Replacing the fuel pump in a small-block Chevy engine

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There are two holes in the passenger side front of the engine. The top bolt hole will align with the fuel pump push rod and will have a 3/8" x 3/4" bolt in it.
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There are two holes in the passenger side front of the engine. The top bolt hole will align with the fuel pump push rod and will have a 3/8" x 3/4" bolt in it.
  
This bolt needs to be removed and a longer 3/8" bolt installed in its place.
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This bolt needs to be removed and a longer 3/8" bolt installed in its place. Some block assemblies are supplied from the factory with a 3/8" by 7/8" bolt with (2) thick washers under the head allowing the OEM bolt to be re-inserted without the washers to secure the rod in place. Once the (2) fuel pump mounting bolts are tightened, the bolt securing the push rod can be removed and re-inserted with the washers under the head thereby preventing contact with the rod but sealing the hole.
  
 
The longer bolt is to gently hold the fuel pump push rod in the retracted position- pushed in towards to center of the engine.
 
The longer bolt is to gently hold the fuel pump push rod in the retracted position- pushed in towards to center of the engine.
  
The camshaft has a cam on it that causes the push rod to move in and out- it is what makes the pump, "pump". This cam needs to be positioned in such a way that the rod is furthest back, away from the pump. While this isn't absolutely necessary (I'd try it first with out rotating the engine), it can make installing the pump a little easier.
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The camshaft has a lobe on it that causes the fuel pump push rod to move in and out- it is what makes the pump, "pump". Total travel of the pump rod is about 0.394' (10 mm). This lobe needs to be positioned in such a way that the rod is furthest back, away from the pump (distributor rotor between firing position one and two and the fuel pump push rod should be on the cam base circle). While this isn't absolutely necessary (I'd try it first with out rotating the engine), it can make installing the pump a little easier.
  
So, with the longer bolt in the upper hole, carefully tighten the bolt until it contacts and holds the push rod from sliding back out against the spacer plate.
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So, with the longer bolt in the upper hole, carefully tighten the bolt until it contacts and holds the push rod from sliding back out against the spacer plate, remember just finger tigth or you'll bend and or nick the push rod.
  
 
Remove the fuel lines, plug them to prevent dirt from entering.
 
Remove the fuel lines, plug them to prevent dirt from entering.
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Once the fuel pump mounting bolts are started, tighten them evenly (one side then the other) until the pump meets the spacer.
 
Once the fuel pump mounting bolts are started, tighten them evenly (one side then the other) until the pump meets the spacer.
  
DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt holding the push rod. Replace the original bolt into the same hole, with a little sealer on the threads. IF THE SMALLER 3/8" X 3/4" BOLT IS NOT PUT BACK INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK. AS THE FUEL PUMP PUSH ROD TRAVELS UP AND DOWN TO ACTIVE THE FUEL PUMP. THE ENGINE OIL PUMP WILL VERY QUICKLY PUMP OUT ALL OF THE ENGINE OIL. IF NOT CAUGHT BEFORE THE OIL IS DEPLETED, YOU CAN SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS. AND THE ENGINE WILL NEED TO BE OVERHAULED. ESPECIALLY IF DRIVING AT HIGHWAY SPEEDS.  
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DO NOT forget to remove the longer bolt holding the push rod. Replace the original bolt into the same hole, with a little sealer on the threads.
  
 
Reattach the fuel lines- do not use teflon tape.
 
Reattach the fuel lines- do not use teflon tape.
  
 
[[Category:Engine]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]
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[[Category:GM]]

Latest revision as of 13:17, 28 April 2018

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