Editing Remote Ford solenoid for GM- no hot start (section)
Jump to:
navigation
,
search
===Modified wiring with the remote Ford solenoid=== If you are running an GM HEI distributor, don't worry about wiring to "I" terminals. #The wire that goes to the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid (closest to the block on GM engines having the starter on the passenger side of the engine) is removed and wired to the "S" terminal on the Ford solenoid. #The wire that goes to the "I" terminal on the GM solenoid (farthest from the block) is removed and wired to the "I" terminal on the Ford solenoid. The "I" terminal on the GM solenoid will not be used. When you purchase the Ford solenoid, make sure that it has the "I" terminal needed for non-HEI/points-type distributors. #The positive battery cable is removed from the GM solenoid and is put on one of the large terminals on the Ford solenoid. #Another cable is run from the other large terminal on the Ford solenoid to the large terminal on the GM solenoid where the hot battery cable was just removed. #Also on the large terminal on the GM solenoid, you have to add a heavy gauge (10 gauge) wire to the "S" terminal on the GM solenoid, or use a shunt. This can be bought or easily made. [[File:GM starter solenoid shunt.jpg|thumb|left|200px|Solenoid shunt for GM starter solenoid]] ====This is what happens when you hit the start switch:==== #The electricity from the starter switch only has to energize the Ford solenoid (that is mounted in a relatively cool location). #The "battery" cable to the GM solenoid goes hot. The Ford "I" terminal also goes hot, providing non-ballast/full battery voltage to the coil. #The GM solenoid now gets a solid "high capacity" current supply and works the plunger and contacts. The internal contacts send voltage to the starter motor. #This set-up DOES NOT make the GM solenoid any cooler. It just gives it a better current supply. Anything that can be done to shield the starter from the header heat would be beneficial. There are several heat shields on the market including those from GM. #Always be sure that no wiring comes in contact with the headers/exhaust manifolds and pipes and use heat shielding tubing or "socks", available from Jegs or Summit, just in case contact may occur. <br style="clear:both"/>
|
Editing help
(opens in new window)
Personal tools
Log in / create account
Namespaces
Page
Discussion
Variants
Views
Read
Edit
View history
Actions
Search
Navigation
Main Page
Recent changes
Random page
Help
All articles
Start a new article
Hotrodders forum
Categories
Best articles
Body and exterior
Brakes
Cooling
Electrical
Engine
Fasteners
Frame
Garage and shop
General hotrodding
Identification and decoding
Interior
Rearend
Safety
Steering
Suspension
Tires
Tools
Transmission
Troubleshooting
Wheels
Toolbox
What links here
Related changes
Special pages
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy
Your Privacy Choices
Manage Consent