How to prep and start a rebuilt engine

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*You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are:
 
*You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are:
 
**Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing.  
 
**Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing.  
**Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams fr around $100 over he cost of the cam.  
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**Comp Cams has an optional [http://www.compcams.com/nitriding/ nitriding process] that can be applied to any of their cams for around $100 over the cost of the cam.  
**[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set.   
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**[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM composite lifters], ~$700/set.   
**[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625.  
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**[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM tool steel lifters], ~$485-$625/set.  
  
 
*Do not break in the cam using the springs that will be eventually run with the cam if the springs are much higher than about 120-130 pounds on the seat at the installed height. Instead, assemble the heads with used '''stock''' springs, ''if they will give enough lift before coil bind''. Keep an old set on the shelf just for running in a new motor, then change them out at the 20-30 minute mark. Another option is to remove the inner springs from a dual valve spring for break in. Replace the inner spring afterwards. Manley makes a lever-type tool for this procedure, to be used with compressed air to keep the valve seated. If you don't have a compressor you can feed thin rope/cord down the spark plug hole with the piston down away from TDC. After the rope is fed in, carefully rotate the engine so the piston is compressing the rope up against the valve head. Do this on the compression stroke. Or have a shop do it. Another way is to use a set of reduced-ratio rocker arms for break-in.  
 
*Do not break in the cam using the springs that will be eventually run with the cam if the springs are much higher than about 120-130 pounds on the seat at the installed height. Instead, assemble the heads with used '''stock''' springs, ''if they will give enough lift before coil bind''. Keep an old set on the shelf just for running in a new motor, then change them out at the 20-30 minute mark. Another option is to remove the inner springs from a dual valve spring for break in. Replace the inner spring afterwards. Manley makes a lever-type tool for this procedure, to be used with compressed air to keep the valve seated. If you don't have a compressor you can feed thin rope/cord down the spark plug hole with the piston down away from TDC. After the rope is fed in, carefully rotate the engine so the piston is compressing the rope up against the valve head. Do this on the compression stroke. Or have a shop do it. Another way is to use a set of reduced-ratio rocker arms for break-in.  

Revision as of 10:30, 7 June 2012

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