Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
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| − | =Overview= | + | ==Overview== |
The harmonic balancer or damper is usually a tight press-fit onto the end, or "snout" of the crankshaft. This is so the torsional vibrations of the crankshaft generated by the power pulses of the engine can be transmitted to- and absorbed or dissipated by- the harmonic balancer. If the fit isn't tight, the harmonic balancer will not be able to absorb the vibrations and in some cases this can lead to a failure of the crank or damper key/keyway that locates the damper on the crankshaft in the correct position, or the retaining bolt could fail, not to mention possible internal engine damage resulting from the undamped harmonics. | The harmonic balancer or damper is usually a tight press-fit onto the end, or "snout" of the crankshaft. This is so the torsional vibrations of the crankshaft generated by the power pulses of the engine can be transmitted to- and absorbed or dissipated by- the harmonic balancer. If the fit isn't tight, the harmonic balancer will not be able to absorb the vibrations and in some cases this can lead to a failure of the crank or damper key/keyway that locates the damper on the crankshaft in the correct position, or the retaining bolt could fail, not to mention possible internal engine damage resulting from the undamped harmonics. | ||
| − | =Tools= | + | ==Tools== |
It is always advisable to use a dedicated removal tool for damper removal. To do otherwise risks damaging the damper beyond repair, damaging the crankshaft or other related parts and covers, or causing personal injury. Because of how tightly most dampers are pressed onto the crank, there's basically no way a damper should be able to be pried off anyway (one possible exception is the Pontiac V8, its damper is sometimes a tight hand fit, having a torque of 120 ft/lb for the 1/2-20 retaining bolt. Heat cannot be used because there could be damage to the damper oil seal. Also most dampers have an elastomeric band that separated the inner hub from the outer inertia ring. Heat can ruin the bond between the two, causing catastrophic failure of the damper that could damage the radiator, water pump, front mounted accessories, the hood, could possibly sever engine oil or ATF cooler lines, radiator hoses, etc. | It is always advisable to use a dedicated removal tool for damper removal. To do otherwise risks damaging the damper beyond repair, damaging the crankshaft or other related parts and covers, or causing personal injury. Because of how tightly most dampers are pressed onto the crank, there's basically no way a damper should be able to be pried off anyway (one possible exception is the Pontiac V8, its damper is sometimes a tight hand fit, having a torque of 120 ft/lb for the 1/2-20 retaining bolt. Heat cannot be used because there could be damage to the damper oil seal. Also most dampers have an elastomeric band that separated the inner hub from the outer inertia ring. Heat can ruin the bond between the two, causing catastrophic failure of the damper that could damage the radiator, water pump, front mounted accessories, the hood, could possibly sever engine oil or ATF cooler lines, radiator hoses, etc. | ||
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[[File:SUM-G1025 damper puller-installer.jpg|frame|left|Summit p/n G1025 damper puller/installer tool]][[File:Cheap damper puller.jpg|frame|right|250px|Cheap puller]][[File:Damper installer tool.jpg|frame|left|300px|Damper installer tool, metric and inch crank threads]] | [[File:SUM-G1025 damper puller-installer.jpg|frame|left|Summit p/n G1025 damper puller/installer tool]][[File:Cheap damper puller.jpg|frame|right|250px|Cheap puller]][[File:Damper installer tool.jpg|frame|left|300px|Damper installer tool, metric and inch crank threads]] | ||
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==Removal== | ==Removal== | ||
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===With threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ===With threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ||
| + | If the crank snout is threaded, the use of a harmonic damper installer is possible. Simply follow the directions that come with the tool to install the damper, or see the instructions'''here'''. Use RTV in the crankshaft and damper keyway to keep oil from migrating through the key slot to the outside. Also be sure to grease the tool threads and the thrust washer to prevent galling. | ||
===Without threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ===Without threaded damper bolt hole in crank=== | ||
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[[File:Sbc damper install non threaded crank.jpg]] <br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:Sbc damper install non threaded crank.jpg]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| − | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers per se | + | |
| + | '''NOTE:''' The reference to threading capscrews to hold the hub and "flywheel" in place is for a 265 cid SBC that used a pulley and hub riveted to the flywheel. These were not actually dampers per se; they contained no rubber or other means of absorbing/dissipating harmonics. | ||
==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ==Harmonic damper install- honing to fit== | ||
| − | (This was previously a separate article by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. | + | (NOTE: This was previously a separate article originated by Techinspector1, '''''Harmonic damper install'''''. The two articles were combined into this article.) |
The question arose the other day when someone suggested honing a damper hub in order to get it to press onto the crank snout of a SBC a little easier. Another contributor said there was no way he would hone a damper. The following is my reply: | The question arose the other day when someone suggested honing a damper hub in order to get it to press onto the crank snout of a SBC a little easier. Another contributor said there was no way he would hone a damper. The following is my reply: | ||
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Now, on your way home from having the machine shop hone the hub of your damper, stop by and pick up some dry ice. Once you get home, break up the dry ice into a one gallon baggie and wrap it loosely around the crank snout. Put the damper in a pan of water and bring it to a boil on the kitchen stove. Remove the pot from the stove and carry the whole thing to the garage. Remove the dry ice baggie from the crank snout. Spray the crank snout with WD40. With gloves on to prevent burning your hands, place the damper onto the end of the crank and engage your install tool. | Now, on your way home from having the machine shop hone the hub of your damper, stop by and pick up some dry ice. Once you get home, break up the dry ice into a one gallon baggie and wrap it loosely around the crank snout. Put the damper in a pan of water and bring it to a boil on the kitchen stove. Remove the pot from the stove and carry the whole thing to the garage. Remove the dry ice baggie from the crank snout. Spray the crank snout with WD40. With gloves on to prevent burning your hands, place the damper onto the end of the crank and engage your install tool. | ||
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| + | [[File:Measuring points damper - keyway.jpg|thumb|550px|left|Measuring points of damper and crank snout]] | ||
| + | [[File:Crank snout - keyway dimensions.jpg|thumb|750px|left|Crank snout OD; damper ID; key/keyway dimensions]] <br style="clear:both"/>(NOTE: Two drawings immediately above from Professional Products) | ||
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| + | ==References== | ||
| + | *[http://www.professional-products.com/PDF%20Instructions/General%20Damper%20Instructions.pdf Removal and installation info and specifics about various makes of engines] | ||
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[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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