How to prep and start a rebuilt engine
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| − | + | ==Assembling a new engine== | |
| + | ===Bearings=== | ||
| + | Michigan (of Michigan bearings) sells a bearing assembly lube (blue, consistency like thin syrup), it's good for use on cam and crank bearings and journals. But 30W motor oil will work as well if the engine will be started immediately; the assembly lube is a little thicker so probably stays on the bearing/journals longer than motor oil. Lubriplate is also fine for this, especially if the engine won't be started immediately. Lubriplate is also OK for the rocker and valve tips and p-rod tips but use the thick, black moly cam break in lube for the pivot balls (if used). | ||
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| + | ===Cam and lifters=== | ||
| + | Use a black cam lube w/moly in it on the CLEAN lifter bottoms and cam lobes, including some on the distributor gear and fuel pump eccentric- but not on the bearings or journals. Work the lube in w/pressure (wear gloves- the stuff soaks into/stains the skin), not just laid on top of the surfaces. You want full coverage but not necessary to have it slathered all over the place dripping off, etc. It (the thick moly cam lube) will plug an oil filter if too much is used- but it would take a LOT to do so. Some guys say the red syrup is as good as the thick, black moly cam break in lube- I don't see how it can compare, though. It's thinner, runs off, and just doesn't have the "body" the black lube has. It could be so guys don't completely go overboard and plug the filter w/the thick lube. Or the syrup may be just as good. I have used the same Crane lube for years- I bought a case of it years ago, so I'm prejudiced. | ||
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| + | Lifters- soaking in oil is fine. No need to pump them full of oil using a pushrod to stroke them full, but no harm if you do. | ||
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| + | ===Pistons/rings/cylinders=== | ||
| + | Use a squirt oil can to lube the rings/ring lands- do not stick the piston down into a can of motor oil, it's just not needed. Wipe the cylinders down w/motor oil as well. No need to float the cylinders in oil- a light coating is all that's needed. | ||
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| + | ==Preparing the engine to be started== | ||
| + | ===Prelube=== | ||
| + | Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. | ||
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| + | ==Crate engine instructions== | ||
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| + | [[File:GM CRATE ENG BREAK-IN PROCEDURE.jpg|500px]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
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| + | ==Resources== | ||
| + | ;Crankshaft Coalition articles | ||
| + | *[[Adjusting hydraulic lifters]] | ||
| + | *[[Camshaft install tips and tricks]] | ||
| + | *[[Valve train points to check]] | ||
| + | *[[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]] | ||
| + | *[[Timing tabs and damper TDC lines SBC]] | ||
| + | *[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders Firing orders] | ||
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| + | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | ||
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