DynoSim combinations

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====Results====
 
====Results====
'''RPM HP TQ'''
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:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 148 389
 
*2000 148 389
 
*2500 188 395
 
*2500 188 395
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====Results====
 
====Results====
'''RPM HP TQ'''
+
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 145 382
 
*2000 145 382
 
*2500 185 390
 
*2500 185 390
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*Cut top of guide for 0.550" play from bottom of retainer to top of guide seal. Pin the pressed-in rocker studs with [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-806G?autofilter=1&part=MRG-806G&N=700+4294746236+115&autoview=sku this kit].
 
*Cut top of guide for 0.550" play from bottom of retainer to top of guide seal. Pin the pressed-in rocker studs with [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-806G?autofilter=1&part=MRG-806G&N=700+4294746236+115&autoview=sku this kit].
 
*Performance Distributors custom curved HEI distributor,  [http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm p/n 12720], or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor '''build your own'''] from a GM HEI.
 
*Performance Distributors custom curved HEI distributor,  [http://www.performancedistributors.com/gmssdui.htm p/n 12720], or [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Hot_rodding_the_HEI_distributor '''build your own'''] from a GM HEI.
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley *6 psi max at the inlet.
+
*Edelbrock RPM Vortec intake mounting a 750 vacuum secondary carb of your choice. Edelbrock, Rochester 5 psi max at the inlet, Holley 6 psi max at the inlet.
*Performer RPM Vortec w/natural finish: #7116, w/EnduraShine finish: #71164, w/polished finish: #71161 '''-OR-'''
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*Performer RPM Vortec w/natural finish: #7116, w/EnduraShine finish: #71164, w/polished finish: #71161, or look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few shekels.  
*Look for a used manifold on craigslist to save a few shekels.  
+
*Long-tube 1-5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2-1/2" to 3" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
*Long-tube 1 5/8" headers with X or H pipe right after the collectors, 2 1/2"/2 3/4" pipes to the rear through mufflers of your choice.
+
 
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears.  
 
*Use 2500 stall converter, shorter rear gears.  
 
    
 
    
 +
====Results====
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 138 364
 
*2000 138 364
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**Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000
 
**Peak BMEP 184.5 @4000
  
 +
===350 with dual four barrels===
 +
* Pistons: flat-top, 7cc's, 1.561" CH [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/...php?action=comp p/n KB106-030]
 +
*Heads: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/ Edelbrock E-Street] p/n 5073, 185cc intake runners, 70cc chambers, 9.53:1 SCR. Published flow was factored by 0.95 for this exercise.
 +
*High leak-down rate flat tappet hydraulic lifters such as Crane 99377-16 Hi Intensity Hydraulic Lifters because we are going to use "too much" cam for the SCR. These lifters will reduce duration by 6-10 degrees under 3000 rpm for better bottom end torque.
 +
*Cam: Crane [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-110591/ '''p/n 110591'''] Saturday Night Special flat tappet hydraulic, installed 2 degrees retarded.
 +
*With pistons at 1.561", rods at 5.703" and crank radius at 1.740", the stack measures 9.004", so with a nominal 9.025" block deck height, you would need to make a cut of 0.021" to get to zero deck. A 0.040" compressed gasket would then put the squish at 0.040".
 +
*1-5/8" long tube headers.
 +
*Edelbrock 2x4 RPM intake manifold mounting two 500cfm carbs.
  
 
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====Results====
 
+
 
+
'''350 WITH TWO FOUR BARRELS'''
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*KB106-030 pistons, flat-top, 7cc's, 1.561" CH: [http://www.kb-silvolite.com/kb_car/...php?action=comp]
+
*Edelbrock E-Street heads, #5073, 185cc intake runners, 70cc chambers: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/], 9.53:1 SCR. Published flow was factored by 0.95 for this exercise.
+
*High leak-down rate flat tappet hyd lifters such as Crane 99377-16 Hi Intensity Hydraulic Lifters because we are going to use "too much" cam for the SCR. These lifters will reduce duration by 6-10 degrees under 3000 rpm's for better bottom end torque figures.
+
*Crane Saturday Night Special #110591 flat tappet hyd cam: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-110591/], installed 2 degrees retarded.
+
*With pistons at 1.561", rods at 5.703" and crank radius at 1.740", the stack measures 9.004", so with a nominal 9.025" block deck height, you would need to make a cut of 0.021" to get to zero deck.
+
*A 0.040" compressed gasket would then put the squish at 0.040".
+
*1 5/8" long tube headers.
+
*Edelbrock 2-4 RPM intake manifold mounting two 500's.
+
 
+
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 145 381
 
*2000 145 381
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**This motor should be waaaaaay fun with a 4-speed or auto with a loose converter.
 
