Fiberglassing

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(How much mat to use)
(Types of resins)
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This is resin filled with a high solids, usually colored pigment. It can either serve as a primered surface to be sanded and painted or as in the case of boats, can be the final colored finish. It is sprayed in a polished female mold without reinforcement, then 'glas is laminated on it. It is much softer than plain resin and works like a sanding primer. Good stuff.  
 
This is resin filled with a high solids, usually colored pigment. It can either serve as a primered surface to be sanded and painted or as in the case of boats, can be the final colored finish. It is sprayed in a polished female mold without reinforcement, then 'glas is laminated on it. It is much softer than plain resin and works like a sanding primer. Good stuff.  
  
====Epoxy====
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===Epoxy===
 
Stronger than polyester but more persnickety and expensive. Also check with the supplier for compatibility because some cloths won't work with some resins. This can be used for looks if making a carbon fiber part. Epoxy resin is also tough on your skin and respiratory tract. It's also much harder to work with; vacuum-bagging the parts when laminating is commonly used with epoxy, because it is so much harder to remove all air pockets with rollers or squeegees.
 
Stronger than polyester but more persnickety and expensive. Also check with the supplier for compatibility because some cloths won't work with some resins. This can be used for looks if making a carbon fiber part. Epoxy resin is also tough on your skin and respiratory tract. It's also much harder to work with; vacuum-bagging the parts when laminating is commonly used with epoxy, because it is so much harder to remove all air pockets with rollers or squeegees.
  
====Vinyl ester====
+
===Vinyl ester===
 
This is a stronger version of polyester resin, and somewhere between polyester and epoxy in strength. It has the ease of workability of polyester and compliments the strength of fiberglass much better than polyester. Not usually needed in hotrodding. Vinyl ester is much more heat resistant than either of the polyester resins, and also chemical resistant. It also shrinks alot less, so print-through is less of a problem. If you want to easily make some very strong, rigid, and lightweight parts, use vinyl ester resin, along with either fiberglass mat or cloth, and add a layer of 6 oz carbon fiber in the middle of the laminate.
 
This is a stronger version of polyester resin, and somewhere between polyester and epoxy in strength. It has the ease of workability of polyester and compliments the strength of fiberglass much better than polyester. Not usually needed in hotrodding. Vinyl ester is much more heat resistant than either of the polyester resins, and also chemical resistant. It also shrinks alot less, so print-through is less of a problem. If you want to easily make some very strong, rigid, and lightweight parts, use vinyl ester resin, along with either fiberglass mat or cloth, and add a layer of 6 oz carbon fiber in the middle of the laminate.
  

Revision as of 17:57, 9 September 2009

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