How to prep and start a rebuilt engine
(→Crate engine break-in instructions: add text) |
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===Flat tappet cam and lifters=== | ===Flat tappet cam and lifters=== | ||
| − | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys like the red syrup. | + | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys like the red syrup. Soaking the lifters in oil is fine. There is no need to pump them full of oil using a pushrod to stroke them full, but no harm if you do. No moly lube on the body of the lifter- just on the bottoms and the lobes of the cam. Don't neglect to work the lube into the surface of the cam lobes, especially. |
| − | + | ===Overhead Cam Engines=== | |
| + | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the shims, shim buckets and cam lobes - but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. | ||
===Roller cam and lifters=== | ===Roller cam and lifters=== | ||
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==Preparing the engine to be started== | ==Preparing the engine to be started== | ||
| − | ===Prelube=== | + | ===Prelube (pushrod V8s)=== |
Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | ||
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{{Clear}} | {{Clear}} | ||
| − | ===Timing=== | + | ===Prelube (OHC Engines with trochoid pumps)=== |
| + | Crank-driven trochoid pumps are very efficient, but they need to be primed, so always fill all the galleries in and around the pump before assembly. Always spin the engine over on the starter before trying to start it (ensure you disable the ignition system before you try this - you don't want the engine to actually run). Do this until you have positive oil pressure. On a car with no pressure gauge, just remove the cam covers while doing this. Once you see oil squirting from the cam caps, then you're done. | ||
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| + | ===Timing (mechanical distributor) === | ||
For installing a Chevy V8 distributor and setting the timing so the engine will fire immediately, see [[How to install a distributor]]. Other distributors will install similarly, but be sure of the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders firing order and distributor rotation], along with any other details that might be different if another make of engine is being worked on. | For installing a Chevy V8 distributor and setting the timing so the engine will fire immediately, see [[How to install a distributor]]. Other distributors will install similarly, but be sure of the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders firing order and distributor rotation], along with any other details that might be different if another make of engine is being worked on. | ||
To help keep the engine from overheating, make sure the engine has plenty of ignition timing advance while it's running to break in the cam. You must not idle the engine even for just a minute, so set the timing using a dial back timing light or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_make_a_timing_tape make a timing tape] so you can see what the timing is at with the engine running at 2000-plus rpm. You can give it 32-34 degrees (not counting the vacuum advance), no problem. It will not hurt to connect the vacuum advance because the engine is running w/o a load, so there won't be detonation from excessive timing unless you were to go WAY up there. But 32 degrees without the vacuum advance hooked up, to as much as 45 degrees with the vacuum advance hooked up is OK. Placing a large fan in front of the radiator can help keep the engine cool as well. | To help keep the engine from overheating, make sure the engine has plenty of ignition timing advance while it's running to break in the cam. You must not idle the engine even for just a minute, so set the timing using a dial back timing light or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_make_a_timing_tape make a timing tape] so you can see what the timing is at with the engine running at 2000-plus rpm. You can give it 32-34 degrees (not counting the vacuum advance), no problem. It will not hurt to connect the vacuum advance because the engine is running w/o a load, so there won't be detonation from excessive timing unless you were to go WAY up there. But 32 degrees without the vacuum advance hooked up, to as much as 45 degrees with the vacuum advance hooked up is OK. Placing a large fan in front of the radiator can help keep the engine cool as well. | ||
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| + | ===Timing (electronic) === | ||
| + | ECU controlled timing is set by the ignition map - it won't change after break-in. On engines with OHC 4-valve heads you generally have a lot less advance than on 2 valve pushrod designs, so you don't want to use any more than 30 degrees. | ||
==Crate engine break-in instructions== | ==Crate engine break-in instructions== | ||
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===Oil after break in=== | ===Oil after break in=== | ||
| − | + | In the US, oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements were used in the oil to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to follow the guidelines imposed on them. | |
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There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new flat tappet cam and lifters. Generally speaking, "over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task; they are constantly changing formulations, so what might have been acceptable for use with a flat tappet valve train might not be the next time you look up the specs, so be very careful when selecting motor oil. | There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new flat tappet cam and lifters. Generally speaking, "over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task; they are constantly changing formulations, so what might have been acceptable for use with a flat tappet valve train might not be the next time you look up the specs, so be very careful when selecting motor oil. | ||
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