Editing Rust (section)
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==Methods== ===Body panel rust removal=== Ideally, only surface rust on body panels is "treated". Anything more than that would mean that the affected area would be cut out, and replaced with fresh metal. ====Removing surface rust from body panels==== First, remove all the heavy surface rust with a DA sander and 80-180 grit paper. To remove surface rust, use naval jelly (jelled phosphoric acid) and steel wool. #Work in small areas, not larger than a square foot. Wear rubber gloves, and scrub with naval jelly and steel wool. #Apply jelly with 000 steel wool, rub it in, and allow it to set for a couple of minutes. Don't let it dry. Keep it wet, using a squirt bottle. For inclines, you can also soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly. #Rub again with steel wool. Repeat a few times. #When finished, wipe off the excess naval jelly with a paper towel, squirt on warm soapy water, and dry thoroughly. #Wipe down with lacquer thinner. #Sand with 180 grit. #Use wax and grease remover, and then spray with epoxy primer. #From there, you can apply body filler (the epoxy may need to be scuffed, read instructions). #When the filler work is done, scuff with a red scotch-brite pad. #Then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. ====Cutting out rust==== First, make a tape template. Tape off the area that's going to be cut off, leaving a healthy border of good metal. Transfer the tape template to the patch panel, in one piece. Cut out the templated piece from the patch panel. Then, screw the cut-out piece to the car as a temporary guide. From there, rough-shape the patched piece. Cut some slits if necessary, and hammer. Then, make the cut on the body panel, with the patch still screwed to the car. Then, unscrew the panel from the car, and hammer-form it on a bench, anvil, etc. Finally, butt-weld it back onto the car. Weld, with lots of spread-out spot welds (wait for them to cool), so the panel doesn't warp. Then, grind down the welds. Treat with rust protection, then body filler, primer, etc. A quarter panel rust fix demonstrating the above is illustrated here: http://www.a2zautoforums.com/showthread.php?t=700 ====Treating light body rust (from storing panels) prior to epoxy==== Sand with 80 grit, wash with wax and grease remover. Use waterborne wax and grease remover, instead of solvent-borne (research exactly what that means), let set 15-30 minutes. Dry with a blower and a tack rag. Spray epoxy. ====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== ''(Need more info on Redi-Strip. What chemical do they use? What's the cost? Can a hobbyist acquire and use the same chemical that Redi-Strip uses? When the body is returned to you, is it truly completely clean, or does it have to be cleaned to get all of the chemical removed from nooks and crannies, etc.?)'' ====Quick fix for exposed areas (dents, etc.)==== If a dent causes an area of bare metal to be exposed. To "hold" it so it won't rust until a paint job is ready to be done: gently bump out the dent, sand, rattle can primer, rattle can sealer. ====Do both sides of a panel have to be treated with rust converter/encapsulator?==== Explain this. ====Removing pitted rust in body panels==== See: [[pitted rust]]. ====Fixing rust holes in body panels==== See: [[pitted rust]]. ====Storing body panels==== Use epoxy primer (aka "epoxy primer/sealer"), it won't allow rust. Not the same as regular primer. Wet-sand down to 400 grit, wash/dry, grind down rust to bare metal, apply body filler where needed, blow off, clean with prep-sol or similar cleaner, tape it up, and prime with epoxy primer. ====Removing rust in seams==== A spot blaster is useful. To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. ====Accessing rust between interior panels==== Pressure washer with pencil tip can knock everything loose out. Drill small holes, get a spray wand with a 360-degree head. Then, when done, weld the holes shut. Turn panels around to slosh rust remover around. Blow compressed air inside the panel. Cut hole in panel? Spray rust killer with garden sprayer? A mirror can be used to check areas for rust. Don't spray expanding foam. It absorbs water, and will cause more rust. It can also expand and cause the panels to push out. ====How to treat rusty drip-rails?==== #blast #wash with wax and grease remover #spray with 2 coats of epoxy #spray with seam sealer ====Plasma spray welding==== With plasma spray welding, metal wire is converted to sprayable form, and used to repair rust holes, fill panel joints, and blend patch panels. One example is the machine sold by [http://www.rustbustersllc.com Rustbusters]. ====Rusted window channels==== ''(Difficult to fabricate, need more info on this.)'' ===Vinyl tops=== Rust is common in vinyl tops. The vinyl gets porous after a few years, and lets in moisture. ''(How to prevent?)'' Vaseline ,push it in between the moldings around the top and wipe off excess.Spray a heavy oil around Landau /opera windows let sit and wipe off excess any little tears should also have a drop of silicone pushed in them to avoid moisture. ===Leaf spring rust=== Remove rust, then, ideally, paint