Editing How to prep and start a rebuilt engine (section)
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==Preparing the engine to be started== ===Prelube (pushrod V8s)=== Prelube the engine right before start up. Much is made of getting oil coming from all the pushrods, etc. but as long as the pump is pumping (you will definitely feel the drill labor when the pump is working) and you run the pump long enough to pressurize the system (plumb a temporary gauge to monitor the pressure while priming) and fill the oil filter and galleries, that's good enough- as soon as the engine starts there will be immediate oil pressure, and THAT is what's important- that the engine doesn't run w/o pressure. It's up to the builder whether to use a manual priming tool or a pressure vessel (below left) to prelube the oil system. Some engines require a pressure vessel because of how the oil pump is driven (some are driven directly off the crank or have a secondary shaft, etc.). Some examples of engines need to be primed using a pressurized primer system are the new MOPAR "Hemi", Ford Mod motors, and Chevy LSx. But most any engine can use a pressure preluber, regardless of the type of oil pump. When using a manual priming tool on a Chevy engine (example below right) there needs to be a collar at the bottom of the tool (red arrow) that completes the oil pathway that connects the passenger side to the driver side lifter oil gallery. If this collar isn't included, one side of the engine will not be pressurized and air will remain in the passages. The manual tool is spun in the normal direction of distributor rotation with a drill motor. If unsure, the direction of rotation of most common V8 engines can be looked up [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders '''here''']. [[File:Pressure preluber.jpg|thumb|left|250px|[http://www.melling.com/Aftermarket/HighPerformance/PreLubeTank.aspx Melling pressure preluber]]][[File:Chevy oil preluber tool.jpg|thumb|300px|right|Manual Chevy prelube tool]] {{clear}} A primer tool can be made from an old distributor by grinding the teeth from the distributor gear along with removing the mechanical advance mechanism. [[File:PRIMING TOOL CHEVY 001.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Homemade Chevy oil system priming tool]] {{Clear}} ===Prelube (OHC Engines with trochoid pumps)=== Crank-driven trochoid pumps are very efficient, but they need to be primed, so always fill all the galleries in and around the pump before assembly. Always spin the engine over on the starter before trying to start it (ensure you disable the ignition system before you try this - you don't want the engine to actually run). Do this until you have positive oil pressure. On a car with no pressure gauge, just remove the cam covers while doing this. Once you see oil squirting from the cam caps, then you're done. ===Timing (mechanical distributor) === For installing a Chevy V8 distributor and setting the timing so the engine will fire immediately, see [[How to install a distributor]]. Other distributors will install similarly, but be sure of the [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Firing_orders firing order and distributor rotation], along with any other details that might be different if another make of engine is being worked on. To help keep the engine from overheating, make sure the engine has plenty of ignition timing advance while it's running to break in the cam. You must not idle the engine even for just a minute, so set the timing using a dial back timing light or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_make_a_timing_tape make a timing tape] so you can see what the timing is at with the engine running at 2000-plus rpm. You can give it 32-34 degrees (not counting the vacuum advance), no problem. It will not hurt to connect the vacuum advance because the engine is running w/o a load, so there won't be detonation from excessive timing unless you were to go WAY up there. But 32 degrees without the vacuum advance hooked up, to as much as 45 degrees with the vacuum advance hooked up is OK. Placing a large fan in front of the radiator can help keep the engine cool as well. ===Timing (electronic) === ECU controlled timing is set by the ignition map - it won't change after break-in. On engines with OHC 4-valve heads you generally have a lot less advance than on 2 valve pushrod designs, so you don't want to use any more than 30 degrees.
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