Editing Phosphoric acid as metal pretreatment

Jump to: navigation, search
Line 10: Line 10:
  
 
#Once Ospho has dried, there is no longer any acid on the surface to react with paint.
 
#Once Ospho has dried, there is no longer any acid on the surface to react with paint.
#Ospho is totally neutralized by reaction with both the rust particles and the steel underneath.  
+
#Ospho is totally neutralized by reaction with both the rust particles and the steel underneath. A quick ,light water rinsewith a damp towel or a wax & grease remover will remove any dust-like reaction particles.
#Because Ospho is water-based, the water can hide in nooks and crannies, causing adhesion failure of primer
+
#Because Ospho is water-based, the water can hide in nooks and crannies, causing adhesion failure of primer always make sure metal is dry before using ospho or priming
 
+
*sand or scuff before priming then use a wax & grease remover to clean
For details on Ospho use, see [[Rust removal with Ospho]].
+
 
+
===Resources===
+
*[http://www.skybryte.com/OsphoMSDS.html Ospho MSDS]
+
*[http://www.skybryte.com/OsphoTec.html Ospho Technical Data Sheet]
+
 
+
====Application tips====
+
*A quick, light water rinse with a damp towel or a wax and grease remover will remove any dust-like reaction particles.
+
*Always make sure metal is dry before using ospho or priming.
+
*Sand or scuff before priming then use a wax and grease remover to clean.
+
 
+
===PPG DX579===
+
PPG DX579 contains a lower concentration of phosphoric acid than Ospho.
+
  
 
==Naval jelly==
 
==Naval jelly==
 
Naval jelly is considered safer to use than traditional liquid phosphoric acid metal pretreatments. For rust removal on body panels, the naval jelly is kept wet. Paint failures from phosphoric acid are thought to be caused by wiping on the acid, and letting it dry.
 
Naval jelly is considered safer to use than traditional liquid phosphoric acid metal pretreatments. For rust removal on body panels, the naval jelly is kept wet. Paint failures from phosphoric acid are thought to be caused by wiping on the acid, and letting it dry.
  
===Resources===
+
''need details here on exact concentrations, and use of naval jelly vs. traditional phosphoric acid treatments''
*[http://www.brown.edu/Departments/Visual_Art/documents/NavalJelly.pdf Naval Jelly MSDS]
+
*[http://www.permatex.com/documents/tds/Automotive/81756.pdf Naval Jelly Technical Data Sheet]
+
  
 
==Reasons for using phosphoric acid==
 
==Reasons for using phosphoric acid==
 
*Inexpensive.
 
*Inexpensive.
*[[Media blasting]] has its own set of drawbacks, especially when done by a hobbyist or amateur: panel warpage, health hazards for certain media, and mess.
+
*[[Media blasting]] has its own set of drawbacks.for instance when done by an amiture can warp panels easily not to mention the health hazords and mess..should only be done by qualified professionals under proper conditions as far as sheetmetal goes...
*If used perfectly, it works fine with a variety of epoxy primers.
+
*If used perfectly, it works perfectly.
*No experience is needed; easy for amateurs to use.
+
* no experiance is needed just reading skills(directions)and Protects bare metal from surface rust..
*Protects bare metal from surface rust.
+
  
 
==Reasons for not using phosphoric acid==
 
==Reasons for not using phosphoric acid==
Line 51: Line 35:
  
 
*Amateurs and [[First paint job|first-time painters]] are more likely to make errors. Phosphoric acid pretreatments must be used meticulously, and may be beneficial in an industrial or manufacturing environment. However, they can be catastrophic for beginners.
 
*Amateurs and [[First paint job|first-time painters]] are more likely to make errors. Phosphoric acid pretreatments must be used meticulously, and may be beneficial in an industrial or manufacturing environment. However, they can be catastrophic for beginners.
 +
As with ANY paint material read directions to avoid problems DIY's as well as pros make a lot of mistakes with all paint related materials (pay attention)
  
 
==Specific paint and primer failures caused by phosphoric acid pretreatments==
 
==Specific paint and primer failures caused by phosphoric acid pretreatments==
Line 57: Line 42:
  
 
==Published positions from primer and paint manufacturers==
 
==Published positions from primer and paint manufacturers==
===House of Kolor===
 
*[http://www.houseofkolor.com/PDF/TechData/English/KP21.pdf House of Kolor Kwikure Epoxy Primer Surfacer tech sheet]:
 
<blockquote>
 
''"'''NOTE:''' Do not use any acid base products such as self etching primer, etc. under the KP2CF primer. This will almost certainly cause an adhesion problem.''
 
<br>
 
'''''NOTE:''' If you find it necessary to use a metal conditioner to remove rust, etc., be sure to thoroughly clean and neutralize the treated area following the conditioner manufacturers recommendations, then using our KC20 post sanding cleaner with a maroon scuff pad to insure all acid residue has been removed before priming. If not, this will almost certainly cause an adhesion problem."''
 
</blockquote>
 
 
House of Kolor is a division of Valspar Corporation.
 
 
 
===Southern Polyurethanes, Inc.===
 
===Southern Polyurethanes, Inc.===
*[http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech%20sheets%20new/epOXY%202006.pdf Southern Polyurethanes epoxy primer tech sheet]:
+
*[http://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/tech%20sheets%20new/epOXY%202006.pdf Southern Polyurethanes]:
 
<blockquote>
 
<blockquote>
 
''"NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle, Acid Etch/Wash Primer, Rust Converter or other Metal Treatments. NEVER!"''
 
''"NEVER use SPI Epoxy over a Soda Blasted vehicle, Acid Etch/Wash Primer, Rust Converter or other Metal Treatments. NEVER!"''
Line 76: Line 51:
  
 
==Use of phosphoric acid in an industrial setting==
 
==Use of phosphoric acid in an industrial setting==
''this section needs development''
+
I've used "Ospho" to restore cars for over 25 yrs without a problem and wont prime a stripped car without it,no matter how it was stripped,(sanded,blasted or chemically).I believe the only people that dont like it haven't used it.or simply used it wrong...it works well with any type of primer or "ANY" brand ,so I totally disagree with (SPI)since thats the epoxy primer I use and prefer over all others...One of the few auto body products I swear by....posted by "deadbodyman"
 
+
==Related articles==
+
*[[Rust removal with Ospho]]
+
*[[Rust]]
+
  
 
==References==
 
==References==
Line 89: Line 60:
 
*http://www.skybryte.com/index.html
 
*http://www.skybryte.com/index.html
 
*http://www.ospho.com/data.htm
 
*http://www.ospho.com/data.htm
*http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/compatability-spi-ospho-74054.html
 
*http://www.spiuserforum.com/showthread.php?8-What-every-new-painter-must-read!
 
  
 
[[Category:Body and exterior]]
 
[[Category:Body and exterior]]
| Editing help (opens in new window)
Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox