sure! You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like JEGS, or Summit Racing Equipment, maybe even the local shop. They go for around $200. You will also need a dial indicator as well as a magnetic stand for it. These can also be purchased at Jegs and Summit. | |
| + | The larger (diameter) the degree wheel the easier it is to be accurate. | ||
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| + | ====Purchasing tools==== | ||
| + | When purchasing tools it is best to consider the application and frequency of use. If the tool is intended for infrequent to frequent hobby use, the purchase of cheaper brands of tools such as Craftsman may be appropriate. If however the tool is intended for daily use in harsh conditions, especially in the context of automotive repair, an investment in higher quality tools produced by companies such as Matco, Snap On, Mac and Cornwell should be considered. | ||
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| + | ====Borrowing tools==== | ||
| + | If you decide you need some specialized tools that you really don't want to invest money into right now, ask around in your circle of friends to find out if anyone has the tool(s) and will loan to you for the task at hand. It is common courtesy to return borrowed tools promptly and in better condition than they were lent: If a tool was dirty when it was borrowed, clean it before it is returned. | ||
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| + | Be aware of the industry notion that a tool that has been borrowed more than twice should be considered for future purchase. | ||
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| + | ====Renting tools==== | ||
| + | There are some tools you will want to rent instead of purchasing, such as a cherry picker to remove and replace the motor in the car. | ||
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| + | ===Work area=== | ||
| + | Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. | ||
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| + | When assembling an engine, your work area can't be too clean. A clean, well-organized space makes project completion easier and faster while minimizing the loss of tools and parts due to misplacement and/or damage. Tool storage chests/carts, a label-maker, crafts carriers, magnetized trays and even muffin trays do a fantastic job of keeping a workspace organized and tools/parts in their place. Plastic trash bags of various sizes can also serve in the shop by covering an engine on an engine stand, heads and other items that need to be kept dust free. | ||
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| + | In order to minimize the risk of sending dust up into the air and settling on work area surfaces, a floor sweeping compound, damp saw dust or damp cloth should be used. If the space is small and/or enclosed, an air filtration system may also provide aid in minimizing the presence of particulate matter. | ||
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| + | === Skill level === | ||
| + | The amount of skill necessary to rebuild an engine depends on what engine you are rebuilding and just how much of the work you plan on doing yourself. If you are rebuilding a standard pushrod V8 such as the small block Chevy with all the machine work being performed by a reputable shop, then the skills needed are basically nothing more than being good with your hands, the ability to take and read measurements, use tools properly, the patience to do things right the first time and the ability to read, understand and follow a comprehensive manual on the subject. If you don't understand or are not certain of a procedure, ask an experienced professional! | ||
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| + | If you are rebuilding something more exotic, such as a rotary engine or a turbo diesel then you should take the time to research and familiarize yourself with them. Some engines require complicated computer controlled management systems which may require extensive modifications depending on how the engine is to be rebuilt and will therefore also require a greater skill level. | ||
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| + | The main thing to keep in mind is that there are close tolerances to check and a certain order of steps to follow. Just take the time to research your engine and above all, ask questions when necessary. | ||
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| + | Today there is much information available on the internet. Be careful! All information is not correct! Verify any information with several professional and/or reliable sources. | ||
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| + | == Deciding on an engine == | ||
| + | Factors in deciding on an engine/build are as follows: | ||
| + | *Need | ||
| + | *Application | ||
| + | *Cost | ||
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| + | Picking an engine is no small chore. It's a crucial step to building a hot rod, and one that affects the performance of the final product. It is entirely up to you which engine you want to run in your hot rod. Pretty much anything is possible, but not anything will be money and time efficient. Big Block Chevy's have been jammed into little Chevettes, and Chrysler Hemi's have been sandwiched into VW Bugs. With the right tools, mechanical skill, knowledge, money and time, any engine/vehicle combination can be achieved. But most people don't have unlimited amounts of money and most people don't own a fully equipped shop for massive chassis and body modifications to allow the engine to fit. So it would be recommended to pick an engine that's suitable for your application and your skill level. | ||
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| + | ===Stock=== | ||