**This motor should be waaaaaay fun with a 4-speed or auto with a loose converter.
  
 
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===400 SBC street/strip truck motor.===
 
+
'''This would be my recipe for a street/strip truck motor.'''
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*400 block bored 0.030" and zero decked to the piston crowns, align honed main bearing bore.
 
*400 block bored 0.030" and zero decked to the piston crowns, align honed main bearing bore.
*Scat #9-400-3750-5700 cast steel Pro Comp crankshaft: [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...-3750-5700.html].
+
*Scat [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...-3750-5700.html p/n 9-400-3750-5700] cast steel Pro Comp crankshaft.
*Scat Forged I-beam 5.7" rods: [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...2-ICR5700P.html].
+
*Scat [http://www.race-mart.com/Scat_Manuf...2-ICR5700P.html forged I-beam 5.7" rods].
*Keith Black #UEM-KB168-030 hypereutectic pistons 22cc dish to make 9.8:1 static compression ratio with 64cc heads: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030].
+
*Keith Black [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030 p/n UEM-KB168-030] hypereutectic pistons with 22cc dish to make 9.8:1 static compression ratio with 64cc heads.
*CompCams #CCA-12-430-8 retro-fit hydraulic roller cam installed 2 degrees retarded: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-430-8/].
+
*Comp Cams [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-430-8/ p/n CCA-12-430-8] retro-fit hydraulic roller cam installed 2 degrees retarded.
*Howard's retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/].
+
*Howard's [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/ retro-fit hydraulic roller lifters].
*CompCams #CCA-200 thrust button: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-200/].
+
*Comp Cams [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-200/ p/n CCA-200] thrust button.
*CompCams #CCA-201 wear plate: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-201/].
+
*Comp Cams [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-201/ p/n CCA-201] wear plate.
*Edelbrock #EDL-7101 RPM intake manifold: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7101/].
+
*Edelbrock [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-7101/ p/n EDL-7101] Performer RPM intake manifold.
*Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 cast iron heads #DRT-10521123P: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10521123P/] (price shown is for one head).
+
*Dart Iron Eagle Platinum 215 cast iron heads, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DRT-10521123P/ p/n DRT-10521123P] (price shown is for one head).
*Barry Grant Speed Demon 750: [http://www.amazon.com/Barry-Grant-1...r/dp/B000CIN32M] (BG is now defunct, so a similar carb would be substituted).
+
*Barry Grant [http://www.amazon.com/Barry-Grant-1...r/dp/B000CIN32M Speed Demon 750] (BG is now defunct, so a similar carb may be substituted).
*Jegs air filter base: [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908] Run a hose from the base to your PCV valve.
+
*Jegs [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908 air filter base]. Run a hose from the base to your PCV system's clean air inlet on opposite side from the PCV valve.
*Jegs air filter lid: [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908].
+
*Jegs [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5003...roductId=751908 air filter lid].
*14" x 4" paper element: [http://www.shopping.com/Allstar-ALL...4hO3SNWw==/info]. Snag the correct length stud and a wing nut from your local Ace Hardware.
+
*14" x 4" [http://www.shopping.com/Allstar-ALL...4hO3SNWw==/info paper filter element]. Snag the correct length stud and a wing nut from your local Ace Hardware.
*Hedman Elite headers, 1 3/4" primaries: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69088].
+
*Hedman [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HED-69088 Elite headers], 1-3/4" primaries.
  
 +
====Results====
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 154 405
 
*2000 154 405
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*6000 515 451
 
*6000 515 451
 
*6500 490 396
 
*6500 490 396
L31 Vortec heads need a lot of work to get them to the point that you can make any power with them and use enough cam to make that power and it will take a lot of money. Start off with the correct heads to do the job in the first place. I did manage to make 450 hp and 482 ft/lbs of torque with a set on a 406, but that's a long ways from the 515/521 made with the "correct for the application" Dart heads.
 
