Editing Rust (section)
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===Electrolysis=== Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) Need: a plastic tub, iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: *plastic PVC pipes *large 2x4 wood boxes lined with plastic sheeting *suspend an electrode in a cavity *use a sponge soaked in the electrolyte solution, with a backing electrode, for objects that can't be submerged. The powder used is a mild alkali. ====Resources==== *[[Electrolytic rust removal]] Crankshaft Coalition wiki article *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html *http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html *http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm *http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html *http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/other-articles/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/electrolytic-rust-removal-revisited-163423.html
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