Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
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m (→Proceed without drilling the snout) |
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There are a couple things that will help ease the job. | There are a couple things that will help ease the job. | ||
− | *The damper is held on by a 0.0007"-0.0014" press fit. Heating the damper in 200º F hot water for | + | *The damper is held on by a 0.0007"-0.0014" press fit. Heating the damper in 200º F hot water for 15 minutes will cause it to expand a bit. Also chilling the crank snout with a bag of ice will shrink it a bit. Between the two, the difference can be enough to really ease the installation. Avoid using a torch on the damper hub. Overheating it risks damaging the damper and/or the front seal. |
− | *Use a sturdy block of wood like a 4-5" thick slice of a wooden fence post or 4x4 | + | *Use a sturdy block of wood like a 4-5" thick slice of a wooden fence post or 4x4- used grain-on, not across grain to help keep it from splitting- you'll be hitting it fairly hard in most cases, especially if no heat/cold is used. The wood is used to insulate the damper inner hub from the hammer blows. |
{{warning|NEVER hit the damper on the outer ring- this can break the bond between the rubber and steel, making the damper useless. NEVER hit the damper metal to metal with a hammer. A damaged damper could fail, possibly causing personal injury and damage to the vehicle or even bystanders. Use gloves and '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage#Eye protection|eye protection]]''' at a minimum.}} | {{warning|NEVER hit the damper on the outer ring- this can break the bond between the rubber and steel, making the damper useless. NEVER hit the damper metal to metal with a hammer. A damaged damper could fail, possibly causing personal injury and damage to the vehicle or even bystanders. Use gloves and '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage#Eye protection|eye protection]]''' at a minimum.}} | ||
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'''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers ''per se''; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers ''per se''; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | ||
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==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ||
(NOTE: This was previously a separate article originated by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. The two articles were combined into this article.) | (NOTE: This was previously a separate article originated by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. The two articles were combined into this article.) |