Freeing a stuck engine

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(Preparation)
(Preparation)
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What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant- but stuck- is usually an easy fix. The rings, which are cast iron, are usually stuck to the cast iron cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out and inject [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Removing_stuck_fasteners#Some_recommended_penetrating_fluids penetrating oil] with a trigger type oil can.<br>  
 
What you discovered above will lead you to understanding the solution to unsticking the engine. An engine that was in a covered shed, had no visible sign of water infiltration, and was full of oil and coolant- but stuck- is usually an easy fix. The rings, which are cast iron, are usually stuck to the cast iron cylinder walls but only in the cylinders which are open to the atmosphere. If you followed the firing order of the engine, you could determine which are open cylinders and which are closed. You can start by pulling the spark plugs out and inject [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Removing_stuck_fasteners#Some_recommended_penetrating_fluids penetrating oil] with a trigger type oil can.<br>  
  
Diesel fuel reeks and will leave a foul smell on everything it comes in contact with. For that reason, diesel fuel is not recommended for use unless that is all that's available. Marvel Mystery Oil, PB blaster or WD-40 are all acceptable, and kerosene or kerosene/ATF mixed together works as well. DO NOT use gasoline or other highly flammable solvents as they do not provide any lubricity, plus they are a respiratory and fire hazard. <br>
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Diesel fuel reeks and will leave a foul smell on everything it comes in contact with. For that reason, diesel fuel is not recommended for use unless that is all that's available. Marvel Mystery Oil, PB Blaster, or even  kerosene/ATF mixed together are all acceptable. WD 40 or kerosene may work but are not as effective as some of the others fluids mentioned. DO NOT use gasoline or other highly flammable solvents as they do not provide any lubricity, plus they are a respiratory and fire hazard. <br>
{{Note1}}Some years ago, a machinist's magazine did a [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=machinist+magazine+penetrating+oil controlled study on penetrating oils], and found that ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone outperformed all other penetrating oils by a wide margin. Be aware that caution should be used when mixing or applying acetone-containing mixtures. Acetone is highly flammable, especially so when suspended in air and should be handled with care.  
+
{{Note1}}Some years ago, a machinist's magazine did a [https://duckduckgo.com/?q=machinist+magazine+penetrating+oil controlled study on penetrating oils], and found that ATF mixed 50/50 with acetone outperformed all other penetrating oils by a wide margin. Be aware that caution should be used when mixing or applying acetone-containing mixtures. Acetone is highly flammable, especially so when suspended in air and should be handled with care. Acetone is also an inhalation hazard.
  
[[File:MMO gall.png|MMO gall.png]] [[File:W-d40 gallon.jpg]][[File:PB Blaster gallon.jpg]]
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[[File:MMO gall.png|MMO gall.png]] [[File:PB Blaster gallon.jpg]]
  
 
Use plenty of penetrant in each spark plug hole and allow to sit for a few hours. While that's working, (if the engine is in a vehicle) back off on the fan belts, remove the air cleaner and valve covers. Charge up the battery, clean the cables and make sure all electrical connections are tight. Remove the fan shroud if there is one. Get a long breaker bar with the appropriate socket for the front pulley bolt. Remove the coil wire from the distributor/coil. Get some help if you think you need it.
 
Use plenty of penetrant in each spark plug hole and allow to sit for a few hours. While that's working, (if the engine is in a vehicle) back off on the fan belts, remove the air cleaner and valve covers. Charge up the battery, clean the cables and make sure all electrical connections are tight. Remove the fan shroud if there is one. Get a long breaker bar with the appropriate socket for the front pulley bolt. Remove the coil wire from the distributor/coil. Get some help if you think you need it.

Revision as of 12:33, 30 May 2015

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