| + | A lot of people choose to run the stock motor that came in the car. This would be a good idea if it's your first hot rod, if the engine in your car is still in good condition (if it even came with an engine) or if your motor and mechanical skills aren't developed enough yet to undertake an engine swap. Depending on what kind of car you're working with, the stock engine will often suffice, if the car is meant to be a daily driver or a weekend cruiser. If you're planning to build a wild custom car, strip racer, or weekend warrior, the stock engine probably won't be of any interest to you. There are many performance parts available these days for the older popular engines. Anything from Ford Flatheads, Chrysler's Hemi, Mopar Slant 6's, GM Stovebolts, Buick Nailheads, and Ford Small Blocks has a big variety of aftermarket parts available. Well, maybe not Mopar Slant 6's. Taking the stock engine and hopping it up a bit to squeeze a little bit more performance out of it is a very common thing done by a lot of people building a first time hot rod. Just by changing the exhaust, intake and camshaft, a stock boring engine can often become a neat hot rod mill with plenty of power for daily driving and weekend cruising. If your plans for your hot rod include a loud nasty fire breathing monster motor, your stock motor probably won't do a lot for you. Remember, almost every modification for performance will alter fuel consumption and/or reliability. A competition engine is not built to perform on the street as a daily driver. The more radical the modification(s)...the more maintenance is required. Use common sense and make your modifications compatible (carb, heads, cam, etc). | ||
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| + | ===Mild=== | ||
| + | The next step up from a stock motor would be a mild engine. Often times stock motors cross into the mild engine category. The most popular engines used for a mild HP powerplant are Small Block Chevy's, Small Block Fords, and Small Block Mopar's. Any of these three engines are used widely in the hot rodding hobby as well as race venues of all types and they all have a huge choice of aftermarket parts available. They all present a good platform for a first time rebuild or for somebody who needs more than stock. Again, which engine to pick is entirely up to you. Some people swear on the reliability and availability of parts of the Small Block Chevy's, while other people preach a Ford should go in a Ford. Many rodders consider it sacrilegious to put anything but a Mopar in a Dodge, Plymouth or Chrysler. But in the end, it all comes down to your choice. If you find a Small Block Mopar fitting better in your rod than a Ford or Chevy would and if you are able to get one cheap, who's to say you shouldn't use it? There are many books written on rebuilding these 3 engines, and while the choice shouldn't merely be between these 3, they are the most popular. | ||
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| + | ===Wild=== | ||
| + | A lot of rodders prefer their tunes coming from big displacement high horsepower output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost a considerable amount more money than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for Wild engines include the big 3 American car producers: GM, Ford, and Mopar. The 454 Chevy Big Block motor has long been considered the ultimate hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi's and the 427 Ford Big Block have made a big comeback and are all considered perfect candidates for supercharged wild engines. | ||
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| + | == Locating an engine to rebuild == | ||
| + | This section should cover the basics of where to find a potential candidate for an engine rebuilding project. How to search junkyards, classified ads, the internet, etc. | ||
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| + | Locating an engine can be as easy as ordering a shortblock crate engine from Edelbrock on the phone, or removing an old rusty flathead from a totalled car in a junkyard. | ||
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| + | ===Classifieds=== | ||
| + | Probably the best way to go if you don't have an engine hoist, a cherry picker, or some device to lift the engine out of the car. Most newspapers have an Auto Parts section in the classifieds. Often the engines get a section for themselves as well. Usually, the engines sold in classifieds are either pulled already or the owner will pull it for you. This saves you quite a bit of work, time and money. Care should be taken however, to buy a fairly complete engine. The alternator, starter, ac, wiring, intake, carb, fan etc. will all add up to a very big sum of money if purchased separately. Consequently it is advisable for you to buy an engine that comes with all the necessary accessories to make it run. The transmission is another important part when buying an engine from the classifieds. Be sure to check if the engine comes with a transmission, unless you already have one or will be acquiring a different one. Before doing this, you should check to see if the tranny and engine you're buying can be adapted with the proper bellhousing. | ||
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| + | Another good way of finding an engine in the classifieds is by browsing through the car wrecking section. Often times, people will sell cars for parts, or as beaters, or for wrecking. These cars can be had as cheaply as $100. If you're lucky, the engine in them might be half decent. Often times these cars are no longer roadworthy because the body is literally falling apart due to rust, but they're mechanically sound. An advantage to buying a complete donor car is that you get to hear the engine run, the engine is already mated to a working transmission, you can use all the accessories and wiring of the existing car to make the engine run. And if you're lucky you might even find a good use for the rear-end. Sell the interior and seats on eBay or your local classifieds and get a small portion back. The drawback to buying a donor car is that the engine has to be removed, and the car takes up space (which a lot of us just don't have). A disadvantage to buying from the classifieds: you often don't get to hear the engine run (as it's pulled already in a majority of cases). | ||
