Editing How to prep and start a rebuilt engine (section)
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===Oil after break in=== In the US, oil formulations are being changed due to pressure from the EPA. Zinc and phosphorus tend to coat O2 sensors and plug catalytic converters resulting in warranty claims as well as contributing to dirty exhaust emissions, so they are being eliminated from motor oils as we speak. These elements were used in the oil to provide extreme pressure lubrication and protection from galling on heavily loaded engine components such as the cam lobe/lifter crown interface. The oil companies have no choice, they have to follow the guidelines imposed on them. There are specialty/racing motor oil that will give protection to your new flat tappet cam and lifters. Generally speaking, "over the counter" motor oils are not up to the task; they are constantly changing formulations, so what might have been acceptable for use with a flat tappet valve train might not be the next time you look up the specs, so be very careful when selecting motor oil. GM has discontinued (and now have re-released) the EOS (Engine Oil Supplement). If you use a molybdenum disulphide-type cam and lifter break in lube applied to the foot of the lifter and cam lobes along with adding the recommended amount of ZDDP additive per quart of good quality oil for initial start up, along with allowing no idle time for the first 20 minutes of run time at 2000 plus rpm while varying engine speed, you've done about as well as you can to prevent lifter/lobe scuff/wear/failure. With subsequent oil changes, the recommended amount of oil supplement should be added at each oil/filter change in order to have along engine life. Or use an oil formulated with sufficient additives, sold by the aftermarket (Joe Gibbs, Royal Purple, etc.). The loss of those high pressure lubricant supplements from the motor oils that are now available have much less impact on newer engines because of the change to roller cams by the manufacturers. With a roller cam, there is no special procedure for break-in. You just oil the lifters, drop them in and no other special break-in procedures are needed for the cam and lifters. Obviously the rings and other new components will still require a break in period, but with a roller cam the biggest problem associated with breaking in a rebuilt engine (flat tappet cam lobe/lifter failure) is a thing of the past.
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