Freeing a stuck engine
m (→Breaking the engine loose) |
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You can also use Marvel Mystery Oil (comes in red bottles) for this, PB blaster/WD-40 is good and Kerosene works as well. Unless the engine us super-stuck, DO NOT use gasoline or a solvent like product unless absolutely necessary, as they do not provide any lubricity. | You can also use Marvel Mystery Oil (comes in red bottles) for this, PB blaster/WD-40 is good and Kerosene works as well. Unless the engine us super-stuck, DO NOT use gasoline or a solvent like product unless absolutely necessary, as they do not provide any lubricity. | ||
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The 1954 Flood and Hurricane in New England , many cars were submerged. My Grand father and another fella got these cars cheap and I remember helping as a kid they drained the oil out and put in warm water and Tide soap and ran the engines at an idle for an hour or so. then they drained the water and quickly filled the crank case with kerosine and idled the car for another hour or so. After this they put in regular oil and ran the car as a usual car. many cars were sold this way and I remember people driving the cars with kitchen chairs bolted to the drivers floor while they looked for seats in a junk yard. | The 1954 Flood and Hurricane in New England , many cars were submerged. My Grand father and another fella got these cars cheap and I remember helping as a kid they drained the oil out and put in warm water and Tide soap and ran the engines at an idle for an hour or so. then they drained the water and quickly filled the crank case with kerosine and idled the car for another hour or so. After this they put in regular oil and ran the car as a usual car. many cars were sold this way and I remember people driving the cars with kitchen chairs bolted to the drivers floor while they looked for seats in a junk yard. | ||
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You now have to make a choice: run the engine as is, or pull the heads and pan to check for damages. If you're going to do a compression test or a leakdown test, drain and re-fill with new oil. Circulate the new oil throughout the oil galleries by cranking the engine 50 crankshaft revolutions to purge the diesel fuel, and then start the engine to warm it up and burn off some of the diesel fuel in the engine. In most cases you should go the overhaul route, checking for wear, mic'ing out the bores and clearances of bearings, etc. | You now have to make a choice: run the engine as is, or pull the heads and pan to check for damages. If you're going to do a compression test or a leakdown test, drain and re-fill with new oil. Circulate the new oil throughout the oil galleries by cranking the engine 50 crankshaft revolutions to purge the diesel fuel, and then start the engine to warm it up and burn off some of the diesel fuel in the engine. In most cases you should go the overhaul route, checking for wear, mic'ing out the bores and clearances of bearings, etc. | ||
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| + | I figured this out a long time ago if the engine is altogether I ran 180 degree water through the system remove the Thermostat hook up your hoses to your heating unit and pump the hot water thru the system. Most frozen engines are rings stuck to cylinder walls. The heat usual expands the cast iron faster than the pistons, and wallah you have it lose. I used a oil burner and home made system with pump Also if stubborn fill the intake with Diesel fuel to get the valves on tops of pistons to force the hot water thru the engine. Hook a battery or cables to the starter and budge it as you pump water. | ||
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==Unsticking the impossible== | ==Unsticking the impossible== | ||
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