How to rebuild a Rochester Quadrajet 4MV carburetor
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===Carburetor Identification Decoding=== | ===Carburetor Identification Decoding=== | ||
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− | :Once it has been determined that your Rochester Quadrajet carburetor requires a rebuild, the first thing to do is to locate the identification number. The | + | :Once it has been determined that your Rochester Quadrajet carburetor requires a rebuild, the first thing to do is to locate the identification number. The identification number will help with ordering the correct set of parts or a rebuild kit. |
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====Identification Number Decoding==== | ====Identification Number Decoding==== | ||
− | :Should a need arise for decoding, | + | :Should a need arise for decoding, please see the following article for further information and assistance: [[Rochester Quadrajet Carburetors: Identification and Decoding]] |
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====Parts Organizer==== | ====Parts Organizer==== | ||
− | :The carburetor is held together and in place with a multitude of bolts of | + | :The carburetor is held together and in place with a multitude of bolts of various sizes. There are also a lot of small parts on the inside of the carburetor body. It is very important to use some sort of a parts organizer to separate everything. It does not have to be anything fancy. You can often use things usually found around the house such as cupcake pan, silverware tray, or an egg carton will do the job.'' ^2'' According to [http://www.hotrodders.com Hotrodders] forum member '''''trees''''': |
− | :''<blockquote>"As a technique, I use two pans and | + | :''<blockquote>"As a technique, I use two pans and label each "bin" and place the old part in one bin and at the same time, I place the new part in the other pan. Most kits are 'generic' so this is the best time to pick out the part that matches the removed part and set the residual parts aside."'' ^3''</blockquote>'' |
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:*Parts cleaning tray - Keeps the parts in place and also keeps any chemicals from spilling in undesired places. | :*Parts cleaning tray - Keeps the parts in place and also keeps any chemicals from spilling in undesired places. | ||
− | :*Parts cleaning brush - Used for cleaning off most of the grime and gunk off the carburetor parts after | + | :*Parts cleaning brush - Used for cleaning off most of the grime and gunk off the carburetor parts after dipping them. |
:*Wire brush - Used for scrubbing off the touch spots after dipping. | :*Wire brush - Used for scrubbing off the touch spots after dipping. | ||
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− | :Remember, with a digital camera, there are no limitations on how many pictures you can take because you are not using film. And when you upload your pictures, be sure to organize them into folders and sub-folders with useful categories for titles, i.e. ''Removal'', '' | + | :Remember, with a digital camera, there are no limitations on how many pictures you can take because you are not using film. And when you upload your pictures, be sure to organize them into folders and sub-folders with useful categories for titles, i.e. ''Removal'', ''Dis-assembly'', etc. Extra effort here will save a lot of time and headache in the future when you have go through the photos to match up the right parts or bolts. |
[[File:Image Organization.jpg|frame|center|An example of how organize photos when uploading them.]] | [[File:Image Organization.jpg|frame|center|An example of how organize photos when uploading them.]] | ||
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====Ventilation==== | ====Ventilation==== | ||
− | : | + | :Ventilation is very important when working with chemicals. For the rebuild, you will be using the Chem-Dip, which has strong fumes. If working inside the garage or other indoor places, be sure to keep the windows and doors fully open. If available, employ a large exhaust fan to suck out the fumes. |
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===Set Up=== | ===Set Up=== | ||
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− | :Begin by taking pictures of the carburetor as its sits on the engine. | + | :Begin by taking pictures of the carburetor as its sits on the engine. Photograph from every possible angle, including: |
:*Front | :*Front | ||
:*Driver-side front | :*Driver-side front | ||
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:*Top of the carburetor | :*Top of the carburetor | ||
:*All linkages | :*All linkages | ||
− | :*All hoses, | + | :*All hoses, including where the originate from if possible ''(i.e. hose from vacuum advance canister to carburetor)''. |
− | :Once the pictures have been taken, using masking tape and a pen or marker, label every hose. Take pictures of every hose, with the | + | :Once the pictures have been taken, using masking tape and a pen or marker, label every hose. Take pictures of every hose, with the label clearly marked and showing in the images. |
[[File:Carburetor Hoses Marked.jpg|center|thumb|750x250px|Hoses marked and labeled.]] | [[File:Carburetor Hoses Marked.jpg|center|thumb|750x250px|Hoses marked and labeled.]] | ||
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''<blockquote>"A common problem on the early Q-jets especially, is leaky main wells. | ''<blockquote>"A common problem on the early Q-jets especially, is leaky main wells. | ||
− | The 'cure' for this has long been to use JB Weld, etc. to seal them over. This is just a stop-gap measure, I have seen personally how the epoxy will degrade over time and quit sealing as it did at first. | + | ''The 'cure' for this has long been to use JB Weld, etc. to seal them over. This is just a stop-gap measure, I have seen personally how the epoxy will degrade over time and quit sealing as it did at first. |
− | If a permanent fix is wanted, the wells can be resealed w/new plugs that are peened over to hold them in place. | + | ''If a permanent fix is wanted, the wells can be resealed w/new plugs that are peened over to hold them in place. |
− | The primary wells can be drilled and tapped for short screws that will cure them for good, although these wells seldom leak. ^5</blockquote>'' | + | ''The primary wells can be drilled and tapped for short screws that will cure them for good, although these wells seldom leak. ^5</blockquote>'' |