Vortec L31 cylinder head

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Keep in mind that these heads were for a roller cammed engine that uses a shorter 7.2 inch push rod, when they are used with a flat tappet cammed engine you need to go back to those longer push rods. The average kid at the parts store probably doesn't know that so if he looks these up by year or type of head the short push rod is what he'll find, so you have to know that the push rod lenght goes with the type cam not the type head.  
 
Keep in mind that these heads were for a roller cammed engine that uses a shorter 7.2 inch push rod, when they are used with a flat tappet cammed engine you need to go back to those longer push rods. The average kid at the parts store probably doesn't know that so if he looks these up by year or type of head the short push rod is what he'll find, so you have to know that the push rod lenght goes with the type cam not the type head.  
  
The valves of this head are the same 1.94 by 1.5 Chevy is so fond of. Depending on cam and compression these heads are a 20 to 50 horsepower bolt on. They have very good midlift flow but run flat over .5 inch so going that much or beyond with the lift is of little value without porting them. They very much respond to a 30 degree back cut on the valve's seat, both intake and exhaust, this is very effective on a long duration cam that lifts from .45 to .5 inch at the valve. A split duration cam is also of value as the exhaust flow didn't improve compared to the intake so that side can use a little extra blow down time moreso than extra lift.
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The valves of this head are the same 1.94" by 1.50" that Chevy is so fond of. Depending on cam and compression these heads are a 20 to 50 horsepower bolt on. They have very good midlift flow but run flat over .5 inch so going that much or beyond with the lift is of little value without porting them. They very much respond to a 30 degree back cut on the valve's seat, both intake and exhaust, this is very effective on a long duration cam that lifts from .45 to .5 inch at the valve. A split duration cam is also of value as the exhaust flow didn't improve compared to the intake so that side can use a little extra blow down time moreso than extra lift.
  
The chamber burns fast compared to previous heads, you'll find its happiest with total spark lead of 34 to 36 degrees. The chamber is very detonation resistant compared to earlier chambers many guys run 9.5 or a little more with a squish/quench clearance of .040 to .035 inch. Flat tops or D dish pistons work best compared to the factory round dish pistons because those have too much of their squish/quench surface contribution too far from the head to be effective.
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The chamber burns fast compared to previous heads, you'll find its happiest with total spark lead of 34 to 36 degrees. The chamber is very detonation resistant compared to earlier chambers many guys run 9.5 or a little more with a squish/quench clearance of 0.035" to 0.040". Flat tops or D dish pistons work best compared to the factory round dish pistons because those have too much of their squish/quench surface contribution too far from the head to be effective.
  
 
Have them checked for cracks, they don't like to be overheated, if these are used heads and have been overheated the chances of cracking is super high. They also like 4 corner coolant return, there are kits that make this quite easy to install. A pair of fittings on the rear of the manifold over the coolant return opening of the head that can be connected to the intake's forward return before the thermostat. Or they can be plumbed into the heater/bypass circuit. This prevents coolant vapor bubbles from collecting above the rear cylinders causing them to run hotter than desired. This is almost as good for power as the 4/7 timing swap without the cost of the cam, your valves and piston on number 7 will thank you."
 
Have them checked for cracks, they don't like to be overheated, if these are used heads and have been overheated the chances of cracking is super high. They also like 4 corner coolant return, there are kits that make this quite easy to install. A pair of fittings on the rear of the manifold over the coolant return opening of the head that can be connected to the intake's forward return before the thermostat. Or they can be plumbed into the heater/bypass circuit. This prevents coolant vapor bubbles from collecting above the rear cylinders causing them to run hotter than desired. This is almost as good for power as the 4/7 timing swap without the cost of the cam, your valves and piston on number 7 will thank you."
 
  
 
Bogie
 
Bogie

Revision as of 20:09, 1 April 2015

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