Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
(Add link) |
(→Crank bolt removal) |
||
| Line 13: | Line 13: | ||
Many engines use a bolt to hold the damper on. In some cases like the Pontiac V8, the bolt torque is significant- 160 ft/lb. This means removing it with the engine in the vehicle can be difficult. On some engines just the engine compression and the friction from the belt-driven accessories will allow the bolt to be removed. | Many engines use a bolt to hold the damper on. In some cases like the Pontiac V8, the bolt torque is significant- 160 ft/lb. This means removing it with the engine in the vehicle can be difficult. On some engines just the engine compression and the friction from the belt-driven accessories will allow the bolt to be removed. | ||
| − | An impact wrench will almost always remove the crank bolt without needing to hold the engine from turning. But the room between the bolt and radiator seldom allows an impact wrench to be used. If you have a helper, they can use a lever to hold the flex/flywheel from turning. | + | An impact wrench will almost always remove the crank bolt without needing to hold the engine from turning. But the room between the bolt and radiator seldom allows an impact wrench to be used. If you have a helper, they can use a lever to hold the flex/flywheel from turning. You can also run a pry bar or other similar prying tool through the puller bolts and wedge this tool against the vehicle frame, firewall, or ground to keep the crank from turning. |
An old trick for locking up the engine is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt. Reversing this procedure allows the bolt to be torqued- just be sure to remove/replace the cord after repositioning the crank/piston position so you're not bearing down on open valves. | An old trick for locking up the engine is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt. Reversing this procedure allows the bolt to be torqued- just be sure to remove/replace the cord after repositioning the crank/piston position so you're not bearing down on open valves. | ||
Your Privacy Choices