How to prep and start a rebuilt engine
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Michigan (of Michigan bearings) sells a bearing assembly lube (blue, consistency like thin syrup), it's good for use on cam and crank bearings and journals. But 30W motor oil will work as well if the engine will be started immediately; the assembly lube is a little thicker so probably stays on the bearing/journals longer than motor oil. Lubriplate is also fine for this, especially if the engine won't be started immediately. Lubriplate is also OK for the rocker and valve tips and p-rod tips but use the thick, black moly cam break in lube for the pivot balls (if used). | Michigan (of Michigan bearings) sells a bearing assembly lube (blue, consistency like thin syrup), it's good for use on cam and crank bearings and journals. But 30W motor oil will work as well if the engine will be started immediately; the assembly lube is a little thicker so probably stays on the bearing/journals longer than motor oil. Lubriplate is also fine for this, especially if the engine won't be started immediately. Lubriplate is also OK for the rocker and valve tips and p-rod tips but use the thick, black moly cam break in lube for the pivot balls (if used). | ||
| − | === | + | ===Flat tappet cam and lifters=== |
| − | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys | + | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys like the red syrup. |
| − | + | Soaking the lifters in oil is fine. There is no need to pump them full of oil using a pushrod to stroke them full, but no harm if you do. No moly lube on the body of the lifter- just on the bottoms and the lobes of the cam. Don't neglect to work the lube into the surface of the cam lobes, especially. | |
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| + | ===Roller cam and lifters=== | ||
| + | Roller lifters and roller cam lobes do not need moly break in lube like used on flat tappet cams. Motor oil is sufficient. | ||
===Pistons/rings/cylinders=== | ===Pistons/rings/cylinders=== | ||
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