Remote Ford solenoid for GM- no hot start
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| − | + | ==Introduction== | |
| − | == | + | Sometimes a modified vehicle- especially one that uses headers- will experience starter "drag" when the engine is hot, which is akin to having a low battery even though it's fully charged. |
| − | Sometimes a modified vehicle- especially one that uses headers- will experience starter "drag" when the engine is hot, which is akin to having a low battery even though it's fully charged | + | |
| − | + | ==Heat soak== | |
| + | If the ignition (especially the timing), electrical, starting and charging systems are otherwise adjusted and working like they should, the problem may be "heat soak". Heat soak is a condition where the heat from the engine and exhaust system heats up the starter, solenoid, and wiring which causes an increase in resistance. | ||
| + | ==Remote solenoid== | ||
| + | The following changes will help this situation by removing the relay function of the starter solenoid to a cooler part of the engine compartment. | ||
| − | ==Electrical | + | ===Electrical connection diagram=== |
[[Image:Ford_sol_on_gm_strtr_blue.jpg]] | [[Image:Ford_sol_on_gm_strtr_blue.jpg]] | ||
| − | ==Using a remote solenoid== | + | ===Using a remote solenoid=== |
Also when the battery is trunk-mounted, it's a good idea to use a remote Ford solenoid/relay. This will keep the run of heavy cable to the starter from being always "hot". | Also when the battery is trunk-mounted, it's a good idea to use a remote Ford solenoid/relay. This will keep the run of heavy cable to the starter from being always "hot". | ||
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[[Image:Standard_PN_U939.jpg ]] | [[Image:Standard_PN_U939.jpg ]] | ||
| − | === | + | ===Original GM wiring configuration=== |
The battery wire to the solenoid in the stock configuration is hot at all times. The sequence of events that happens in the standard GM when you hit the starter is as follows; | The battery wire to the solenoid in the stock configuration is hot at all times. The sequence of events that happens in the standard GM when you hit the starter is as follows; | ||
#The electricity has to go from the starter switch through the loom to the neutral safety switch. | #The electricity has to go from the starter switch through the loom to the neutral safety switch. | ||
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Here is where a problem is encountered. It takes a fair amount of current to energize the stock solenoid when hot. Due to the amount of resistance in the wiring and starter motor from heat soak, the battery may not be able to supply the required current to the starter through the stock solenoid and wiring. This is where the Ford solenoid comes into play. | Here is where a problem is encountered. It takes a fair amount of current to energize the stock solenoid when hot. Due to the amount of resistance in the wiring and starter motor from heat soak, the battery may not be able to supply the required current to the starter through the stock solenoid and wiring. This is where the Ford solenoid comes into play. | ||
| − | === | + | ===Modified wiring with the remote Ford solenoid=== |
If you are running an GM HEI distributor, don't worry about wiring to "I" terminals. | If you are running an GM HEI distributor, don't worry about wiring to "I" terminals. | ||
#The wire that goes to the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid (closest to the block on GM engines having the starter on the passenger side of the engine) is removed and wired to the "S" terminal on the Ford solenoid. | #The wire that goes to the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid (closest to the block on GM engines having the starter on the passenger side of the engine) is removed and wired to the "S" terminal on the Ford solenoid. | ||
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If the problem remains even after the remote Ford relay/solenoid is installed, a starter heat shield may help. Another option is a "permanent magnet" starter. They're less inclined to suffer from heat soak. Then there's the heavy duty "high torque" mini starters- also permanent magnet type starters. | If the problem remains even after the remote Ford relay/solenoid is installed, a starter heat shield may help. Another option is a "permanent magnet" starter. They're less inclined to suffer from heat soak. Then there's the heavy duty "high torque" mini starters- also permanent magnet type starters. | ||
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| + | If the timing is advanced far enough, the engine will turn over slowly when it's hot regardless of what is done. This often happens when there is a big cam that needs a lot of initial advance or locked timing as full advance. | ||
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| + | The solution for this is to use a remote ignition interrupter switch. Generally the switch is a momentary on-type switch that allows the engine to be turned over by the starter, without the ignition being armed. Once the engine is spinning over, the switch is released to energize the ignition, and the engine fires up. | ||
===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
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File:Nippondenso high torque Chev starter.jpg|Nippondenso high torque Chevy starter</gallery> | File:Nippondenso high torque Chev starter.jpg|Nippondenso high torque Chevy starter</gallery> | ||
| + | ==Resources== | ||
| + | *[http://www.bdbatteries.com/wirerules.php Voltage drop calculator] from bdbatteries.com | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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