How to start hotrodding with little knowledge or money
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'''[[Step one: Knowledge]]''' | '''[[Step one: Knowledge]]''' | ||
| − | The first and cheapest way to start hotrodding is gaining knowledge, and there are several great resources for this. Books are an excellent place to start. | + | The first and cheapest way to start hotrodding is gaining knowledge, and there are several great resources for this. Books are an excellent place to start. They're available on just about every topic and are generally inexpensive. Although my suggestion is to focus on the mechanics of a car first (driveline, suspension etc) its well to get yourself started on other topics of hotrodding too. These include interior design, body work and paint. If you get yourself a good general base of knowledge you can follow conversations with other hotrodders! |
| − | People are the best resource of hotrodding. You'll find them on any hotrodding website (I use hotrodders.com mostly), at [[races]], [[car shows]], [[cruises]] etc. Most hotrodders are extremely open about | + | People are the best resource of hotrodding. You'll find them on any hotrodding website (I use hotrodders.com mostly), at [[races]], [[car shows]], [[cruises]] etc. Most hotrodders are extremely open about discussing their projects. If you see something you like at a show, ask the owner about it and you'll likely receive a complete story. |
* A note about car shows for the newbie. Some people will have signs on their cars that say "do not touch" and others will not. Regardless, do not touch anything at a car show. Furthermore, be conscious of your zippers and buttons hanging off of you. You can lean over a car and drag an open zipper on a car without realizing it. What I do sometimes (you can decide whether or not this is overkill) is put my hands behind my back when looking at a car unless I want to point something out. I think it shows the owner I'm serious about respecting his project. | * A note about car shows for the newbie. Some people will have signs on their cars that say "do not touch" and others will not. Regardless, do not touch anything at a car show. Furthermore, be conscious of your zippers and buttons hanging off of you. You can lean over a car and drag an open zipper on a car without realizing it. What I do sometimes (you can decide whether or not this is overkill) is put my hands behind my back when looking at a car unless I want to point something out. I think it shows the owner I'm serious about respecting his project. | ||
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Another good venue for knowledge is [[classes]]. In some areas, classes on engine building, body work, restoration and other topics are offered. Look at your local community college or technical center if there is one in your area. | Another good venue for knowledge is [[classes]]. In some areas, classes on engine building, body work, restoration and other topics are offered. Look at your local community college or technical center if there is one in your area. | ||
| − | A last note about knowledge is about quality. Although it is fun to go over to your buddy's house and help him work on his project, make sure you're not learning improper techniques. This is why I suggested starting with books, car shows and classes. You're a lot more likely | + | A last note about knowledge is about quality. Although it is fun to go over to your buddy's house and help him work on his project, make sure you're not learning improper techniques. This is why I suggested starting with books, car shows and classes. You're a lot more likely to learn how to do things correctly. This is not to say that a vast amount of "hands on" learning doesn't need to take place. On the contrary, you'll learn 95% of what you learn about hotrodding from getting your hands dirty. Quality work takes time and having the right plan and techniques in mind before you begin will start you moving in the right direction. |
'''[[Resources]]''' | '''[[Resources]]''' | ||
| − | Hotrodding is an exercise in restraint. With a $100,000 dollar budget we can all build a HorsepowerTV 700 horse Chevelle. The average guy, especially the beginner hotrodder, does not have | + | Hotrodding is an exercise in restraint. With a $100,000 dollar budget we can all build a HorsepowerTV 700 horse Chevelle. The average guy, especially the beginner hotrodder, does not have that kind of bank account. In many cases, however, you can build a decent first project for a few thousand dollars. If you have the restraint to spend your money in the areas that matter, you can save vast amounts of money overall. |
What you'll find is that the more knowledge, resources and tools you have the more money you can save. For example, if you learn to rebuild a carburetor, you don't have to order a new one. At the highest levels of hotrodding, whole panels, frames or entire cars are completely fabricated. | What you'll find is that the more knowledge, resources and tools you have the more money you can save. For example, if you learn to rebuild a carburetor, you don't have to order a new one. At the highest levels of hotrodding, whole panels, frames or entire cars are completely fabricated. | ||
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Objectively, I see a lot of beginning hotrodders choose a first project that is too ambitious. What I think works best is to take steps in learning hotrodding. Your first project can be simple and inexpensive. Then make your next project teach you something your first project did not. There are several reasons for this. If you choose a complex project for your first, the learning curve its going to take to finish the project may take you 10 years, not to mention the invested budget may take more than 10 years to accumulate. This assumes that you maintain interest in the project for this entire time, you're able to have a place to work on it for that long and you don't care about having a finished product for several years to come. | Objectively, I see a lot of beginning hotrodders choose a first project that is too ambitious. What I think works best is to take steps in learning hotrodding. Your first project can be simple and inexpensive. Then make your next project teach you something your first project did not. There are several reasons for this. If you choose a complex project for your first, the learning curve its going to take to finish the project may take you 10 years, not to mention the invested budget may take more than 10 years to accumulate. This assumes that you maintain interest in the project for this entire time, you're able to have a place to work on it for that long and you don't care about having a finished product for several years to come. | ||
