Starter motors

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(Battery terminals)
 
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First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below).
 
First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below).
  
Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons.
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Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes - this includes the 1996-2014 4.3L since the cast aluminum oil pan does not have enough room for use with a 153 tooth starter motor. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons.
  
 
==Starter noses==
 
==Starter noses==
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{|
 
{|
|[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb|300px|Cast iron nose left, aluminum nose right. Note the difference in the depth of the two noses; only the cast iron nose can be used with a manual tranny bellhousing]]
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|[[File:153 vs168starter.jpg|thumb|245px|153 tooth starter "straight across" bolt pattern left, 168 tooth "staggered" bolt pattern starter right]]
|[[File:Block starter pad.jpg|thumb|400px|Block mounted starter holes]]
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|[[File:Block starter pad.jpg|thumb|400px|Block mounted starter holes: '''''both''''' use the blue circled hole; staggered starter uses the black circled hole]]
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|[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb|330px|Cast iron nose left, aluminum nose right. Note the difference in the depth of the two noses; only the cast iron nose can be used with a manual tranny bellhousing]]  
 
|}
 
|}
  
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==What to do if the block is broken==
 
==What to do if the block is broken==
There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers (possibly others as well) also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68.
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There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers (possibly others as well) also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. This can also be used on the SBC 265 block that has no provision for a block mounted starter.
 
{|
 
{|
 
|[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]]  
 
|[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]]  
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==Starter brace==
 
==Starter brace==
 
{|
 
{|
|[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace]]
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|[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace (BBC similar)]]
 
|[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]]
 
|[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]]
 
|}
 
|}
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A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing.  
 
A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing.  
 
   
 
   
The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block deck and head meet.
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The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block and head decks meet.
  
 
==Fasteners==
 
==Fasteners==
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===Adjustment===
 
===Adjustment===
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A noisy starter may be because the gears are meshing too close. The use of shims reduces the noise by increasing the distance between the gears.
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When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this.
 
When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this.
A noisy starter is because the gears are too close the use of shims reduced the noise by increasing the distance between the gears.
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A page on how and why to use shims is [[Media:Delco_remy_starter_shim_bulletin_tbstr01-2.pdf|'''here''']].
  
 
==GM starter solenoid==
 
==GM starter solenoid==
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===Battery terminals===
 
===Battery terminals===
[[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on replacement battery terminals are to be avoided!]]Do not be tempted to save money by using one (or more) of the cheap, clamp-on style battery cable terminals. Even if they are tight and look fine, all too often they will cause high resistance and can make it seem like the battery is bad, etc. If the terminal fails on a cable there are better terminals that may be used to replace them, or the entire cable can be replaced with a cable having a larger diameter and quality terminals already installed.
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[[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|]] Clamp-on style battery cable terminals have received a bad reputation simply due to the fact that they have been used incorrectly. A typical installation would involve trimming back the insulation on the battery cable, putting in under the clamp and tightening the bolts. Then the terminal would be placed on the battery post and in most cases, it will not fit correctly.
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The correct way to use these terminals is actually rather easy but it does require some tools, materials and skills. You will need to verify that the battery cable can be trimmed back a minimal of an inch and still make the connection to the battery without stressing the cable due to it being too short. You want to remove at least an inch of the cable to expose a section of the cable that has not been exposed to any corrosion. With cable length trimmed, you now will trim a 1/2" section of the insulation away from the cable exposing the wire. Next is taking a soldering iron or gun along with the correct solder (non-acid type) and applying a small amount of solder to the exposed cable end. You should end up with a shiny look to the soldering operation. At this point, you will need to verify the fit of the terminal on the battery post, in most cases you will find that the terminal will not fit all the way down on to the terminal. A battery post reamer tool is a quick and easy way to open up the inside of the terminal. With the clinch bolt loose, you want the terminal to slide all the way down on the post and make full contact. Once this has been done, you can now connect the cable to the terminal, tighten the bolts snug and then tighten the clamp bolt. You now have a battery terminal connection that is done correctly.
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===Grounds===
 
===Grounds===
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[[Category:Troubleshooting]]
 
[[Category:Troubleshooting]]
 
[[Category:Undeveloped Electrical articles]]
 
[[Category:Undeveloped Electrical articles]]
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[[Category:Undeveloped Engine articles]]
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[[Category:Undeveloped Troubleshooting articles]]

Latest revision as of 22:39, 28 January 2019

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