Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
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| − | == | + | ==Crank bolt removal== |
| + | Many engines use a bolt to hold the damper on. In some cases like the Pontiac V8, the bolt torque is significant- 160 ft/lb. This means removing it with the engine in the vehicle can be difficult. On some engines just the engine compression and the friction from the belt-driven accessories will allow the bolt to be removed. | ||
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| + | An impact wrench will almost always remove the crank bolt without needing to hold the engine from turning. But the room between the bolt and radiator seldom allows an impact wrench to be used. If you have a helper, they can use a lever to hold the flex/flywheel from turning. | ||
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| + | An old trick for locking up the engine is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt. Reversing this procedure allows the bolt to be torqued- just be sure to remove/replace the cord after repositioning the crank/piston position so you're not bearing down on open valves. | ||
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| + | ==Damper/balancer removal== | ||
The pulley and anything else in the way is first removed so the damper can be accessed. | The pulley and anything else in the way is first removed so the damper can be accessed. | ||
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===With threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ===With threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ||
If the crank snout is threaded, the use of a harmonic damper installer is possible. Simply follow the directions that come with the tool to install the damper, or see the instructions'''here'''. Use RTV in the crankshaft and damper keyway to keep oil from migrating through the key slot to the outside. Also be sure to grease the tool threads and the thrust washer to prevent galling. | If the crank snout is threaded, the use of a harmonic damper installer is possible. Simply follow the directions that come with the tool to install the damper, or see the instructions'''here'''. Use RTV in the crankshaft and damper keyway to keep oil from migrating through the key slot to the outside. Also be sure to grease the tool threads and the thrust washer to prevent galling. | ||
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| + | Torque the pulley and crankshaft bolts to spec. <br> | ||
| + | {{Note1}}'''[[Fastener torque]]''' has torque values for various engines. If your engine isn't covered, use the [http://www.derose.net/steve/resources/engtables/bolts.html '''appropriate table'''] to find the torque by the size/thread of the bolt. | ||
===Without threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ===Without threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ||
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[[File:Sbc damper install non threaded crank.jpg]] <br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:Sbc damper install non threaded crank.jpg]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| − | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers per se; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | + | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers ''per se''; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. |
==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ||
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