Editing Straightening a rear end housing
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Here's how to make a fixture and rack for straightening a rear end housing. | Here's how to make a fixture and rack for straightening a rear end housing. | ||
==Building a straightening table== | ==Building a straightening table== | ||
− | The | + | The cart pictured below is an old gas cylinder cart, bought at a garage sale. An I-beam is welded to the gas cylinder cart. |
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[[Image:Axle_straightening_table.jpg|frame|none|A gas cylinder cart, converted for straightening rear end housings.]] | [[Image:Axle_straightening_table.jpg|frame|none|A gas cylinder cart, converted for straightening rear end housings.]] | ||
+ | To prevent any mishaps involving slippage and gravity, common jackstands are cut up to wrap the leg of the I-beam. | ||
+ | [[Image:Modified_jackstands.jpg|frame|none|Basic inexpensive jackstands are modified to wrap the I-beam for stability.]] | ||
− | + | A straight bar is necessary. This hardened and chrome-plated bar is about five feet long, and 1.5" in diameter. It's available from McMaster-Carr for about $115.00. Alternatively, an old length of scrap steel shafting can be used. V-blocks and a dial indicator can be used to verify that a used bar is straight. | |
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− | A straight bar is necessary. This hardened and chrome-plated bar is about five feet long, and 1.5" in diameter. It's available from McMaster-Carr for about $115.00. Alternatively, an old length of scrap steel shafting can be used. V-blocks and a dial indicator can be used to verify that a used bar is straight. | + | |
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[[Image:Hardened_bar.jpg|frame|none|A hardened and chrome plated steel bar.]] | [[Image:Hardened_bar.jpg|frame|none|A hardened and chrome plated steel bar.]] | ||
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==Making the inserts== | ==Making the inserts== | ||
− | Then, make some inserts. These are about 2" long, as to provide some load bearing area to lessen wear caused by repeated use. For this application (10-bolt Chevrolet), the ID is 1.504", and the OD is 2.894". | + | Then, make some inserts. These are about 2" long, as to provide some load bearing area to lessen wear caused by repeated use. For this application (10-bolt Chevrolet), the ID is 1.504", and the OD is 2.894". |
+ | [[Image:Making_inserts_in_lathe.jpg|frame|none|Making the inserts in a lathe.]] | ||
− | + | Another insert was made with the same 1.504" ID, and dimensioned to slip-fit into the housing end. This same set of inserts and matching bar can be used as an alignment aid when narrowing rear end housings. | |
− | + | The inserts are then clamped in the bearing saddles, and the bar slides through them. The fit should be nice -- the bar should slide through easily, but with no noticeable play. | |
− | + | [[Image:Straight_bar_in_inserts.jpg|frame|none|The straight bar, in the inserts.]] | |
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− | The inserts are then clamped in the bearing saddles and the bar slides through them. The fit should be | + | |
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− | [[Image:Straight_bar_in_inserts.jpg|frame|none|The straight bar, in the inserts | + | |
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==Measuring== | ==Measuring== | ||
− | The housing end insert slides over the bar and indicates how much the end of the housing is bent out of alignment. | + | The housing end insert slides over the bar, and indicates how much the end of the housing is bent out of alignment. |
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[[Image:Housing_end_insert_slid_over_bar.jpg|frame|none|The housing end insert is used to indicate the alignment of the housing.]] | [[Image:Housing_end_insert_slid_over_bar.jpg|frame|none|The housing end insert is used to indicate the alignment of the housing.]] | ||
− | + | Hold a ruler on the tube, to see where it's bent. In this case, it's bent at the areas that were welded by the previous "builder". | |
− | Hold a ruler on the tube to see where it's bent. In this case, it's bent at the areas that were welded by the previous "builder". | + | |
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[[Image:Finding_housing_bend.jpg|frame|none|A ruler is used to see where the tube is bent.]] | [[Image:Finding_housing_bend.jpg|frame|none|A ruler is used to see where the tube is bent.]] | ||
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==Heating and bending== | ==Heating and bending== | ||
− | Next, rig a chain at the point of bend and put a 12-ton bottle jack under the end of the axle. To prevent bending the center casing, attach the rear cover | + | Next, rig a chain at the point of bend, and put a 12-ton bottle jack under the end of the axle. To prevent bending the center casing, attach the rear cover. |
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[[Image:Bottle_jack_and_chain.jpg|frame|none|A bottle jack and chain are used for bending.]] | [[Image:Bottle_jack_and_chain.jpg|frame|none|A bottle jack and chain are used for bending.]] | ||
− | + | Then, jack up the housing into perfect alignment with the housing end insert, and heat a band all the way around the tube, until it's red-hot. Let the tube cool while it's still supported by the jack. | |
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[[Image:Heating_the_axle_tube.jpg|frame|none|Heat a band all the way around the tube.]] | [[Image:Heating_the_axle_tube.jpg|frame|none|Heat a band all the way around the tube.]] | ||
[[Image:Red_hot_band.jpg|frame|none|A red-hot band indicating proper and even heating of the tube.]] | [[Image:Red_hot_band.jpg|frame|none|A red-hot band indicating proper and even heating of the tube.]] | ||
In this case, when the tube cooled, the housing end was only a few thousandths of an inch off, and was easily bent into alignment cold, using only the bottle jack. This housing was initially out by almost 1/4" on one side, and 3/16" on the other. Now, the housing end slips on with minimal effort. | In this case, when the tube cooled, the housing end was only a few thousandths of an inch off, and was easily bent into alignment cold, using only the bottle jack. This housing was initially out by almost 1/4" on one side, and 3/16" on the other. Now, the housing end slips on with minimal effort. | ||
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[[Image:Insert_fits_properly.jpg|frame|none|The housing end slips on with minimal effort.]] | [[Image:Insert_fits_properly.jpg|frame|none|The housing end slips on with minimal effort.]] | ||
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