How to start hotrodding with little knowledge or money
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A simpler and less expensive initial project will afford you several benefits. First, you can focus on learning just the aspects of the car that you want to upgrade or build. If you make mistakes, you can easily and inexpensively get a replacement part. You'll finish the project sooner giving you something to enjoy, and given that it will be in more of a complete state during the build process, you won't have to have as much of an elaborate shop to build/store it. | A simpler and less expensive initial project will afford you several benefits. First, you can focus on learning just the aspects of the car that you want to upgrade or build. If you make mistakes, you can easily and inexpensively get a replacement part. You'll finish the project sooner giving you something to enjoy, and given that it will be in more of a complete state during the build process, you won't have to have as much of an elaborate shop to build/store it. | ||
| − | Here are some examples of cars that can generally be gotten in a whole, working condition, with drive trains and components that are easy to upgrade. F-Body | + | Here are some examples of cars that can generally be gotten in a whole, working condition, with drive trains and components that are easy to upgrade. F-Body General Motors cars (Camaros and Firebirds), second and third generation, are great candidates. G-body cars including the Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme and Chevy Monte Carlo are very lightweight cars that have great parts interchange. Many people enjoy working on Ford Mustangs also because of the large parts interchange, aftermarket and enthusiast following. Less expensive Mopar (Chrysler, Dodge, or Plymouth) projects can be found in the forms of trucks for the most part. |
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| + | Finding a vehicle that is mostly complete and has not been already modified by another hobbyist is more important than focusing on how desirable the vehicle would be to a collector or for resale. It's much better to rebuild existing parts than to try to hunt them down, and if the vehicle has not been changed from its factory configuration it will be much easier to work on and make look right when its all done. | ||
Trucks are another great place to start hotrodding. Generally they can be gotten for not much money, are very easy to work on due to the large engine bays and ground clearance, and have a great aftermarket. Trucks don't tend to be as light; however, so overall performance may be reduced depending on the platform. That said, however, a great first project (and one of mine) is a 4x4 mud truck. | Trucks are another great place to start hotrodding. Generally they can be gotten for not much money, are very easy to work on due to the large engine bays and ground clearance, and have a great aftermarket. Trucks don't tend to be as light; however, so overall performance may be reduced depending on the platform. That said, however, a great first project (and one of mine) is a 4x4 mud truck. | ||
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'''Working From the Back Forward''' | '''Working From the Back Forward''' | ||
| − | A higher rear-end gear ratio is one of the best dollar-for-dollar upgrades for performance you can feel. Furthermore, it | + | A higher rear-end gear ratio is one of the best dollar-for-dollar upgrades for performance you can feel. Furthermore, it complements other upgrades you may make later to the transmission/torque converter and engine. Many cars were built with low-ratio "open" (non posi-traction) rear ends. And lets face it, none of us are really that impressed with the "one wheel peel!" |
There are two ways to go about changing your rear end: Replacing the gears in your existing rear end, or finding a rear end with the gears and posi unit you want and putting the whole rear end in the car. Either are acceptable options, but building a rear end takes some precision tools and fair bit of skill. | There are two ways to go about changing your rear end: Replacing the gears in your existing rear end, or finding a rear end with the gears and posi unit you want and putting the whole rear end in the car. Either are acceptable options, but building a rear end takes some precision tools and fair bit of skill. | ||
Generally a ratio between 3.4 and 3.6 is considered the top end for the street with a non-overdrive transmission (TH350, 727 and the like). Any higher and you may start feeling uncomfortable with the highway RPMs. | Generally a ratio between 3.4 and 3.6 is considered the top end for the street with a non-overdrive transmission (TH350, 727 and the like). Any higher and you may start feeling uncomfortable with the highway RPMs. | ||
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