them separately. Re-assemble with teflon strips. ===Preventing rust at chassis to ground connection=== Silicone dielectric grease, electrical bonding paste; spray well with clear lacquer after bonding the connection. ===Cleaning light surface rust off crankshaft=== Have a machine shop polish the journals. May require a regrind to the next correct bearing size prior to polishing depending on tolerances. Using a decent regular flow of CRC 5.56 or a PTFE type spray and an M3 grey scotchy (then try green scotchbrite if need) rubbed in direction of crank travel, localised to effected area. Mask off area with masking tape to prevent scratching unaffected areas if necessary. Rust is tough, and large areas vigourously rubbed (mechanically or otherwise) may cause damage to the finish of the journal. Initial contact needs to be with clean CRC rinsed rag, keep the journal area clean and use a light touch, buffing in one direction until the initial rust colour no longer shows. If sand paper is to be employed, try starting with 2000 grit (no less than 1200 grit), change paper regularly, and keep the strokes light. You are only removing the outer scale, you are not resurfacing the journal just rubbing out rust. Phosphoric acid localised can help in any pits. Acids on hardened steels can cause embrittlement so dont leave it on long, only enough to blacken the rust. Afterwards switching to a microfibre rag with a product like Autosol, Blue Magic or even Brasso, you can polish out any minor scratches on the journal. Steel wool usually isn't recommended as it can scratch the journal finish, and it creates fine particles that must be throuoghly cleaned from the crank. If rust is more than 0.005" deep get it resurfaced. Also- * Very fine steel wool or scotchbrite pad, and light oil. Rub around the journals in the direction of rotation, not across. * Cut 600 grit wet or dry sandpaper into strips the width of the crank journals. Wrap it around the journal, and secure it with tape. Then, make a strap from leather, about one-half the width of the sandpaper strips. Use the strap on the paper in a shoeshine motion. Finish off with some light oil on the sandpaper. Do a few strokes first, then clean the paper, because the rust will clog the sandpaper. ''(LP3 as rust inhibitor on crankshafts?)'' ===Electrolysis=== Advantages: self-limiting (can't remove too much), safe (low electrical current), won't harm good metal, not an acid (less dangerous, and no risk of hydrogen embrittlement) Need: a plastic tub, iron electrode, water and washing soda (sodium carbonate), and a batter charger. About 1 tablespoon of soda per gallon of water. Can't find washing soda, then lye will work. Wear eye protection and protect skin too. Connect the electrode to the positive battery terminal. Connect the rusted object to the negative terminal. Submerge the object. Make sure the contact is good (may need to clean off some of the rust from the rusty part). Typically takes a few hours, but can take up to overnight. Rinse or scrub with brush to remove final rust debris. May need to re-treat. Oil, wax, or prime soon after. Surface of rusted metals is black after treatment. Be creative to clean oddly-shaped objects: *plastic PVC pipes *large 2x4 wood boxes lined with plastic sheeting *suspend an electrode in a cavity *use a sponge soaked in the electrolyte solution, with a backing electrode, for objects that can't be submerged. The powder used is a mild alkali. ====Resources==== *[[Electrolytic rust removal]] Crankshaft Coalition wiki article *http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm *http://hotrodders.com/forum/rust-removal-lower-arms-other-suspension-parts-108384.html *http://www.davidbradley.net/ERR.html *http://antique-engines.com/trailer-electrolysis.htm *http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html *http://www.fordmuscle.com/forums/other-articles/467718-rust-removal-electrolysis.html *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/electrolytic-rust-removal-revisited-163423.html ===How to remove rust from chrome=== *Mag wheel polish, or [http://www.turtlewax.com/main.taf?p=2,1,4,12 Turtle Wax Chrome Polish]. *Fine steel wool, scotch-brite pads, crumpled-up pieces of aluminum foil. ===Preventing engine rust=== Engine storage spray, or wipe down with [http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/ Marvel Mystery Oil]. Cylinder walls with flash rust: Marvel Mystery Oil, steel wool, etc. Pitted rusting will necessitate a rebuild. ===How to de-rust gas tanks=== Put a handful of nuts and bolts in, chain, chainsaw blade, etc., and shake it around a bit to knock out the loose stuff. Not too aggressive -- you'll dent the tank. Then, clean with phosphoric acid. Pour it in, let it sit for up to an hour, then flush with water and baking soda to neutralize. Or, Eastwood has a kit for this: an acid to clean it, and then something to coat it with. However, some people say that the coating can clog up the fuel filter, or trash your OEM sending unit. The best way to do it is to take it out and get it re-tinned. ===How to clean engine water jackets or radiator of rust=== Flush with CLR, Kool Klean (can't find). Manufacturers of CLR say that it shouldn't