Media blasting

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Contents

[edit] Media blasting tools

[edit] Blast cabinets

[edit] Where to buy them

[edit] How to build them

[edit] Notes
  • Interior coating can be made from something soft, rather than hard (rubber?). Norton Sandblasting Equipment sells rubber curtains for this purpose. Spray-in bedliner has also been suggested.

[edit] Media blasting guns

Zendex Speedblaster

[edit] Where to get media

Locally, online, inexpensive?


  • Hardware stores
  • Welding shops
  • Home Improvement stores
  • Farm-oriented department stores (Tractor Supply Co. and Fleet Farm)

[edit] Dealing with dust

When the blast media wears out, it will create more dust. Also, can use a dust collector.

You need air flowing into the cabinet, as well as out.

Some creative solutions on dealing with dust are here: http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/blasting-cabinet-clouds-up-136430-2.html .

[edit] Blast cabinet visibility

Try an external light or two shining in the blast window, or inside the blast cabinet.

Window can be made of tempered glass, with a replaceable polycarbonate film taped to the inside.

[edit] Shop vacs

You can burn out a shop vac using it to evacuate a blast cabinet -- the media is so small it gets into the motor, and is abrasive. Also, the paper filter gets clogged very quickly. One suggestion is to wrap the filter with a layer of foam (like some car filters). Shop vacs have low CFM compared to most suitable fans, so they aren't going to work very well -- you need a more powerful fan.

[edit] Different types of media

List of various types of blasting media, and their purposes.

[edit] Media details

[edit] Blast media guides

[edit] Soda blasting

Soda blasting is the use of sodium bicarbonate ("baking soda") as a blast medium. For more information, see: Soda blasting.

[edit] Compressed air

Compressed air usage chart

[edit] Sandblasting sheet metal

Sandblasting sheet metal is controversial, and often ill-advised.

  • Prolonged sand blasting of thin sheet metal causes frictional heat (frictional heat, or peening?) that may cause the metal to ding, warp, or pit. Be aware of this if you especially are going to be doing a long, flat, unsupported body panel. The best way to avoid this on long spans is to spread out the blast from the gun so that not one area receives the brunt of the abrasive blast for a long period of time. It also gives it time to cool.
  • Sand creates chloride ions and corrosive salts that promote rust.

[edit] Recycling media

  • Don't recycle media that has been used to blast undercoating -- it contaminates the media.
  • Most media recycles very nicely, with the larger particles breaking down into smaller, sharper ones. Eventually, it will be broken down so far that it cannot diffuse into smaller particles, and the media will have to be replaced.

[edit] Safety

The BARE MINIMUM when doing open-air blasting is- (for when you first start off)

  • Long pants and sleeves
  • Fully enclosed shoes (remember to put your socks over you pants!)
  • A face mask with safety goggles worn underneath
  • Leather Gloves (media doesn't feel the greatest on your hands when coming out at 100PSI+)
  • Respirator (NOT a cheap paper one, the cartridge-type is the one you want)

MUCH BETTER PROTECTION- (when you gain experience/work-load,size)

  • Full coveralls
  • Full blasting mask
  • Long leather gauntlet-type welder' gloves
  • Leather work boots (must be over ankles)

[edit] Resource dump

These need to be reviewed and incorporated into the article. Once each resource has been incorporated, move it into the References section below.

[edit] References


Contributors to this page

Crashfarmer, JerryMopar, Jon

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