Harmonic balancer/damper - How to remove and install
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=Overview= | =Overview= | ||
| − | The harmonic balancer or damper is usually a tight press-fit onto the end of the crankshaft. This is so the torsional vibrations of the crankshaft generated by the power pulses of the engine can be transmitted to- and absorbed or dissipated by- the harmonic balancer. If the fit isn't tight, the harmonic balancer will not be able to absorb the vibrations and in some cases this can lead to a failure of the key/keyway that locates the | + | The harmonic balancer or damper is usually a tight press-fit onto the end, or "snout" of the crankshaft. This is so the torsional vibrations of the crankshaft generated by the power pulses of the engine can be transmitted to- and absorbed or dissipated by- the harmonic balancer. If the fit isn't tight, the harmonic balancer will not be able to absorb the vibrations and in some cases this can lead to a failure of the crank or damper key/keyway that locates the damper on the crankshaft in the correct position, or the retaining bolt could fail, not to mention possible internal engine damage resulting from the undamped harmonics. |
=Tools= | =Tools= | ||
| − | It is always advisable to use a dedicated tool for damper removal. To do otherwise risks damaging the damper beyond repair, damaging the crankshaft or other related parts and covers, or personal injury. Because of how tightly most dampers are pressed onto the crank, there's basically no way a damper | + | It is always advisable to use a dedicated removal tool for damper removal. To do otherwise risks damaging the damper beyond repair, damaging the crankshaft or other related parts and covers, or causing personal injury. Because of how tightly most dampers are pressed onto the crank, there's basically no way a damper should be able to be pried off anyway (one possible exception is the Pontiac V8, its damper is sometimes a tight hand fit, having a torque of 120 ft/lb for the 1/2-20 retaining bolt. Heat cannot be used because there could be damage to the damper oil seal. Also most dampers have an elastomeric band that separated the inner hub from the outer inertia ring. Heat can ruin the bond between the two, causing catastrophic failure of the damper that could damage the radiator, water pump, front mounted accessories, the hood, could possibly sever engine oil or ATF cooler lines, radiator hoses, etc. |
While there are cheap pullers available that are usually good for a couple uses before it strips out or bends, unless this is a one-time repair and it's not anticipated to ever be done a second time it's always a good idea to invest in a quality tool that's made to last. | While there are cheap pullers available that are usually good for a couple uses before it strips out or bends, unless this is a one-time repair and it's not anticipated to ever be done a second time it's always a good idea to invest in a quality tool that's made to last. | ||
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The puller is installed using the same thread bolts that secured the bottom pulley. The procedure shown is for most engines up until the LS-series Chevy and the Gen 3 Hemi, etc. | The puller is installed using the same thread bolts that secured the bottom pulley. The procedure shown is for most engines up until the LS-series Chevy and the Gen 3 Hemi, etc. | ||
| − | Start out with the puller center screw lubricated well. | + | Start out with the puller center screw lubricated well. Most cranks will have a recess for the puller shaft nose to index on. |
[[File:Balancer puller installed.jpg]] | [[File:Balancer puller installed.jpg]] | ||
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