How to prep and start a rebuilt engine
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Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | ||
| − | ==Crate engine instructions== | + | ==Crate engine break-in instructions== |
| − | [ | + | From the GMPP [http://www.chevroletperformance.com/Racing/CT_Tech_Manual.pdf Circle Track Crate Engine Technical Manual]: |
| + | |||
| + | '''Recommended Break-In Procedure''' | ||
| + | Start-up is critical to ensure engine life. This procedure was written with the intent to provide a | ||
| + | quick reference and guideline to starting a new or rebuilt engine if a dyno is not available. If you | ||
| + | are using a dyno, refer to the dyno operator’s guidelines for start up and initial break in of the | ||
| + | engine. | ||
| + | 1. Safety First! Make sure you have proper tools as well as eye protection. | ||
| + | If the car is on the ground, be sure the wheels are chocked and the transmission is in | ||
| + | neutral. | ||
| + | 2. Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime the oil system. | ||
| + | 3. Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 rpm, with no-load for first 30 minutes. | ||
| + | 4. Refer to valve lash procedure and lash valves. | ||
| + | 5. Adjust the distributor timing to recommended specifications. | ||
| + | 6. Adjust Carburetor settings. Idle mixture screws, base idle, floats, etc. | ||
| + | 7. After first 30 minutes of the engine running, re-set ignition timing and carb adjustments. | ||
| + | 8. Drive the vehicle at varying speeds and loads for first 30 laps. Be sure not to use a lot of | ||
| + | throttle or high rpm’s. | ||
| + | 9. Run 5-6 medium-throttle accelerations to about 4500 rpm and letting off in gear and | ||
| + | coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | ||
| + | 10. Run a couple of hard-throttle acceleration to about 5000 rpm then letting off in gear and | ||
| + | coasting back down to 2000 rpm. | ||
| + | 11. Change the oil and filter, a PF1218 AC Delco oil filter (P/N 25160561) or | ||
| + | PF45 (P/N 25324052) and Mobil 1 Synthetic oil (P/N 12347284) are recommended. | ||
| + | 12. Drive the next 25 laps without high rpm’s (below 5000 rpm), hard use, or extended periods | ||
| + | of high loading. | ||
| + | 13. Change the oil and filter again. | ||
| + | 14. Your engine is now ready for racing. | ||
==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
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