| − | A simpler and less expensive initial project will afford you several benefits. First, you can focus on learning just the aspects of the car that you want to upgrade or build. If you make mistakes, you can easily and inexpensively get a replacement part. You'll finish the project sooner giving you something to enjoy, and given that it will be in more of a complete state during the build process, you won't | + | A simpler and less expensive initial project will afford you several benefits. First, you can focus on learning just the aspects of the car that you want to upgrade or build. If you make mistakes, you can easily and inexpensively get a replacement part. You'll finish the project sooner giving you something to enjoy, and given that it will be in more of a complete state during the build process, you won't need an elaborate shop to build/store it. |
| − | Here are some examples of cars that can generally be | + | Here are some examples of cars that can generally be procured in a whole, working condition, with drive trains and components that are easy to upgrade. F-Body General Motors cars (Camaros and Firebirds), second and third generation, are great candidates. G-body cars including the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Chevy Monte Carlo are very lightweight cars that have great parts interchange. Many people enjoy working on Ford Mustangs also because of the large parts interchange, aftermarket and enthusiast following. Less expensive Mopar (Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth) projects can also be found. |
| − | Finding a vehicle that is mostly complete and has not been already modified by another hobbyist is more important than focusing on how desirable the vehicle would be to a collector or for resale. It's much better to rebuild existing parts than to try to hunt them down | + | Finding a vehicle that is mostly complete and has not been already modified by another hobbyist is more important than focusing on how desirable the vehicle would be to a collector or for resale. It's much better to rebuild existing parts than to try to hunt them down and if the vehicle has not been changed from its factory configuration it will be much easier to work on and make look right when its all done. |
| − | Trucks are another great place to start hotrodding. Generally they can be | + | Trucks are another great place to start hotrodding. Generally they can be had for not much money, are very easy to work on due to the large engine bays and ground clearance and have a great aftermarket support. Trucks don't tend to be as light; however, so overall performance may be reduced depending on the platform. That said, however, a great first project (and one of mine) is a 4x4 mud truck. |
'''[[Research and Project Value]]''' | '''[[Research and Project Value]]''' | ||
| − | Once you find what type of car you want to build, do some research. Find out what types of prices they fetch in what conditions | + | Once you find what type of car you want to build, do some research. Find out what types of prices they fetch in what conditions and be smart about which one you buy. Always be willing to walk away if you're not comfortable. I recommend paying a little bit more for your first project up front. Find something that the body is all there and only has issues in the areas you are already planning on upgrading. |
I see a lot of young hotrodders make the same mistake. They scrape together 1200 bucks or so, go find a car they like and buy it thinking "wow, I have a project car and I only had to pay 1200 dollars, I'm way ahead of the game!" What they don't see is that even if the car looks "ok" it needs EVERYTHING. The brakes are shot and the lines are corroded. The engine needs to be rebuilt. The transmission has a boatload of miles on it. The rear end is sloppy, there's rust here and there and the paint needs to be redone. The interior is pretty much shot. Make no mistake, this car needs THOUSANDS of dollars worth of work to be respectable. 1200 + 8000 dollars in parts + hundreds of frustrating hours worth of doing work you have no idea how to do = burnout, failure and debt. | I see a lot of young hotrodders make the same mistake. They scrape together 1200 bucks or so, go find a car they like and buy it thinking "wow, I have a project car and I only had to pay 1200 dollars, I'm way ahead of the game!" What they don't see is that even if the car looks "ok" it needs EVERYTHING. The brakes are shot and the lines are corroded. The engine needs to be rebuilt. The transmission has a boatload of miles on it. The rear end is sloppy, there's rust here and there and the paint needs to be redone. The interior is pretty much shot. Make no mistake, this car needs THOUSANDS of dollars worth of work to be respectable. 1200 + 8000 dollars in parts + hundreds of frustrating hours worth of doing work you have no idea how to do = burnout, failure and debt. | ||
| − | Ideally what you want to find is a decently solid car. Body work is one of the tougher aspects of hotrodding, you probably want to learn some basics first. Find a car for between 3000-4000 dollars that has a clean body and decent paint. The interior should be all there and in fair shape, if not good. A blown engine is not a deal-breaker, but keep in mind its a good idea to be able to drive the car to assess the other issues it has. How is the suspension and brakes? How does the transmission shift? Remember, keep | + | Ideally what you want to find is a decently solid car. Body work is one of the tougher aspects of hotrodding, you probably want to learn some basics first. Find a car for between 3000-4000 dollars that has a clean body and decent paint. The interior should be all there and in fair shape, if not good. A blown-up engine is not a deal-breaker, but keep in mind its a good idea to be able to drive the car to assess the other issues it has. How is the suspension and brakes? How does the transmission shift? Remember, keep your first project simple! |
