Frame swaps

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m (tidy up a few bits spelling)
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Here's how I might do the "lower than stock" build.  
 
Here's how I might do the "lower than stock" build.  
With your Dakota donor truck still complete and sitting level, put an inclinometer on the lower control arms and write down the angle. (assuming you're using a 2-wheel drive donor). This will insure that when the International is finished, the angle of the Dakota lower control arms will be the same as they were stock and all the suspension geometry will be stock. Use the inclinometer on some part of the frame or spring hat or upper control arm mounting points inside the engine compartment to find the fore-aft angle of the front of the frame. You'll need this information later when you mate the Dakota clip to the International center section to make certain the clip is the same as stock so that you don't screw up the caster that's engineered into the front suspension. Write it down. With the Dakota front clip cut off at the firewall and sitting loose, disassemble and remove the springs and shocks. Re-assemble without springs using All-thread, washers, nuts and whatever it takes to put the All-thread in where the shocks mounted to hold the whole mess together without the springs and at the control arm angle you found when you put the inclinometer on the lower control arms of the Dakota when the truck was complete. Chock up the Dakota clip at the fore-aft attitude you found with the inclinometer in the engine compartment of the Dakota when it was still complete. With the International cab and center frame clip positioned at the height and attitude you want as a finished product, roll the Dakota clip into place and connect the Dakota clip to the International middle frame section. Use your gas axe to cut pieces off the Dakota/International frame clips where they interfere with each other as you roll the Dakota frame clip into position. Position the center of the front wheel of the Dakota clip relative to the International body using the dimension you wrote down when you originally dropped a line from the body. Of course, you'll want to fish-plate the connections you make at the Dakota/International frame connection to assure integrity of the graft. The resulting connection might look somewhat like a "Z" as viewed from the side. This is called Z-ing the frame.
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With your Dakota donor truck still complete and sitting level, put an inclinometer on the lower control arms and write down the angle. (assuming you're using a 2-wheel drive donor). This will insure that when the International is finished, the angle of the Dakota lower control arms will be the same as they were stock and all the suspension geometry will be stock. Use the inclinometer on some part of the frame or spring hat or upper control arm mounting points inside the engine compartment to find the fore-aft angle of the front of the frame. You'll need this information later when you mate the Dakota clip to the International center section to make certain the clip is the same as stock so that you don't screw up the caster that's engineered into the front suspension. Write it down. With the Dakota front clip cut off at the firewall and sitting loose, disassemble and remove the torsion bars and shocks. Re-assemble without the bars using All-thread, washers, nuts and whatever it takes to put the All-thread in where the shocks mounted to hold the whole mess together without the torsion bars and at the control arm angle you found when you put the inclinometer on the lower control arms of the Dakota when the truck was complete. Chock up the Dakota clip at the fore-aft attitude you found with the inclinometer in the engine compartment of the Dakota when it was still complete. With the International cab and center frame clip positioned at the height and attitude you want as a finished product, roll the Dakota clip into place and connect the Dakota clip to the International middle frame section. Use your gas axe to cut pieces off the Dakota/International frame clips where they interfere with each other as you roll the Dakota frame clip into position. Position the center of the front wheel of the Dakota clip relative to the International body using the dimension you wrote down when you originally dropped a line from the body. Of course, you'll want to fish-plate the connections you make at the Dakota/International frame connection to assure integrity of the graft. The resulting connection might look somewhat like a "Z" as viewed from the side. This is called Z-ing the frame.
 
   
 
   
  

Revision as of 20:47, 17 October 2010

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