TH350 rebuild tech

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(Format; add text; minor clean up.)
(Format, add text; minor clean up.)
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Also of note, if you are using almost any aftermarket kit, these kits use a feed plate between the support plate in front of the valve body and the separator plate. This feed plate dual feeds the directs and plugging this hole is unnecessary. Also most manual valve bodies, trans-brakes, etc. will have you omit the direct drum center seal and the sealing ring on the stator but plugging of this hole is also unnecessary due to the design of the separator plate.
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'''NOTE:''' If you are using almost any aftermarket kit, these kits use a feed plate between the support plate in front of the valve body and the separator plate. This feed plate dual feeds the directs and plugging this hole is unnecessary. Also most manual valve bodies, trans-brakes, etc. will have you omit the direct drum center seal and the sealing ring on the stator but plugging of this hole is also unnecessary due to the design of the separator plate.
  
Don't assume you need to plug this hole. Only plug this hole if you plan on building a unit yourself.
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Don't assume you need to plug this hole. Only plug this hole if you plan on doing the dual feed modification yourself.
  
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
 
You can omit the center seal, plug this passage, enlarge the 2nd and 3rd feed holes in the stock separator plate and you will have greatly increased the torque capacity of a stock TH350 as well as gained a firmer shift.
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Use care using the lip seal tool, I use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a good air check.
 
Use care using the lip seal tool, I use a push-in technique more than a work-around-the-drum technique. If you slide around the drum, and it catches the seal it will cut it and then you must get a new lip seal and start again. Good lighting, patience, and technique are key here, and a good air check.
  
Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer.
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Once you have the piston seated in the drum you can install the return springs and retainer. You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured below, or use 2 or 3, 5" or larger C-clamps (much more of a PITA).
  
 
[[file:TH350directspringtool.jpg]]
 
[[file:TH350directspringtool.jpg]]
  
You can buy or make a tool similar to the one pictured or use 2-3, 5" or larger C-clamps (much more of a PITA).
 
  
 
===Forward drum inspection===
 
===Forward drum inspection===

Revision as of 21:03, 25 March 2012

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