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[[Where To Start]] | [[Where To Start]] | ||
| − | Start with small projects on the vehicle. Don't just take the whole car apart and wonder what you are going to do after you've done so. If you have a camera, take pictures | + | Start with small projects on the vehicle. Don't just take the whole car apart and wonder what you are going to do after you've done so. If you have a camera, take pictures beforehand so you remember how it went together. Seek the knowledge of a mentor and have him/her assist with some parts of the project and answer your questions as you proceed with a particular job. Prepare a job list, have the tools and the parts BEFORE starting, be aware of the procedure of the job and act it out accordingly. Know your limitations, but don't be afraid to ask for help. |
== Organization == | == Organization == | ||
| − | In addition to using a camera, small parts can be easily organized using small bags and | + | In addition to using a camera, small parts can be easily organized using small, clear plastic bags and marking the identification of the part and/or part numbers on the outside of the bag with an indelible black magic marker. This way you can label which screws/bolts or fasteners go where. If you have a digital camera, you can even label the bag with the number of the picture from your camera. |
| − | Keep your tools organized as well. Its good practice to never have more tools out of your tool box than you're using at any given time. If you finish working under the car and move back up to the engine, put your tools away. Get out the ones you need for the engine and move forward. This way you only ever have two places your tools can be | + | Keep your tools organized as well. Its good practice to never have more tools out of your tool box than you're using at any given time. If you finish working under the car and move back up to the engine, put your tools away. Get out the ones you need for the engine and move forward. This way you only ever have two places your tools can be, in the box or at your work zone. |
== Building for Performance == | == Building for Performance == | ||
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The first thing you want to do when building for performance on any project is make sure the car is safe. This means checking your suspension components including bushings, ball joints, tie rods and ends as well as brakes, brake lines and fuel lines. U-joints are an often overlooked safety/upgrade component as well. They're inexpensive and easy to install, so make sure these get checked as well. | The first thing you want to do when building for performance on any project is make sure the car is safe. This means checking your suspension components including bushings, ball joints, tie rods and ends as well as brakes, brake lines and fuel lines. U-joints are an often overlooked safety/upgrade component as well. They're inexpensive and easy to install, so make sure these get checked as well. | ||
| − | Next, you want to take a look at your tires. Are they in safe condition or are they bald and dry- | + | Next, you want to take a look at your tires. Are they in safe condition or are they bald and dry-rotted? Good tires are a must for a performance platform. DO NOT BUY CHEAP TIRES FOR A PERFORMANCE CAR! Remember, this is arguably the single most important component of the car. |
| − | + | Other often-overlooked portions of a car are the linkages and joints. Take a minute to make sure your throttle linkage is not cobbled together with paperclips and pins. What about the steering rag joint and the connection to the steering box? These are also components that are easy to replace and can make your car much safer. Building for performance is going to put more stress on many of your components than was exerted when the car was stock. Plan accordingly! | |
'''Choosing your upgrades''' | '''Choosing your upgrades''' | ||
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There are many misconceptions when building for performance- I'll mention two: | There are many misconceptions when building for performance- I'll mention two: | ||
| − | First: | + | First: Bigger is not always better/faster (except when you're talking about cubic inches). For example, is a 750CFM carburetor better than a 600CFM carburetor? No, not always. In fact, a carburetor that is too large can hurt low-end driveability/fuel mileage. The same is true with intake manifolds, heads, and camshafts. The most common mistake of newbie hotrodders is to overcam and overcarb their cars. |
Second: the motor is often times NOT the best place to start for performance, dollar for dollar. In fact, in many cases the best philosophy is to work from the back of the car forward! | Second: the motor is often times NOT the best place to start for performance, dollar for dollar. In fact, in many cases the best philosophy is to work from the back of the car forward! | ||
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'''Working From the Back Forward''' | '''Working From the Back Forward''' | ||
| − | A | + | A lower rear-end gear ratio (numerically higher)is one of the best dollar-for-dollar upgrades for performance you can feel. Furthermore, it complements other upgrades you may make later to the transmission/torque converter and engine. Many cars were built with high-ratio (numerically lower) "open" (non posi-traction) rear ends. And lets face it, none of us are really that impressed with the "one wheel peel!" |
| − | There are two ways to go about changing your rear end | + | There are two ways to go about changing your rear end; replacing the gears in your existing rear end or finding a rear end with the gears and posi unit you want and putting the whole rear end in the car. Either are acceptable options, but building a rear end takes some precision tools and fair bit of skill. |
| − | Generally a ratio | + | Generally a ratio around 3.70 is considered best for performance on the street with a non-overdrive transmission (TH350, 727 and the like). Any higher and you may start feeling uncomfortable with the highway RPMs. |
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