  
Use 16 degrees ignition lead at the crank and put another 18 degrees in at the distributor weights for a total of 34. If the motor needs a little more total, move the lead at the crank to 18 degrees. You will not need some Super-Slick, Double-Throwdown ignition system. A rebuilt GM HEI will work nicely. Roller lifters are heavy and will limit the RPM's to just over 6000 anyway, so you don't need fire above that anyway.  
+
{{Note1}} L31 Vortec heads need work to use enough cam to make really good power. This can run into a lot of money. It may be cheaper to start off with an aftermarket head in the first place. That said, using production Vortec heads this 406 SBC combo did make an estimated 450 hp and 482 ft/lb of torque. But using a set of Dart heads the same combo made 515 hp and 521 ft/lb torque.
  
Run a nylon or copper line from the carburetor inlet back to the firewall and up past the hood lip to the cowl of the truck. On the cowl, temporarily mount a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (0-15 psi) so that you can view it through the windshield as you drive. Regulate fuel pressure down to 5-5 1/2 psi. If you have too much fuel pressure, it will blow past the needle and seat in the bowl and into the intake manifold as raw fuel. This will cause you untold tuning nightmares, so get this under control first thing. DO NOT TAKE ANYBODY'S WORD FOR THE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE THEIR PUMP PUTS OUT. MONITOR THE GAUGE AND CHECK IT YOURSELF OR SUFFER THE CONSEQUENCES.
+
=====Timing=====
 +
Use 16 degrees initial timing advance and 18 degrees of mechanical advance for a total of 34. If the motor needs a little more total, move the lead at the crank to 18 degrees. You will not need a high-dollar ignition system. A rebuilt GM HEI will work nicely. See '''[[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]]''' for more info.
  
The 400 block will require that you drill steam holes in the heads. Any manufacturer you buy from will drill them for you before they ship the heads to you. Install the heads with a head gasket that is designed for installation on a 400 block because the gaskets will also have steam holes in them from the manufacturer. Here is the procedure in the event you want to know how to do it: [http://www.gregsengine.com/converti...ads-to-400.html].
+
=====Fuel pressure=====
 +
If you have too much fuel pressure, it will blow past the needle and seat in the bowl and into the intake manifold as raw fuel. This will cause you untold tuning nightmares, so get this under control first thing. Do not assume that published pressures are correct- you need to verify the pressure by using a gauge.
  
Use a composition gasket that compresses to 0.039" to 0.041". With the zero deck of the block, this will put the piston crown at 0.039" to 0.041" from the underside of the cylinder head with the piston at TDC. This establishes your "squish" dimension at 0.039" to 0.041", which will optimize the motor for detonation-free operation on pump gas.
+
Run a nylon or copper line from the carburetor inlet back to the firewall and up past the hood lip to the cowl of the truck. On the cowl, temporarily mount a mechanical fuel pressure gauge (0-15 psi) so that you can view it through the windshield as you drive. Regulate fuel pressure down to 5 to 5-1/2 psi.  
  
 +
=====Steam holes=====
 +
The 400 block will require that you drill steam holes in the heads. Any manufacturer you buy from will drill them for you before they ship the heads to you. Install the heads with a head gasket that is designed for installation on a 400 block because the gaskets will also have steam holes in them from the manufacturer. Here is [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Drilling_steam_holes_in_smallblock_Chevy_heads '''more info'''].
  
 +
Use a composition gasket that compresses to 0.039" to 0.041". With the zero deck of the block, this will put the piston crown at 0.039" to 0.041" from the underside of the cylinder head with the piston at TDC. This establishes your "squish" dimension at 0.039" to 0.041", which will optimize the motor for detonation-free operation on pump gas.
  
'''Here's one I put together for a nice little street cruiser motor running on cheapo pump gas.'''
+
===Street cruiser running on cheapo pump gas===
I might be thinkin':
+
 
*375-400 horsepower, 425+ lbs/ft of torque with 9.0:1 static compression ratio.
 
*375-400 horsepower, 425+ lbs/ft of torque with 9.0:1 static compression ratio.
 