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| + | ===Scrapyards=== | ||
| + | Scrapyards can be a great resource for locating missing car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Scrapyards are full of cars from the 1970's and 80's waiting to donate their mechanical heart. Scrapyard shopping might be a good idea in order to find the best prices in town. A majority of the cars built during the past 3 decades came equipped with a V8 engine. Now a lot of these old cars are forgotten and thrown into scrapyards. | ||
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| + | ===Networking=== | ||
| + | This might work well if you live in a more rural area where pickings in the classifieds are slim. Talk with anyone who gets out into the boonies on a regular basis and offer them a reward for information leading to an abandoned car or truck. Candidates would include police officers, letter carriers, rural newspaper delivery persons, repairmen who work on high-voltage lines, water meter readers, electrical meter readers, surveyors and so forth. Place a wanted poster in the local hunting or fishing supply store to reach sportsmen. | ||
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| + | Most Chevy, Dodge and Ford trucks from the 70's and 80's came equipped with carbureted (non-EFI) V8's perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, junkyards can be a very rough places in which to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal. | ||
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| + | Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit. | ||
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| + | When choosing an engine, engines with thick amount of surface rust, critical missing parts or a obviously cracked block or heads should be completely avoided . If you can, pick an engine in a car that retains its' hood. A car that has been sitting out in the yard without a hood or a carburetor will have rust built up inside the cylinders from the rain pouring into the engine. The more accessories and parts that are remaining on the engine, the better for future use. Testing the engine to see if it turns over by turning over the crankshaft with a long breaker-bar type wrench is a good way of determining whether the block is frozen or rusted solid. If an engine doesn't turn over, leave it be. | ||
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| + | == Acquisition == | ||
| + | This section should cover what to do after you've decided what engine you're going to use. It might need to be removed, hauled in your vehicle, shipped, etc. | ||
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| + | === Removal === | ||
| + | How to safely and properly pull an engine. | ||
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| + | <em>Engine hoist -- A mechanical device used in the removal and installation of automotive engines. </em> | ||
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| + | *If you have a digital camera, Now would be a good time to take many good photos before you pull it down, for Installation reference,i.e. brackets and wiring. For more information on documenting your project, see: [[How to document your project]]. | ||
| + | *Disconnect the battery. | ||
| + | *Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. Items too large for baggies can be placed in plastic trash bags or cardboard boxes, but above all, label them! Also you can use a felt tip to mark parts..top, bottom, left, right and etc. | ||
| + | *Remove the hood. Don't do it alone...get a neighbor, a buddy, your wife. | ||
| + | *Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment | ||
| + | *Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of coolant properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the radiator, but if you are careful, it is not necessary. | ||
| + | *Disconnect fuel lines, vacuum lines (mark termination and make a written list), wiring (mark termination and make a written list), belts, and pulleys that may be in the way. You can also draw pictures if a camera isn't handy. | ||
| + | *Place a jack under the transmission to keep it upright in the vehicle, unless you are removing it as well. | ||
| + | *If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape. | ||
| + | *Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out. | ||
| + | *Be sure that whatever you are using to lift the engine is strong enough to lift more than the weight of the engine safely, and is on a completely level surface. If outriggers are provided, use them. Be absolutely certain that the lift can not roll on its own, or become unbalanced side-to-side. | ||
| + | *Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended. | ||
| + | *Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage. | ||
| + | *Never store an engine by keeping it in suspension in the hoist as this is an unsafe practice and poses the threat of damaging the hoist. | ||
| + | *Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also). | ||
| + | *If you raise the vehicle USE JACK STANDS SAFELY POSITIONED! | ||
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| + | === Transportation === | ||
| + | How to ship an engine through a third-party shipping service. And, how to safely load, secure, transport, and unload an engine. | ||
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| + | An engine, because of the oil and gasoline residue it holds, is considered hazardous material in the United States and comes under special requirements for shipping documentation. If you do not already know how to do this, it isn't worth your while for one engine. Get somebody who does this regularly (maybe a friendly auto dealer or salvage yard) to do it for you. If you are going to transport the engine/transmission in your own truck, get one or two car tires to sit the item(s) on. It's non-skid, protects the item(s) being transported and allows stabilization when the item(s) are strapped down. | ||
== Disassembly== | == Disassembly== | ||
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