Remote Ford solenoid for GM- no hot start
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===Using a remote solenoid=== | ===Using a remote solenoid=== | ||
| − | Also when the battery is trunk-mounted, it's a good idea to use a remote Ford solenoid/relay. This will keep the run of heavy cable to the starter from being always "hot". | + | Also when the battery is trunk-mounted, it's a good idea to use a remote Ford solenoid/relay. This will keep the run of heavy cable from the battery up to the starter from being always "hot". |
[[File:REMOTE RELAY.jpg|frame|left|Basic wiring diagram for remote solenoid]] | [[File:REMOTE RELAY.jpg|frame|left|Basic wiring diagram for remote solenoid]] | ||
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| − | + | {{Note1}}If for some reason you want to keep your vehicle all GM, use a Standard p/n U939 solenoid like the one pictured below. They were used in some GM powered motor homes: | |
| − | [[Image:Standard_PN_U939.jpg ]] | + | [[Image:Standard_PN_U939.jpg]] |
===Original GM wiring configuration=== | ===Original GM wiring configuration=== | ||
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==Other possible cures== | ==Other possible cures== | ||
| − | The wiring has to be in good condition | + | The wiring has to be in good condition. This means no frayed wiring, tight high quality terminals, no wires of insufficient size, no parts store clamp-on replacement battery terminals (the #1 cause of "bad starters"). |
| − | Throughout the electrical system there needs to be tight connections, a properly working charging system including the battery, and a good starting system. Grounds have to have direct contact with bare metal and be of a sufficient gauge for the job. | + | Throughout the electrical system there needs to be tight connections, a properly working charging system including the battery, and a good starting system. Grounds have to have direct contact with bare metal and be of a sufficient gauge for the job. Use the voltage drop calculator link below (under '''Resources''')to determine if the wire gauge is sufficient. |
If the problem remains even after the remote Ford relay/solenoid is installed, a starter heat shield may help. Another option is a "permanent magnet" starter. They're less inclined to suffer from heat soak. Then there's the heavy duty "high torque" mini starters- also permanent magnet type starters. | If the problem remains even after the remote Ford relay/solenoid is installed, a starter heat shield may help. Another option is a "permanent magnet" starter. They're less inclined to suffer from heat soak. Then there's the heavy duty "high torque" mini starters- also permanent magnet type starters. | ||
| − | If the timing is advanced far enough, the engine will turn over slowly when it's hot regardless of what is done. This often happens when there is a big cam that needs a lot of initial advance or | + | ===Ignition timing=== |
| + | If the timing is advanced far enough, the engine will turn over slowly when it's hot regardless of what is done. This often happens when there is a big cam that needs a lot of initial advance or needs the timing locked at full advance. | ||
| − | The solution for this is to use a remote ignition interrupter switch. Generally the switch is a momentary on-type switch that | + | The solution for this is to use a remote ignition interrupter switch. Generally the switch is a momentary on-type switch that is installed in positive wire to the ignition coil. This will allow the engine to be turned over by the starter, without the ignition being armed. Once the engine is spinning over, the switch is released to energize the ignition, and the engine fires up. |
===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
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[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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[[Category:Electrical]] | [[Category:Electrical]] | ||
[[Category:GM]] | [[Category:GM]] | ||
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