How to run Ford wheels on a Chevy wheel pattern
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==Introduction== | ==Introduction== | ||
"Why would you want to use a Ford wheel on a Chevy?" is more than likely the first question that will come to mind. The reason is, most hot rodders like to think out of the box and will take the best parts from different cars and use these parts in their latest creation. | "Why would you want to use a Ford wheel on a Chevy?" is more than likely the first question that will come to mind. The reason is, most hot rodders like to think out of the box and will take the best parts from different cars and use these parts in their latest creation. | ||
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To convert mm to inches, a [http://www.convertunits.com/from/mm/to/inches calculator] can be used, or simply multiply mm by '''0.03937''', i.e. 120.65mm x 0.03937 = 4.7499" (rounded to 4 3/4" or 4.75"). For slightly better accuracy (really not needed in this case), divide mm by '''25.4'''. | To convert mm to inches, a [http://www.convertunits.com/from/mm/to/inches calculator] can be used, or simply multiply mm by '''0.03937''', i.e. 120.65mm x 0.03937 = 4.7499" (rounded to 4 3/4" or 4.75"). For slightly better accuracy (really not needed in this case), divide mm by '''25.4'''. | ||
| − | In everyday language you would say, "My rim has a 5 on 4 3/4" wheel pattern | + | In everyday language you would say, "My rim has a 5 on 4 3/4" wheel pattern", meaning that the rim has five bolts or studs and an imaginary circle of 4.75" is formed by the lug pattern. |
==How to measure wheel patterns== | ==How to measure wheel patterns== | ||
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*Mazda RX-7 (2nd and 3rd gen FC and FD chassis)'89-98 | *Mazda RX-7 (2nd and 3rd gen FC and FD chassis)'89-98 | ||
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| − | + | ==5 on 4-3/4" (5 on 120.65mm) "Chevy" bolt pattern== | |
| − | + | *Buick - Regal, Century, Special (most mid-size) '64-'80s | |
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| + | *Chevrolet, all (exc. as noted elsewhere) '49-'89 | ||
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| + | *Corvette, all | ||
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| + | *Corvair '65-'69 5-bolt | ||
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| + | *GM compact and midsize | ||
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| + | *Oldsmobile - 442, Cutlass, F-85, Toronado | ||
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| + | **(most mid-size) '60s-'80s | ||
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| + | *Pontiac - GTO, LeMans, Firebird, Grand Prix | ||
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| + | **(mid size) '64-'80s | ||
| − | + | ==Bolt Pattern Adapters== | |
| + | Bolt pattern adapters normally fit between the rotor and the wheel. The adapters usually come with pressed in lugs for the new bolt pattern, with a lug length of about 1.5". | ||
| + | These can be found on eBay for relatively cheap ($30-50USD per wheel+ shipping) in various materials and thicknesses. Note that you'll need to consider the offset/backspacing of your wheels, and factor in the adapter spacing. When you change how far the wheel centerline is away from the hub, you can (adversely) change the handling of your car. If the centerline is too far out, bump steer can become more noticeable and the life of your wheel bearings can be affected. Match the adapter thickness to your wheel backspacing to your intended suspension geometry. | ||
| + | The adapters currently on the market range in thickness from 20mm to 3 inches. | ||
| + | [http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=5x120+5x4.5+adapter&_sacat=0&_odkw=5x120+5x114.3+adapter&_osacat=0 5x120 to 5x4.5 adapters on eBay] | ||
| − | + | One thing to consider with really thin adapters (20mm and 1 inch) is that the existing lugs on your hub may be longer than that. If the wheels you are putting on have hollow space in between the lug holes, the existing lugs may protrude into those holes (that's OK). If they don't have space for the old lugs to protrude into, you may have to shorten the lugs by sawing off the appropriate amount. If your are using thicker adapters, this should not be a problems since the old lugs will be completely covered by the adapter. | |
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==Things to consider== | ==Things to consider== | ||
| − | + | ===Center bore=== | |
| − | ===Center bore=== | + | The center bore of a wheel is the machined or stamped opening in the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of a vehicle along with the lug nut OD and/or lug and wheel hole taper. Ideally this hole is machined to exactly match the hub or spindle so the wheels are precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. Keeping the wheel precisely centered on the hub when it is mounted will minimize the chance of vibration. Some wheels are vehicle/model specific and will come from the factory with a bore machined to match that vehicle. Some wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings keep the wheel precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. |
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| − | The center bore of a wheel is the machined or stamped opening in the wheel that centers the wheel properly on the hub of a vehicle along with the lug nut OD and/or lug and wheel hole taper. Ideally this hole is machined to exactly match the hub or spindle so the wheels are precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down. Keeping the wheel precisely centered on the hub when it is mounted will minimize the chance of vibration. Some wheels are vehicle/model specific and will come from the factory with a bore machined to match that vehicle. Some wheels are designed to fit multiple vehicle models and will use a centering ring system to reduce the bore size to match the hubs of different vehicles. These rings keep the wheel precisely positioned as the lug hardware is torqued down | + | |
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===Offset=== | ===Offset=== | ||
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