*Stock converter
 
*Stock converter
*Mild cam (204-212 intake duration @0.050", 110 LSA)
+
*Mild cam (204-212 degrees intake duration @ 0.050" lift, 110 LSA)
*RPM intake
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*Edelbrock Performer RPM intake
*750 carb
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*750cfm  carb
*1 5/8" long-tube headers  
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*1-5/8" long-tube headers  
*3.50 rear gear.
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*Around 3.50:1 rear gear  
Just a real nice cruiser.
+
  
I really, really like these heads. They're inexpensive and they '''''work'''''.
+
*[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/RHS12407/ RHS heads] (one bare head). They're inexpensive and they work good.  
*This is for one bare head: [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/RHS12407/].
+
*Then use one [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...oductinfo/8511/ valve kit] (fills 2 heads).
*Then buy one valve kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...oductinfo/8511/].
+
*One [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ctinfo/42151-8/ guide plate kit] (fills 2 heads).
*One guide plate kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ctinfo/42151-8/].
+
*And one [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/134-7101/ rocker stud kit] (fills 2 heads).
*And one rocker stud kit (fills 2 heads): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...tinfo/134-7101/].
+
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110315-10/ '''Here's the cam'''] (installed retarded 2 degrees), also see [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...info/110315-10/ '''this'''].
*Here's the cam (installed retarded 2 degrees): [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-110315-10/],
+
*[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/ Roller lifters], or
'''-OR-'''
+
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/91164/ '''these'''].
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...info/110315-10/].
+
*Use a Howards [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/94402/ composite distributor gear, it will outlast a bronze gear 3 to 1.
*And here are the roller lifters: [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRS-91164N/],
+
'''-OR-'''
+
[http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/91164/].
+
*Use a Howards composite distributor gear (will outlast a bronze gear 3 to 1): [http://www.competitionproducts.com/...ductinfo/94402/].
+
  
 +
====Results====
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
:'''RPM HP TQ'''
 
*2000 148 390
 
*2000 148 390
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*6000 355 310
 
*6000 355 310
  
 +
===400 SBC with Vortec heads===
 +
This combo is best at building a lot of torque in the 3,500 rpm range. L31 heads on a 406 will not lend themselves to top end hp, so use them where they work the best. On a 400 ci engine that will be to make biottom end and midrange torque.
  
I took this directly from a response on a thread where a rodder wanted to use a 400 block and L31 heads....
+
*Keith Black hypereutectic pistons, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/ p/n KB168-030].
I would advise against max hp in favor of building for max torque in the 3,500 rpm range. L31 heads on a 406 will not lend themselves to high hp, so I would use them where they fit best, low rpm torque. I'd use Keith Black hypers, #KB168-030, hung on Scat Pro Stock 5.7" rods. These rods are clearanced for the cam right out of the box. Minimum clearancing may be necessary at the pan rail for the big end of the rods.
+
*Scat Pro Stock 5.7" rods. These rods are clearanced for the cam right out of the box. Minimum clearancing may be necessary at the pan rail for the big end of the rods.
+
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700P/
+
  
6.0 rods get up into the oil ring land and I do not advise more complexity and more things to go wrong than you need in an engine build like this, particularly for a beginner. With nominal +/- 66cc heads (production heads usually pour larger than published data), these pistons, with a 22cc D-cup will produce 9.6:1 static compression ratio. An added benefit is the tall 1.433" compression height, meaning less block deck to cut off to reach a target squish of 0.035" to 0.045".
+
6" rods can cause the wrist pin to get up into the oil ring land. This adds a little more complexity and more things to go wrong than if you were to use a 5.7" rod.  
 +
 
 +
With nominal +/- 66cc heads (production head combustion chamber volumes are often larger than published data), these 22cc D-cup pistons will produce 9.6:1 static compression ratio. An added benefit is the tall 1.433" compression height, meaning less block deck to cut off to reach a target squish of 0.035" to 0.045".
  
 
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030/
 
*http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-KB168-030/
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*[[Valve train points to check]]
 
*[[Valve train points to check]]
 
*[[Quench]]
 
*[[Quench]]
 
+
*[[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]]
 +
*[[Drilling steam holes in smallblock Chevy heads]]
 +
*[[Camshaft install tips and tricks]]
 +
*[[Computer dyno simulation and engine building software]]
 +
[[Category:General hotrodding]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]
 
[[Category:Engine]]

Revision as of 16:08, 19 December 2012

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