Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
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Many engines use a bolt to hold the damper on. In some cases like the Pontiac V8, the bolt torque is significant- 160 ft/lb. This means removing it with the engine in the vehicle can be difficult. On some engines just the engine compression and the friction from the belt-driven accessories will allow the bolt to be removed. | Many engines use a bolt to hold the damper on. In some cases like the Pontiac V8, the bolt torque is significant- 160 ft/lb. This means removing it with the engine in the vehicle can be difficult. On some engines just the engine compression and the friction from the belt-driven accessories will allow the bolt to be removed. | ||
| − | An impact wrench will almost always remove the crank bolt without needing to hold the engine from turning. But the room between the bolt and radiator seldom allows an impact wrench to be used. If you have a helper, they can use a lever to hold the flex/flywheel from turning. | + | An impact wrench will almost always remove the crank bolt without needing to hold the engine from turning. But the room between the bolt and radiator seldom allows an impact wrench to be used. If you have a helper, they can use a lever to hold the flex/flywheel from turning. You can also run a pry bar or other similar prying tool through the puller bolts and wedge this tool against the vehicle frame, firewall, or ground to keep the crank from turning. |
An old trick for locking up the engine is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt. Reversing this procedure allows the bolt to be torqued- just be sure to remove/replace the cord after repositioning the crank/piston position so you're not bearing down on open valves. | An old trick for locking up the engine is to remove the plug from an easy-to-reach cylinder and bring it up to TDC on the compression stroke. Then turn the crank CW some more (past TDC), and using clothes line cord or similar, fill the cylinder up w/the cord. Rotate the engine CCW until it stops turning, then you can loosen the bolt. Reversing this procedure allows the bolt to be torqued- just be sure to remove/replace the cord after repositioning the crank/piston position so you're not bearing down on open valves. | ||
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There are a couple things that will help ease the job. | There are a couple things that will help ease the job. | ||
| − | *The damper is held on by a 0.0007"-0.0014" press fit. Heating the damper in 200º F hot water for | + | *The damper is held on by a 0.0007"-0.0014" press fit. Heating the damper in 200º F hot water for 15 minutes will cause it to expand a bit. Overheating the damper risks damaging the damper and/or the front seal. Chilling the crank snout with a bag of ice will shrink the crank a bit and is a much more effective and safer method of easing installation without a threaded crank. |
| − | *Use a sturdy block of wood like a 4-5" thick slice of a wooden fence post or 4x4 | + | *Use a sturdy block of wood like a 4-5" thick slice of a wooden fence post or 4x4- used grain-on, not across grain to help keep it from splitting- you'll be hitting it fairly hard in most cases, especially if no heat/cold is used. The wood is used to insulate the damper inner hub from the hammer blows. |
{{warning|NEVER hit the damper on the outer ring- this can break the bond between the rubber and steel, making the damper useless. NEVER hit the damper metal to metal with a hammer. A damaged damper could fail, possibly causing personal injury and damage to the vehicle or even bystanders. Use gloves and '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage#Eye protection|eye protection]]''' at a minimum.}} | {{warning|NEVER hit the damper on the outer ring- this can break the bond between the rubber and steel, making the damper useless. NEVER hit the damper metal to metal with a hammer. A damaged damper could fail, possibly causing personal injury and damage to the vehicle or even bystanders. Use gloves and '''[[Health and safety in the shop or garage#Eye protection|eye protection]]''' at a minimum.}} | ||
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'''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers ''per se''; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers ''per se''; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | ||
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==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ||
(NOTE: This was previously a separate article originated by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. The two articles were combined into this article.) | (NOTE: This was previously a separate article originated by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. The two articles were combined into this article.) | ||
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[[File:Measuring points damper - keyway.jpg|thumb|550px|left|Measuring points of damper and crank snout]] | [[File:Measuring points damper - keyway.jpg|thumb|550px|left|Measuring points of damper and crank snout]] | ||
| − | [[File:Crank snout - keyway dimensions.jpg|thumb|750px|left|Crank snout OD; damper ID; key/keyway dimensions]] <br style="clear:both"/>(NOTE: Two drawings immediately above from Professional Products) | + | [[File:Crank snout - keyway dimensions.jpg|thumb|750px|left|Crank snout OD; damper ID; key/keyway dimensions]] <br style="clear:both"/>(NOTE: Two drawings immediately above from [[Media:General Damper Instr.pdf|Professional Products]]) |
==References== | ==References== | ||
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