be used in a radiator: http://www.jelmar.com/CLRbasic.asp . When building an engine, to prevent rust: when done washing it and blowing it dry, oil it down, and store it in a plastic bag -- sealed ''(confirm this)''. ==="Oiling" your car=== In climates that are more prone to rust, cars are sometimes "oiled". Rocker panels, doors, and other body passages are drilled and sprayed inside with oil, used oil, or gelled oil substances. Entire frame and suspension are also oiled. Can be done yearly in very rust-prone climates. Historically, this procedure has been used before driving the car down a dirt road. The dirt sticks to the oil on the underside of the vehicle, providing an effective sealing layer. Consider how, when removing a dirty, oily gasket, the metal beneath it is clean. Same concept. Now, this might be done with an application-specific undercarriage wax or oil. ===Preventing MIG wire rust=== Store in a bag with some dessicant packets. Here's a list of dessicants: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_desiccants List of dessicants]. Also, can use small old refrigerator with 100 watt bulb inside, for storing rods and wires. Stays about 100 degrees. Small fan inside too. ===Underside rust removal=== Best not to do this as overhead work. Tilt the car on a rotisserie, or raise it significantly overhead. Another option is to keep the car low to the ground, and, with plastic sheeting and duct tape, seal the area between car and floor. Leave the rear area of the plastic "tent" open for access. At the front of the "tent", affix a shop vac hose (exhaust). Blast. ===Rustproofing brake rotors=== Zinc dip, also Eastwood has some solutions? Research this. ===Axle tube rust=== When rebuilding a rear end, the rust can be cleaned out with naval jelly/shoving rags down it with a broomstick. ===Cleaning hand tools=== Tumble in a cement mixer with oil and sand. Or, soak in a bucket with parts cleaner or paint thinner. ===Rust prevention on tools=== Keep tools in a wooden toolbox. Also, use a shop dehumidifier. Avoid dust on your tools, as it can attract moisture, and thus, rust. ===Electronic rust inhibition=== *[http://www.counteractrust.com/ CounterAct Electronic Rust Protection]? *[http://www.ruststopnorthamerica.com/electronic-rustproofing-rust-proofing.htm Rust Stop North America] ''(This is known as [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection cathodic protection]. Research this. And: [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sacrificial_anode sacrificial anode] and [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_anode galvanic anode].)'' ===Frame rust=== Sandblasting or dipping is best. Then, stripping wheel or wire wheel is next-best. Can be professionally sandblasted and powder-coated for ~$250 at a good price. Patching is usually not worthwhile, unless it's a special or valuable frame. Too easy to replace, and too much potential structural damage. Has to be done perfectly. Can be replaced with steel of the same gauge as the original frame, and welded in to place. Where is the rust on the frame? In a critical stress area? How bad is it? For minor surface rusting, with mostly metal showing through, it's OK to just powder-coat it. OR: #blast/wire wheel #phosphoric acid #clean off acid with thinner #etching primer #epoxy primer ====Cleaning the inside of a boxed, open-ended frame==== Blow out all the dirt, etc. Then, attach a strong towel to some strong cord. Soak the towel with rust treatment chemical, and pull it through the frame. ===Media blasting rust=== See: [[Media blasting]]. *Sand is not recommended for media blasting panels. It acts like little hammers, warping panels with compressive forces (analagous to hail). It can be done, but extreme caution must be used. Sand also dulls as it is used, which reduces its cutting efficiency with each reuse. *Use softer media (list examples): **55 grit silica-based media **[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sugar_sand Sugar sand] is finer and less-damaging than regular sand. *Can sandblasting "increase" rust? Or, if the rust is removed and the metal is sealed, shouldn't it be eliminated? Some thoughts on this are: **Although sandblasting may appear to have removed all the rust to the naked eye, it hasn't really done so. **It's caused by water in the air compressor line, as sand will harbor some moisture. Also, compressed air contains moisture. And, sand has salt in it. A moisture trap in the line should solve the problem with the water in the air line. **Sand by hand after sandblasting, to eliminate this issue. *Many panels have seams, hems, and bends that are inaccessible by blasting, and can hold moisture and rust. A spot blaster is recommended. *One option is to use chemical paint stripper, then use a sandblaster to lightly "dust" the remaining rust. *Media blasting can remove good metal from body panels too. Also, used media can have metal particles left in the media. *Soda blasting can remove light rust, and won't warp panels. However, when soda blasting body panels, the resultant film can negatively affect finish adhesion. For more details, see: [[Soda blasting]].
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