Shortening a drive shaft

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when building a car from mixed pieces or after doing and engine-trans swap you usually need a new drive shaft. drive line vendors have info posted on how to measure the length you need. usually install the trans yoke all the way in then pull it out 1/2 inch then measure between U joints. For the The next step I get out the dial calipers , measure the U joints required then head to the parts pile or the the local wrecking yard and start measuring,  There are conversion U joints that have opposite sides  different sizes,  I check out the rack and also don't forget to check out light and medium trucks. I have found 1/2 of a 2 piece truck drive shaft that fit one of my project. If you don't find one to fit then look for a longer one with minimun balance weights. If the factory got it close enough with out weights you will have better luck getting it balanced. I lay the drive shaft on the work table then align a piece of angle iron next to it and scribe a line all the way along the shaft and get good lines on the end yokes. I figure out how much needs to be removed then chuck it into the lathe and cut the rear axle end part way thru on the factory weld. , Next measure  and make a scribe cut at the proper place. Next I polish the area next to the cuts so I will have a good surface to weld, I like my home made steady rest, wood V block,  an old leather belt and grease. I make the finish cuts going slow, Next I align the scribe marks, tap the shaft together with a plastic mallet then make tack welds. check, then finish weld. I also like a drive shaft safety hoop, just in case. I have never had a drive shaft break, even after a hard wheelie bent the rear wishbones.
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When building a car from mixed pieces or after doing and engine-trans swap you usually need a new drive shaft. Drive line vendors have info posted on how to measure the length you need. Usually install the trans yoke all the way in then pull it out 1/2 inch then measure between U joints. ( Anon edit: I did this professionally for a year, the correct amount is 1". Then measure the distance between the joint centers.)
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For the The next step I get out the dial calipers , measure the U joints required then head to the parts pile or the the local wrecking yard and start measuring,  There are conversion U joints that have opposite sides  different sizes,  I check out the rack and also don't forget to check out light and medium trucks. I have found 1/2 of a 2 piece truck drive shaft that fit one of my project. If you don't find one to fit then look for a longer one with minimum balance weights. If the factory got it close enough with out weights you will have better luck getting it balanced.  
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I lay the drive shaft on the work table then align a piece of angle iron next to it and scribe a line all the way along the shaft and get good lines on the end yokes. I figure out how much needs to be removed then chuck it into the lathe and cut the rear axle end part way thru on the factory weld. Next measure  and make a scribe cut at the proper place. Next I polish the area next to the cuts so I will have a good surface to weld, I like my home made steady rest, wood V block,  an old leather belt and grease. I make the finish cuts going slow, Next I align the scribe marks, tap the shaft together with a plastic mallet then make tack welds. check, then finish weld.  
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I also like a drive shaft safety hoop, just in case. I have never had a drive shaft break, even after a hard wheelie bent the rear wishbones.
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[[Category:Undeveloped articles]]

Latest revision as of 19:59, 22 December 2011

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