Freeing a stuck engine
(→Engine flushing) |
(→Taking a look at the engine) |
||
| Line 9: | Line 9: | ||
==Taking a look at the engine== | ==Taking a look at the engine== | ||
| − | Start by removing the air cleaner. While removing the air cleaner, check for moisture or water puddles in the oil bath or in the bottom of the filter housing. It might be dry ''now'', but look for evidence of there | + | Start by removing the air cleaner. While removing the air cleaner, check for moisture or water puddles in the oil bath or in the bottom of the filter housing. It might be dry ''now'', but look for evidence of there having been standing water in the past. The reason that you are looking for moisture is to determine how much water could be within the engine. If snow is blown into the engine compartment, it will melt and puddle out inside the air cleaner, intake manifold, lifter valley, etc, but not necessarily make its way deep into the engine. If the engine has been flooded by means of overland flooding and rising water, then you could also have an accumulation of silt and dirt within the engine. Dirt and water within the engine is the worst kind of engine lock that you can experience. |
| − | Pull the dipstick and check for water in the engine oil. If you find water in the oil, try | + | Pull the dipstick and check for water in the engine oil. If you find water in the oil, try to determine how much there is. Start by removing the oil drain plug from the oil pan and watch what comes out. Water will exit first, followed by whatever oil that may be left. If the engine was flooded excessively, there will be basically no oil left; it will have been pushed out by the rising water. The ratio of water to oil that comes out of the oil pan is an indication of whether the reciprocating assembly was submerged or not. |
| − | Open the radiator cap and check for coolant. If no coolant is present in the upper tank, open the drain tap and check for the presence of antifreeze. You can remove | + | Open the radiator cap and check for coolant. If no coolant is present in the upper tank, open the drain tap and check for the presence of antifreeze. You can remove an upper radiator hose housing and check under the thermostat, too. In some cases, you can open an engine block tap or remove a water jacket stud to look for coolant, too. |
{| | {| | ||
|[[File:Bearing damaged from sitting in water.jpg|thumb|350px|Surface etched, otherwise salvageable if inspection is OK]] | |[[File:Bearing damaged from sitting in water.jpg|thumb|350px|Surface etched, otherwise salvageable if inspection is OK]] | ||
| Line 32: | Line 32: | ||
The silt particles present in flood water could accumulate deep inside of the engine and hang on to the rough casting surfaces of all the internal workings. These particles are so small that when they are in solution they will infiltrate the oil clearance of a bearing. When the water dries, they will form a layer of dust within the bearing. The dust will wick up the oil from the surface and water vapor from the air will start to rust the steel surface over time. The dust may also have acids and alkalies (caustics) attached to it, and together with water vapor will etch the bearing and journal surfaces. | The silt particles present in flood water could accumulate deep inside of the engine and hang on to the rough casting surfaces of all the internal workings. These particles are so small that when they are in solution they will infiltrate the oil clearance of a bearing. When the water dries, they will form a layer of dust within the bearing. The dust will wick up the oil from the surface and water vapor from the air will start to rust the steel surface over time. The dust may also have acids and alkalies (caustics) attached to it, and together with water vapor will etch the bearing and journal surfaces. | ||
| − | After a flood, newer, essential and operational vehicles take priority for being repaired, others will have to wait. Many flooded engines will just have to wait, sometimes after the winter freeze-up, sometimes even longer. Internal damage and cracked blocks and heads are | + | After a flood, newer, essential and operational vehicles take priority for being repaired, others will have to wait. Many flooded engines will just have to wait, sometimes after the winter freeze-up, sometimes even longer. Internal damage and cracked blocks and heads are often the result of frozen water. Sometimes they will end up being junked for the cast iron. If these engines are gotten to ''before'' such damage occurs, they may be able to be salvaged intact. |
==Preparation== | ==Preparation== | ||
Your Privacy Choices